All Answers

E61 is a stuck or failed heated relay on the main board. Since you already put a board in it I would check the heater ohm. I believe you have a grounded heater to unit case. I have seen this happen before two different times. 95% chance the heater grounded is your issue. Let us know the outcome. Here is a video link for the E61 error https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p0BFUtJzV9s

I agree on your diagnoses but still run it through diagnostics. Be sure that the drain pump is not drawing excessive amps, or the control could be compromised.

ACTIVATION OF AUTOMATIC DIAGNOSTIC
TEST MODE
1. Be sure the washer is in standby mode (plugged in with all indicators
off; or with only the Clothes Clean or Done indicator on).
2. Select any one button (except POWER, START, and STOP) and follow
the steps below, using the same button (remember the button):
Press/hold
3 seconds ➔ Release for
3 seconds ➔ Press/hold
3 seconds ➔ Release for
3 seconds ➔ Press/hold
3 seconds
➔If this test mode has been entered successfully, all indicators on the
console are illuminated for 5 seconds with 88 showing in the
Estimated Time Remaining two-digit display.
➔If indicators do not display as described above, the
press/hold/release procedure above may not have been performed
within the time frame necessary for successful entry. Repeat step 2
to ensure this was not the cause. If still unsuccessful, see
Diagnostic: Unsuccessful Entry, page 3.
3. The program then checks for saved fault codes:
➔If there are saved fault codes, see Diagnostic: Saved Fault Codes,
page 3.
➔If there are no saved fault codes, all indicators on the console will
momentarily turn off, then turn back on with 88 displayed. After
5 seconds, the Automatic test, below, begins.
DIAGNOSTIC: Automatic
Performs a five-minute automatic test with water functions to check major
washer functions (door can be open). Press the same button used in step
2 above to advance through automatic test steps.
NOTE: Basket must be floating in order to agitate. Step C1 must be
allowed to complete before advancing to step C5.
Two-Digit
Indicator Machine Function Recommended Procedure

C0 Slow spin to 23 rpm. If no spin go to Manual: Motor,
Spin, page 5.
C1
Warm water fills through
Fresh and Detergent
valves, then Fresh valve
until basket floats
(disengages); then
washer continues filling
through Fresh and
Detergent valves to
minimum water level.
If no water or fill temperature is
wrong, go to Manual: Water
Valves, page 4.
If basket does not float or
disengage, determine cause of
friction.
C2
Cold water fills through
Bleach valve for
10 seconds.
If no water in bleach cup go to
Manual: Water Valves,
page 4.
C3
Hot water fills through
Fabric Softener valve for
10 seconds.
NOTE: Step will occur
but no water can be
dispensed with models
that do not have a fabric
softener valve.
If no water in fabric softener
cup go to Manual: Water
Valves, page 4.
C4
Warm water fills through
Detergent valve for
10 seconds.
If no water in detergent cup go
to Manual: Water Valves,
page 4.
C5 Agitate for 15 seconds. If no wash action go to
Manual: Motor, Agitate; page 5.
C6 Recirculate for
10 seconds.
If water is not being
re-circulated go to
Manual: Pumps, page 4.

