All Answers

Harley, that evaporator assembly is DA96-00020Q and it is something we stock for purchase. I’m also adding a repair video for you to see it done, should help you out!

Look at the harness light connector and make sure all harnesses are plugged in tight. I had the same issue and the light harness controls the door alarm. Since the door alarm is the third wire on the switch the board didn’t sense the door closed when I powered up. I called the customer back after looking at the wiring diagram and had her unplug the unit, wait, and restart. Problem solved. Reboot the blue screen you can’t see.

David, not a problem at all! That Dispenser Assembly is DA97-08519A and I’ll add the link for it, as well as a video if you’re having any trouble accessing it. Hope this helps!

That part number is for the door latch assembly, and you’re right in bringing to my attention that it’s not currently listed in our parts as available. I’ll see if I can work to get it added. In the meantime, we occasionally have to order from other vendors/websites when all else fails or explain to the customer they may need to go through factory service or can contact Samsung directly to see if they’d be willing to send the part to you.

James, I’ll add the links for you, glad you figured it out!

Idler Pulley: DC96-00882C
Belt: 6602-001655

Gary, we do. I’ll add the info below for you.

Brake Case: DD94-01005A | Case Sensor: DD94-01006A

Grounded element possible , vent clogged, lint filter clogged. Just had one last week. I would also verify that the separate blower motor is indeed being energized as it should, and not just the heater and drive motor. This one has 2 separate motors that must function for hot air to flow through the load. One other think to check is the front and rear drum seals make sure they are in place and not worn may be grabbing cloths. I would try looking for a videos at ApplianceVideo.com. Here is the link https://www.appliancevideo.com/ Just type in your symptom and look for a free video.

I believe you are missing the “D” in your model number.
If it’s the dryer then it’s quite possibly the rear bearing. We find it a practice to change the front bearing (just the top piece) and the belt because of the extra strain a bad rear bearing puts on them. You can use the Frigidaire parts because the rear bearing comes with the whole kit. This is 5303281153 rear bearing. 5303937139 front bearing. 137292700 belt.
If it’s the washer, well then, your customer may slightly smell burnt rubber. It should be just change the belt.WH07X10009. I would try looking for a video at ApplianceVideo.com. Here is the link https://www.appliancevideo.com/
Just type in your symptom and look for a free video.

Does it provide an error code? Have you put it into diagnostics? Tech sheet should be on the front/left inside wall.
Drain pump may be clogged. Diagnostics would be a good start. If you cannot find the technician diagnostic sheet It is likely a failure of the machine control, since it is supposed to be sensing the load size and determining the proper fill at the beginning of each cycle. It does not look like it is able to recognize the motor RPM’s, so if the RPS sensor is OK according to the tech sheet, then the control is bad.

Fred, I would suggest changing that rotor bolt assembly out if it’s not staying tight. Maybe even adhere some thread lock to the new one you install. Part number is 4040FR4051C but we unfortunately do not have a link for purchase. Hopefully you can get it from your vendor. Good luck!

We actually don’t use many over the counter products if that’s what you’re looking to recommend. We typically advise the customer to run empty cycles with either two capfuls of vegetable oil or you can also use distilled white vinegar as well. Both will cut down the suds/dish soap and clear the unit and it’s components of the foreign agent so they can continue to use regular dishwasher detergent.

Harley, we have come across this before where the motor pulley is actually what’s shredding the belt, you could keep replacing the belt but it’ll continue to get torn up. I’d suggest replacing the motor assembly and reinstall a new belt. You should be good to go from there. Part# is DC93-00101B & it’s also linked below here for you to check out.

The error code you are getting means:
“Low-level water error. When Low Level is detected to cause Error even after the water supply resumes after Low Level is detected for the 1st time Low Level Sensor terminal not connected, Possible defect : Low Level Sensor , Main PBA.”

