All Answers

i would check wiring diagram. also is this on touch control. does diagram show a float switch?? if no than either broken wire from control to valve or bad control..

You’re right on the part number, and I just check out stock, we’re temporarily out, so I’ll add the pricing link but you’ll have to check with your vendors on availability. Sorry about that. Those heaters are common culprits, and if the venting is clear and the other components have been checked and verified, it’s the most likely answer. Hope this helps!

Kraig, the console would be my first guess as well. Part # is 154639208 and I’ll add pricing info below. If you have one to take that would be great, but you may have to explain it’ll be Monday or Tuesday if your local vendor closes before 5 on the weekend. Good luck on this!

We normally clear them while there if possible or have the customer defrost them for 24hrs and then monitor them from there. Can also install a copper or bi metal down the drain and that may help keep it from repeating but normally clearing it or defrosting it works just fine. Hope this helps!

Fred, this is going to sound too easy, but did you check the drain hose/line to the disposal? Sometimes they get kinked and jammed up under there when a new disposal is installed, and then not straightened out and put back in a proper placement. It sounds like some water is getting through and then the pressure is causing the dishwasher to stop draining when it can’t finish. Let us know if not, we’ll further diagnose with you.

Sounds like an older dishwasher, check the sisterliness chart for contacts that open at that point.
It may be a hi-temp wash or rinse and require the water temperature to close a thermostat in line with the timer motor to advance past that spot.
May also be a bad heat element.

Pump part number is WH23X10013 and I’ll add a repair video that should be really similar to what you need. Hope this helps!

Sure Harley, part number is 8547174 and I’ll add the link for it below. Good luck on this!

They just slip out once the racks are out. I know DCS has a range that for self-cleaning you remove oven racks and support rails, but have never seen a Dacor that you have to do that. DCS has a bar that must drop to activate a switch that confirms racks have been removed so it will clean. Looking at wiring diagram for this range it doesn’t have that switch. The racks and the rack supports are out.

David, we do. Part # is 4317943 and I’ll add a link and video if necessary. Good luck on this!

THANKS FOR THE ANSWER I WILL LET YOU KNOW THE FIX IF THE CUSTOMER DECIDES TO REPAIR THE REFRIGERATOR.

TOM

Also if you replaced the thrust bearing it probably came with different size washers that fit under the c-clip. Just double check that the brake is getting fully released when the thrust bearing is pushing up on it and the basket is spinning freely. Usually if your brake pads are worn out the unit will screech pretty loud when the brake is engaged.

From the looking at the wiring diagram it the display pcb will send the 12vdc trigger voltage to the main control board which should be located on the back of the unit. The main control will then send the 120vac to the auger motor and inlet valves. I would say your likely on the right track with a bad relay. I cannot tell by the wiring diagram if there is an actual relay on the dispenser control board. Usually there is not. The only way to know for sure which board is bad would be checking to see if the dispenser board is sending the 12vdc trigger voltage to the main board. I would also check the wiring going into the freezer door at the bottom or under the hinge cover to make sure you dont have any broken wires. Hope this helps. Intermittent issues are always the toughest to track down.

I had one that brake pads wore down and then started squealing . I also had another one with noise at the end of the spin cycle, it was the brake assembly spring. Noise may only be duplicated with a full load of wet clothes.
Take the brake assembly apart, file down both ends of the spring where each coil ends. I also add a little grease on the ends. Other option is to replace the spring. If you take apart the bottom end of this washer apart without the brake tool.There is a spring inside that will cause bodily damage if you don’t disengage it to remove brake.

Yes, unfortunately it sounds like you need a new ice maker unit in there. Part # is 5303918277 and I’ll add a link and video to help you out with this.

James, most likely it is those surface burner knobs malfunctioning. Part # is EBZ37189611 and I’ll add a purchase link below for you with pricing and availability.

Do you get an error code? Have you put it into diagnostics? Tech sheet should be on the front/left inside wall.
Drain pump may be clogged. Diagnostics would be a good start. It is likely a failure of the machine control, since it is supposed to be sensing the load size and determining the proper fill at the beginning of each cycle. It does not look like it is able to recognize the motor RPM’s, so if the RPS sensor is OK according to the tech sheet, then the control is bad.I would try looking for a video at ApplianceVideo.com. Here is the link https://www.appliancevideo.com/
Just type in your symptom and look for a free video.

That temperature control is a 5304421256 for your model, and I’ll add the purchase link below for you. Good luck on this!

Fred, you have this correct! Good luck.

That drain pump/motor assembly is a 4681EA1007G and the drain hose is 5215ER2002G. I’ll add the links for them below. Good luck on this repair!