Sounds like a main control board. The water level is controlled by the main board. Should have a tech sheet inside the machine in front that will outline the diagnostics. DIAGNOSTIC: Manual
EnterManual Diagnostic testmode, above. Three-digit display
shows 000, and Add A Garment indicator LED is flashing.
NOTE: If there is no activity (button press, cycle select)
within 5 minutes, the control automatically exits
Diagnostic mode and enters standby mode.
Manual:Water Valves (SeeManual Activation, above)
To check FRESH valve select and press the following:
WHITES or EXTREME DIRT Ô START/PAUSE (turns on
Fresh valve, cycle indicator flashes) Ô WASH TEMP/
RINSE TEMP (selecting hot/cold = hot valve; warm/
warm = hot & cold valve; warm/cold = cold valve)
Ô START/PAUSE (turns off Fresh valve, cycle indicator
is steady on).
To check DETERGENT valve select or press the following:
SUPER WASH or HEAVY DUTYÔ START/PAUSE
(turns on Detergent valve, cycle indicator flashes)Ô
WASH TEMP/RINSE TEMP (selecting hot/cold =
hot valve; warm/warm = hot & cold valve; warm/
Detergent valve, cycle indicator is steady on).
To check FABRIC SOFTENER valve select or press
the following:
NORMAL Ô START/PAUSE (turns on Fabric Softener
valve, cycle indicator flashes)ÔWASH TEMP/RINSE TEMP
(selecting hot/cold = hot valve; warm/warm = hot &
cold valve; warm/cold = cold valve) Ô START/PAUSE
(turns off Fabric Softener valve, cycle indicator is steady on).
To check BLEACH valve select or press the following:
DARKS AND COLORS or COLORS/TOWELS Ô
START/PAUSE (turns on Bleach valve with cold water,
cycle indicator flashes)Ô START/PAUSE (turns off
Bleach valve, cycle indicator is steady on).
NOTE: Washer can only fill cold through Bleach valve.
Manual: Pumps (See Manual Activation, at left)
Select CLEAN WASHER or DRAIN & SPIN cycle.
Press and release:
START/PAUSE Ô Turns on recirculation pump,
cycle indicator is steady on.
Repeat Ô Turns off recirculation pump,
cycle indicator is steady on.
Repeat Ô Turns on drain pump, cycle
indicator flashes.
Repeat Ô Turns off drain pump, cycle
indicator is steady on.

I Just did a DBVH810ghoww with the same problem. I cleaned the duct and blower housing and replaced the gas valve coils and it is operating correctly.

If you pulled the common connector and it ran at 50 RPM , you know the MCB and motor are both good, must be the machine control board. That’s an LCD panel, if you can get it.

Whirlpool says this is a non-serviceable microwave and there are no
parts available for it. These came with new only replacement warranties.
You might want to give one of the microwave specialty parts supply
like Global (800-325-8488) or AMI (800-442-3600)

Hi. I am not able to find your exact model that you are working on. From the parts break down on the dispenser it looks like you remove it by releasing tabs that hold it in place around the edges. It does not show any screws to remove. I found a video that will show how to do this on a similar LG refrigerator. I hope this helps!

Help anyone?

What is the freezer temperatures ? Low ice production can be caused by above normal temperatures you should have zero to minus five degrees in the unit to harvest properly. Check your temperatures and email us back for the next step.

