0 votes
In reply to: ERROR CODE F-3 F2

F3 E2 error code is indication of a water temperature sensor (NTC) error, or heating circuit failure.
Check the water temperature sensor and check connections to the water temperature sensor.

0 votes
In reply to: ERROR CODE F-3 F2

That is an NTC (water temp sensor) failure. The NTC sensors themselves are not very common to go bad. What I find to be the most common issue is where the harness is zip tied to the outer tub you will get a break in the wire. This can cause the problem to be intermittent as well. I would first removed the connector from the main control board and OHM through the wiring all the back to the NTC. If you have an open circuit you can go directly to to the sensor and test it. If the sensor checks ok then you know you have a break in the wiring. I usually just tug on the wiring and you will usually find the break. If the wiring and sensor both check ok then you will be looking at a CCU (central control unit) issue. Hope this helps.

0 votes

water pump is pumping all the water out only one time did give me code f 71

  • Guest answered 11 years ago
0 votes

Sometimes the flapper valve in the pump which is activated by the drain solenoid
can be loose on its shaft and not open all the way. In return giving you intermittent not complete pump out.
Also check the inlet strainer in the pump sump area to see if there is fine plastic wrap covering the
opening screen for the pump thus reducing water flow to the unit.

0 votes

That is a Frigidaire built refrigerator. The ice maker original part # 243297603 runs to a #243297606 . It looks like a screw in the front middle and pulls forward. It is a Frigidaire bottom-mount, which are made by LG. There is a single tab at the top of the I/M to slide it all forward. LG/Samsung units we are familiar with. (12VDC) Hope this helps

0 votes

Check your filter to see if it is plugged, if all the water does not drain out to let the pressure switch sense that all of the water is out of the tub, it will stay into slow spin until all the the water is drained by the pump. If the filter is plugged it will never drain out the water and in return stay in slow spin. Look at this first and email us back to let us know so we can proceed to the next step and correct your issues. Matt Ace technician

0 votes

Here are the substitute parts needed to complete your repair. Hope this helps. Matt Ace technician
http://www.savemoreonparts.com/catalogsearch/result/?q=+6750C-0005P+
http://www.savemoreonparts.com/thermistor-assembly-ptc-35374.html

0 votes

See below diagnostic a error codes .

FAILURE/ERROR DISPLAY CODES
Before proceeding with any corrective action, perform the following
steps to enter the Diagnostics mode:
1. To recall last failure code, if not displayed, press the Cancel key to
place the range in an idle state.
2. Press the Cancel and Start keys in the following order:
CANCEL, CANCEL, START.
3. Verify the error code displayed on the control by observing for
longer than 1 minute. If the error returns, use the applicable
procedure listed below for the actual error code that is displayed.
FAILURE
(Leftmost
2 Clock
Digits)
ERROR
(Rightmost
2 Clock
Digits)
MESSAGE/DESCRIPTION
SUGGESTED CORRECTIVE ACTION PROCEDURE
F0
Default
E0 No failure
F1
Internal
E0
E1
E2
E3
E4
E9

PROCEDURE: Before proceeding, perform steps 1 through 3 above chart to enter the
Diagnostics mode.
A. Unplug range or disconnect power.
B. Replace the display board.
C. Plug in range or reconnect power.
FAILURE
(Leftmost
2 Clock
Digits)
ERROR
(Rightmost
2 Clock
Digits)
MESSAGE/DESCRIPTION
SUGGESTED CORRECTIVE ACTION PROCEDURE
F1
Internal
E5
E6
E7
E8