Enter into service test mode

Press the ‗Heavy‘ + ‗Delicate‘ + ‗Power‘ buttons at the same time for two seconds to enter Service Inspection Mode.
All LEDs are displayed for the first two seconds and then Software-Ver. It will be indicated Binary Code using ‗Wash +
Dry + Clean + Child Lock‘ LED.
You can change the mode by pressing the Normal button once more. If press the Normal button in any mode, mode will
be changed to next mode.
If ‗Heavy + Quick‘ LED, ‗Heavy‘ LED or ‗Heavy + Delicate + Quick‘ LED error occur, enter the Service Inspection Mode
after resolving problem.
Service Inspection Mode is described in the following table. When you activate this inspection mode, the door must be closed.
No.1 ‘Quick’ LED Inlet Valve
Flow Meter
Low Level
Sensor
Water Supply
Error
Low Level Water
Error
‘Normal’ +
‘Heavy’ +
‘Delicate’ LED
If Door is open, ‘Delicate’ + ‘Quick’ LED will blink.
Water is supplying af ter low level S/W is detected. If low level S/W is high, Draining at f irst.
If water is not supplied, Water Supply Error (‘Quick’ LED) will blink.
When water level is low af ter water is supplied, Low Level Water Error (‘Normal’ + ‘Heavy’
+ ‘Quick’ LED) will blink.
When Turbidity problem is detected af ter water is supplied, ‘Normal’ + ‘Heavy’ + ‘Delicate’
LED will blink.
If all functions in this mode are completed, ‘Wash’ LED will blink.
No.2 ‘Delicate’
LED
Circulation
Motor
A nozzle does
not inject water.
If Low Level S/W is detected before Circulation Motor is operating, ‘Sanitize’ LED will blink.
No.3 ‘Delicate’ +
‘Quick’ LED
Circulation
Motor
Heater
Thermistor
Heater Error If Low Level S/W is detected before Circulation Motor is operating, ‘Sanitize’ LED will blink.
Circulation Motor and Heater will be operated.
When the temperature is 60℃ or above, the heater is turned of f and ‘Wash’ LED will blink.
If Heater or Thermistor have problems, the Heater Error (‗Heavy‘ + Delicate‘ LED) will blink.
Dispenser will operate during 2 minutes and 10 seconds only one time.
No.4 ‘Heavy’ +
‘Quick’ LED
Fan Motor
Dispensor
The Fan Motor
does not work.
Operate Vent Motor and check whether Rinse aid is f illed.
If there is not rinse in Dispenser, Rinse Ref illed light is ON.
No.5 ‘Heavy’ +
‘Delicate’
LED
Overf low
Sensor
Over level water
error
Water is supplied until Over Level Water Error (‘Heavy’ + ‘Quick’ LED) is blinked.
If Over Level Water Error occurs, overf low sensor is OK.
No.6 ‘Heavy’ +
‘Delicate’ +
‘Quick’ LED
Drain Pump
Low Level
Sensor
Drain Error Drain pump will work until low level is detected.
If Low level is not detected af ter 60 seconds, Drain Error (‘Delicate’ LED) will blink.
No.7 ‘Normal’ +
‘Quick’ LED
Inlet Valve
Circulation
Motor
Fan Motor
Drain Pump
Heater
Operate each operating part when the button is pressed. (See the below)
When the ‘Quick’ button is pressed, it toggles between Inlet Valve On (‘Quick’ LED On) ->
Of f (‘Quick’ LED Of f ).
When ‗Heavy’ button is pressed, it works Circulation Motor On (‘Heavy’ LED On) -> Of f
(‘Heavy’ LED Of f ) -> Fan Motor On (‘Heavy’ LED On) -> Of f (‘Heavy’ LED Of f ), Drain
Pump On (‘Heavy’ LED On) -> Of f (‘Heavy’ LED Of f )
When ‘Delicate’ button is pressed, it woks Heater On (‘Delicate’ LED On during 2 seconds).
When a dif ferent button is pressed during individual operation of the operating part,
operating part is stopped and the applicable operation f or the pressed button‘s f unction will
start.

I think you are referring to a thermister and it is not the same as a defrost terminator. I would manually advance the defrost timer into the defrost cycle. Then check for amprege around the defrost heater wire, if you have no amprege then ohm out the heater for continuity. If the heater ohms out good replaced the timer and thermister.

There may be a thermal reset switch. Look for a brown or red button on top of a thermal limit switch. As far as the F4 code, the fault codes may have to be manually removed. If it is the new relay board you may have reset either upper or lower, and you will see a button on the board to switch.

Not a problem at all, links are below!

Most oven’s cooling fans are operated by a reset-able thermostat, once the thermostat reaches a certain temperature it will power the cooling fan and once the oven cools down the fan will shut off. So as long as the oven continues to operate I wouldn’t be to concerned with the fan shutting off.

Hi Matthew, fortunately your model number did not come up for part research. Please make sure it is written down corrrectly and resubmit. Off the top of my head, (without having model number) it sounds like the timer motor could actually be bad, some Kenmore models have a separate switch that controls the cool down cycles. If it does have one of these switches, turn cool down to off and test timer on the same cycle as before and see if it shuts down when it gets to the cool down stage… I will be awaiting your response!
Tony-AceTech52

Gary, that PCB Board number is EBR32268015. It is also linked here for you. Good luck on this!

We sure do. Information is below and I’ll add a purchase link.

Thermostat/Fuse: 35001087
Thermistor: 35001191