Here is the diagnostic tests you can do to troubleshoot this issue.
ERC Quick Test
The process requires two people. To access the program, one person should stand at the oven, while
the other is located at the circuit breaker. The person at the circuit breaker turns off the breaker and
then the person at the oven depresses and holds the cooktime keypad. The person at the circuit
breaker then turns the breaker back on. The display will show the 4-character identification code of the
ERC. Example (1180)
You have 30 seconds between each test mode.
Note: if unit shows time of day start procedure over again.
Test 1
Push and hold convection bake
Bake element and convection fan activate.
Test 2
Push and hold Standard Bake
Bake element activate.
Test 3
Push and hold Pure Convection
Convection fan and convection element activate.
Test 4
Push and hold broil
Broil element activate. (on gas units – ignitor will activate.)
Test 5
Push and hold convection broil (select models)
Broil element and convection fan activate.
Test 6
Momentary push timer 2
Audible tone will sound.
Test 7
Push and hold stop time
Cooling fan activate.
Test 8
Momentary push clock
All LEDs will light up. Push + or – key pad. LEDs wil display numbers
Example: 1111, 2222, 3333, 4444 etc.
Test 9
Last test door open, push and hold cook time for 10 seconds
Self clean latch motor activate. Door latch will complete one cycle.
The test will end and ERC will display the time of day.
NOTE:
Complete all tests within 30 seconds – otherwise you will see a failure code (F-0: Stuck key pad) displayed
on the ERC.
Elecronic Diagnostics Page 4
OUTPUT VOLTAGE CHECK POINTS
ON ERC/CLOCK CONTROL
All Ranges And Wall Ovens
When programming the oven into a cooking cycle, you first select the desired mode on the
touch membrane. Pressing this key sends a message to the ERC/Clock control, which in
turn triggers 24 Volts DC to be sent to the main relay board through the connective harness.
The desired relay (for example, Pure Convection) closes and distributes power to the
desired components. In order to correctly diagnose this sequence you need a volt meter
set on DC voltage. Drop the Bezel/Control panel down thus exposing the ERC/Clock and
related wiring. Dropping the control panel down will expose the back side of the ERC/Clock
control and main wiring harness. The connective harness will have 16 pins. Using a voltmeter
take the test leads and insert into the backside of the main wiring harness
To take a voltage reading using the ERC connection chart below:
1. Set the voltage meter to DC voltage
2. Insert the test lead into the backside of the main harness
(plugged into the backside of the ERC control.)
For example: if bake isn’t working:
a) Insert the test leads into connections (2-5)
b) Program the unit into the bake cycle
The meter should read 22-24 Volts DC
TEST POINT 16
ERC CONNECTOR
B etw een Pins R elay Should R ead
1-3 DBL 24 VOLTS
2-5 BAKE 24 VOLTS
2-6 BROIL 24 VOLTS
2-7 CONVECTION
ELEMENT 24 VOLTS
2-9 CONVECTION
FAN 24 VOLTS
1-11 DOOR MOTOR
(LATCH MOTOR) 24 VOLTS
1-13 COOLING FAN 24 VOLTS
TEST POINT 1
Elecronic Diagnostics Page 5
1. Check incoming voltage. Appliances must have 240 volts with a neutral.
2. Check voltage at main relay board at L1 and N just in front of the low voltage
transformer. Should read 120 volts. Refer to picture for voltage test points.
3. If you do not have the voltage at L1 and N check wires and connections at
terminal block.
4. If you have 120 volts at L1 and N then check voltage at main ERC harness
connection coming off ERC clock control. Refer to picture for test points 14
and 15. Should have 22-24 volts AC input to ERC/clock control.
5. If you do not have 22-24 volts AC, suspect the main relay board or main
harness.
L1 test point
NO CLOCK DISPLAY
All Ranges And Wall Ovens
1
**Prior to going out on this call – make sure that the customer has re-set the circuit breaker.
Elecronic Diagnostics Page 6
1. Check the incoming voltage to the unit. There should be 240 volts with a neutral.
2. Check power at the Dbl (double line relay) from (Com) to neutral. There should be 120 volts
incoming to the Dbl. Refer to picture for testpoints. If voltage is ok, move to step 3.
3. Program the unit into a bake cycle. Check voltage across Dbl (double line relay) (N.O. side)
to BA relay for 240 volts. Refer to picture for test points. If no voltage replace relay board. If
you have 240 volts go to step 4.
4. Check the HTC (high temp cutout) for open circuit. HTC is a NC switch. The HTC is located
by the latch assembly and has a re-settable switch. (see picture)
NO BAKE
All Ranges And Wall Ovens
Reset Button
Elecronic Diagnostics Page 7
1. Check the incoming voltage to the unit. There should be 240 volts with a neutral.
2. Check power at the Dbl (double line relay) from (Com) to neutral. There should be 120
volts incoming to the Dbl. Refer to picture for testpoints. If voltage is ok, move to step 3.
3. Program the unit into a broil cycle. Check voltage across the DBL (double line relay) N.O.
output side and BR relay (Broil relay) For 240 Volts. Refer to picture for test points.
If you have voltage present go to step 4.
If you do not have voltage replace relay board.
4. Check the HTC (high temp cutout) for open circuit. HTC is a NC switch. The HTC is
located next to the latch assembly and has a re-settable switch. (see picture)
NO BROIL
All Electric/Dual-Fuel Ranges And Wall Ovens
Re-set Button
There is also a user programmable option to set the cooling fan off temperature to
200, 300, 400 or 450 degrees.
To change the temperature:
1. Touch Broil pad – enter temp as 500 degrees or higher.
2. Push and hold Broil pad for 5 seconds – COOL will show in the ERC display
3. Adjust fan shut off temp with the +/- pad. (000 = 300 degrees, all other settings will
display temp).
4. To exit the mode – press cancel.
Recommended factory setting is 300 degrees
This will only work on EC, MC and PC ovens
Elecronic Diagnostics Page 8
1. Check the incoming voltage to the unit. There should be 240 volts with a neutral.
2. Program the unit into pure convection. Check power at the Dbl (double line relay) from
(Com) to neutral. There should be 120 volts incoming to the Dbl. Refer to picture for
test points. If voltage is ok, move to step 3.
3. Check voltage across the DBL (double line relay) NO output side and the CVL (convection
element relay)
for 240 volts. Refer to picture for test points. )
If you have voltage present move to step 4
If you do not have voltage replace relay board.
4. Check the HTC (high temp cutout) for open circuit. HTC is a NC switch. HTC is located by
the latch assembly and has a re-settable switch. (see picture)
Double line relay
Convection Element
Relay
PURE CONVECTION – NO HEAT
Wallovens, Dual Fuel and Electric Ranges
Re-set Button
Elecronic Diagnostics Page 9
1. Check input voltage to the light transformer at the primary side across terminal 1 and 5.
Should read 240 volts. (see picture) If you do not have 240 volts across 1 and 5, check
wiring back to the terminal block. If there is 240 volts present at 1 and 5 go to step 2.
(see picture)
HALOGEN OVEN LIGHTS
Electric and Dual Fuel Ranges, Wall Ovens
Step 1
2. Check voltage at the light transformer on the secondary side across terminal 6 and 8.
Should read 12 volts. If you do not have 12 volts present at terminal 6 and 8 replace light
transformer.
If you do have voltage present go to step 3.
Step 2
Step 3
4. Check voltage at OL1 on main relay board. Should have 12 volts present after OL1
relay closes. If you do not have voltage present recheck steps 1-3 or replace relay
board. If you do have voltage present Check wiring to light socket and light bulb.
OL1
1 5
6 10
1= 0V 5=240V
6 to 8 = 12 VAC
8 to 10 = 12 VAC
6 to 10 = 24 VAC
8
3. Check voltage from the main relay board at terminal N which is to the left of OL1 relay.
Should have 12 volts present at N all the time. If you do not have 12volts present re-check
steps 1 and 2 or replace light transformer. If you do not have 12 volts present go to step 4.
(see picture)
N
Elecronic Diagnostics Page 10
DOOR LATCH NOT RUNNING