PROCEDURE: Before proceeding, perform steps 1 through 3 above chart to enter the
Diagnostics mode.
A. Unplug range or disconnect power.
B. Replace the power board.
C. Plug in range or reconnect power.
F2
Keypad
E0
E1
STUCK KEY (shorted key)
KEYPAD DISCONNECT or KEYPAD DISCONNECTED
PROCEDURE: Before proceeding, perform steps 1 through 3 above chart to enter the
Diagnostics mode.
A. Unplug range or disconnect power.
B. Check that the keypad is firmly connected.
C. Plug in range or reconnect power and observe for longer than 1 minute.
D. If error remains then go to step E.
E. Unplug range or disconnect power.
F. Replace keypad.
G. Plug in range or reconnect power and observe for longer than 1 minute.
H. If error remains then go to step I.
I. Unplug range or disconnect power.
J. Replace display board.
K. Plug in range or reconnect power.
TECH SHEET – DO NOT DISCARD PAGE 5
FOR SERVICE TECHNICIAN’S USE ONLY PART NO. 9761387
FAILURE
(Leftmost
2 Clock
Digits)
ERROR
(Rightmost
2 Clock
Digits)
MESSAGE/DESCRIPTION
SUGGESTED CORRECTIVE ACTION PROCEDURE
F3
Sensors
E0
E1
E2
E4
E5
E6
E7
MAIN SENSOR OPEN (top oven sensor opened)
MAIN SENSOR SHORT or MAIN SENSOR SHORTED
(top oven sensor shorted)
MEAT PROBE SHORTED
BOTTOM SENSOR OPEN (bottom oven sensor open)
LOWER SENSOR SHORT or BOTTOM SENSOR SHORT
(bottom oven sensor shorted)
WD SENSOR OPEN (warming drawer sensor open)
WD SENSOR SHORTED (warming drawer sensor shorted)
PROCEDURE: Before proceeding, perform steps 1 through 3 above chart on page 4 to
enter the Diagnostics mode.
A. Unplug range or disconnect power.
B. Open the back panels and make sure the indicated temperature sensor is
plugged in.
If it is not, plug it in to the connector and go to step I.
If it is plugged in, go to step C.
C. Check connector P3 on the power board. Make sure it is plugged in and
fully seated.
If it is not, make the proper connection and go to step I.
If it is already properly connected, go to step D.
D. Visually inspect the wires between P3 on the power board and the indicated
temperature sensor. Make sure the wires are not cut or pinched. If the wires
appear to be intact, unplug the P3 connector on the power board. Go to step E.
E. Measure indicated temperature sensor resistance value (measure between
appropriate P3 connector pins). For the following sensors, the resistance value
should read:
Main Oven Sensor Between 931 and 2869 Ω.
(Approx. 1080 Ω at room temp).
Lower Oven Sensor Between 931 and 2869 Ω.
(Approx. 1080 Ω at room temp).
Warm Drawer Sensor Between 1,500 and 319,000 Ω.
(Approx. 119,420 Ω at room temp).
Meat Probe Sensor Between 1,300 and 103,000 Ω.
(Approx. 59,000 Ω at room temp).
(Insert meat probe into meat probe jack located
inside the oven cavity prior to reading resistance.)
Measure any P3 connector pin to chassis. Resistance value should read “open”.
If it does not, replace sensor harness. Repeat step E.
If the indicated temperature sensor does not meet these requirements, go to
step F.
If the temperature sensor does meet the requirements, go to step I.
F. For MAIN, LOWER and WARM DRAWER sensors:
Replace appropriate temperature sensor. Repeat step E.
If the requirements are not met, replace sensor harness. Repeat step E.
If the requirements are still not met, go to step G.
For MEAT PROBE sensor:
Replace meat probe sensor. Repeat step E.

0 votes
In reply to: Not Cooling

There aren’t many working/replaceable parts in these so if they all checked out, it’s very likely that the drain line was the main cause of the problem. We always advise the customer to monitor and let us know if it happens again. It may be perfectly fine after.

0 votes

Gary, that door lock is a DG66-00017A and we unfortunately, do not stock it. Hopefully you have a vendor or parts distributor to get it from. Let us know if there’s more we can do.

0 votes
In reply to: Loud in spin

That blower assembly could definitely be the cause. I’d take it apart again and get in there to physically verify if that’s where the noise is coming from. Those blades can wear down over time, have lint build up, etc. If you do need it, the part number is 131775600 and I’ll add the link for it below.

0 votes

Kraig, this sounds like a lid switch, and for this model it’s a 3949247. Fairly common for us to stock but everyone is different, so I hope you do have it to take with you! I’ll also add the link for purchase and pricing as well as an installation video. Good luck!

0 votes

Fred, this is one of the most common board’s we replace: WR51X10101. I’m adding a couple links for you to access the information you need.

0 votes

I have run across this before and have had some success notching the end of the drain tube. Whether it be a duckbill or flapper, it seems to help. GE had a similar issue with their refrigerators and offered the same shorter tube with instructions, so apparently this is the same product design.

0 votes

You want to be up front with the customer, advise them that water has penetrated not only the tub seal, but worse, it has ruined the spin bearings and probably displaced much of the oil in the transmission. The unit is not worth the repair especially if it is over 8 years old.

0 votes
In reply to: I/M not working

I’ll add the link below so you can see what you’d pay to purchase it (p# DA97-00258E), as well as a video showing diagnostic and installation information as well. Hope this helps!

0 votes

We have had a few of these with the same symptoms. You have a shorted low voltage component. Start unplugging the components individually Evaporator motor, auger motor and see if the lights stop flickering. We had one with a shorted auger motor one time and the other time a shorted evaporator motor . It will take a little time but will be an accurate diagnosis. Matt Ace technician

0 votes
In reply to: Not cooling correctly

The refrigerator/freezer temp control we use is a SUP brand: SC1002 . Unfortunately we don’t stock it, so hopefully your local vendor does, or you can order it in. Good luck!

0 votes

We have also done research on products that last more than 12 years without major repairs . Without being biased we have determined that Speed Queen seems meet our guidelines. There are a few reasons why:
1) Most Speed Queen products do not have control boards or a lot of electronics that can go bad.
2) With most units having manual cycles, there are half the mechanical parts that can go bad.
3) The suspension and tub are built to last. That is why Speed Queen gives a lifetime or 20 year warranty on them.

The bottom line is they are built to last and of course that is built into the price. A basic whirlpool washer cost is around $475-$550. And the Speed Queen with the same basic cycles is around $975. So you can pay me now or pay me later. I hope the helps. Just about all of our 15 technicians have Speed Queen units.

0 votes

Harley that motor assembly is DC96-01112E and I’ll add a link for it as well. Good luck!

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