Were any of the LED segments on the display flashing? This could indicate an error code depending on which segment is flashing. See diagnostic chart below.
RF263AEBP/XAA
RF263AEPN/XAA
RF263AERS/XAA
RF263AEWP/XAA
French Door Refrigeration
Self Diagnosis: Press the Pwr Freeze—Pwr
Cool buttons simultaneously for 8-12 seconds
(No sound when both buttons are pressed at
the same time) until the display quits blinking.
Release the buttons and read Fault Codes.
This will also cancel the Fault Mode created by
self-diagnosis at power up.
Forced Mode: Press the Pwr Freeze– Fridge
buttons simultaneously for 8-12 seconds
(No sound when both buttons are pressed
at the same time) until the display beeps
and goes blank.
Publication # tsRF263AE Revision Date 11/24/2010
Sealed System
Component Value Chart
Sales Mode, No Compressor Operation
Press Power Freeze & Freezer temp buttons
simultaneously for 3 sec ( you will hear a ―Ding
Dong‖) to remove or put into Sales Mode. When
in the Sales Mode the Display will show “OF” “OF”
Removing power will not cancel this mode.
Refrigerant Charge
R134a 5.64 oz.
Component Resistance Wattage Voltage
Freezer Defrost Heater 60Ω 240 120vac
Fridge Defrost Heater 120Ω 120 120vac
French Mullion Heater 1323Ω 10 120vac
Fill Tube Heater 1323Ω 10 120vac
Sensors 2.5kΩ-89kΩ N/A 1~4.5vdc
Fans N/A N/A 7~12vdc
Press Freezer button one
time at the Test Mode to
Force Compressor High
Speed Run, measure fan
and Compressor voltages
at main PCB
Press Freezer button a
second time to Force
Mid Speed Run
Press Freezer button a
third time to Force Low
Speed Run
Press Freezer button a

If the sensor fails in S/C, then it is losing it’s resistance at the higher 950ºF temps. No doubt from all the self-cleaning the customer has done previously. This leads to a failure such as the hi-limit on back of the oven, to control issues such as the sensor. Try a new sensor and advise them against electronic cleaning. Oven sensors have a history of going bad at higher temperatures. One could always put the unit is self clean, monitor the rise in temperature and check the thermistor as the temperature gets close to clean temp. This does take time I know, but it is better than a call-back.

You have to get the whole assembly . But I attended a Samsung training and we were told its not approved as repair but it is commonly changed as just the heater. I have done this job several times. It takes a little time to take out the old heater and replace with the new one from the evaporator assembly but it’s not to bad. It comes with a new fuse and thermistor as well so I always change these parts to. There is one pop rivet to drill out.

This is a pretty straight forward dryer, first thing I would do is get out the meter and see if you have 120V across the terminals to the timer motor while unit is running. Does dryer have timed or auto dry settings? Will timer advance on timed dry? Even with the absence of a wiring diagram, you should be able to trace wiring back to the problem. Some timer motors will run off a dryness sensor board, others from a cycling thermostat. Some of these older dryers could have a start switch with stuck contacts and cause the timer to run right through the off position, just a heads up.

Checking at APD, that hinge looks a lot like what Dacor uses. Might be worth the try.
701035 stainless door kit includes 2
701034 black/white door kit includes 2
What model is it for? If you haven’t call BSH yet, you might want to. They may recommend a different hinge. If it is Stainless steel it converts over to the painted door hinges.

My experience has been that the MCU controls the lock, drain and motor functions. I would be inclined to replace it before the UI. I also had another unit that I replaced CCU because the diagnostics pointed to the CCU board having a bad pump driver. Replaced the board and customer was able to complete one load and then unit stopped draining again. What I found was the drain pump was drawing to much amperage and causing the CCU failure. The pump I had ohm ed out fine too, do not remember if I found a amp or wattage reading possibly on the side of pump? Replaced drain pump and problem went away. I installed original board at customers request, but turns out the original board was too badly damaged to run drain pump. The door on your machine will remain locked until machine senses the water is fully drained.
Examine the drain pump motor housing, I am willing to bet you will find what I did, motor housing full of water. Let me know if this helps.

HI. A Very common water leak complaint on this model is from the drain tube backing up. Water and ice will form on the freezer floor and eventually you will get water leaking out of the freezer on to the customers floor. There is a new and improved drain tube kit that the manufacture has came out with to fix this issue. Attached is a video for this repair as well as a link to the part. Take note that in this video we re install the original drain grommet. You will need to replace the drain grommet with the new drain tube kit. This video shows you have to gain access to the evaporator to clear the ice build up as well. This is important because just installing the drain tube will not fix the issue. The ice has to be cleared and water must drain down to the drain pan. The other possibility of a water leak in this unit would be from the ice maker or water dispenser. Let me know if you need any further help.

The power is cycling on and off (I tested this at the board) sorry I’m not not sure how to attach a pic

Kevin,

I can’t locate the wiring schematic online. If you could post an image of that it could help.
When the fan stops running are you losing power to it? Or is the proper voltage there constantly?
If you can answer my question above and provide me with the schematic, I believe we can walk through this together and get you up and running!
I look forward to hearing back from you!

Sean

Harley, this does happen to us as well. It’s always a customer preference. Some opt to fix if they don’t want to replace but many just decide it’s not worth it.