All Answers

Depending on the age, the tub support rods/springs may need changing to correct the ‘ul’ error. (Unbalance Load). As far as overfilling, this is controlled by the machine control, which has the pressure switch built in. Since the water will stop coming in when you change the cycle, it is assumed the water valve is not sticking open. Also look for lagging water valve to cause the load to get off balance by the addition of unwanted water during the cycle. If you push the basket all the way to the rear, you can slip your hand in the front and grab the tech sheet inside the front panel. I would look at the air cavity in the side of the tank I have seen these restricted this could also cause UL error may not drain in time. Could also explain noise as tub no longer floats and begins to engage pull basket and check strainer also

Intermittent spin situations are often hard to simply guess. Logic would tell us that a heavy load would place the motor (and controller) under more duress than a normal load, so the drive components associated with moving that weight will be the ones affected. Look at the technician sheet provided in the unit for stored fault codes . My usual start when I get one of these complaints is a rigorous test of the unit with a very full load. Unless you can duplicate the symptoms yourself, an occasional hiccup may go unresolved. The usual suspects apply: drain pump operation, MCU and door lock all affect the spin.

I have run into three of these and every time the actuator solved the problem.

David, this is typically the clutch assembly, and can be quite pricey. Let us know if you’d like any more information.

From what I remember on this model, you need to take the 2 screws out that are behind the dispenser once it is pulled out. Then you need to remove the main selector knob and there is 1 more screw behind that. Now you should be able to remove the console, which will then give you access to the upper screws for the front panel. I hope this helps!

Sean

HI. Sorry we currently do not have videos for this model. From the parts break down on this unit, It shows there are 5 screws across the back of the unit at the top that may secure the top panel in place. IF not , take out the dispenser housing and remove the 2 or 3 screws across the bottom. You may be able to take the console off now. I have searched the internet and have not found any information or videos on this unit or its door gasket. I will continue to look for you. I hope this is helpful.

James, that is a pump, and without a model I can’t confirm whether it’s the correct one, but the link to buy is below.

That PCB assembly is a EBR73323501. We do have it available and pricing is listed as well. Hope this helps!

I’d suggest a high possibility of it being the tub thermistor, part # 6322FR2046C. That EE code is notorious for this. I’ll add the part information below for you.

Kraig, I sure do. Details below.

Evap Motor Assembly: DA97-02799C
Temp Sensor: DA32-00011E

Links are also here for you, and a video for the temp sensor replacement if needed. Good luck!

Not a problem. It can be hard to keyword search on some of these models, this noise filter is just called a filter assembly: 6201EC1006T. I’ll add our purchase link for it below so you can see pricing and availability. We don’t do many of them, but it very well could be the problem.

Fred, that is the correct pump for your model. I’ll add the purchase link with availability below for you.

If the model indeed contains R134a as noted on the boilerplate, then it is not flammable. The R410a and R600 are both flammable, as they contain a lot of methane . “This is a standard sticker used by the mfg. of the refrigerator!!! Not flammable refrigerant used here at all…. they are not to be on our units as we do not use flammable refrigerants”

Check the connections where the motor harness plugs into the CCU for signs of damaged contacts where the harness slides onto the CCU connection. The halves of the CCU can be separated to more closely inspect the contacts. Also review any latent fault codes when you get there for any clues. They should be stored in memory.

HI. Please provide me with the model number of your microwave so I can attempt to look that up for you. I am not aware of a microwave having a security code on it. Do you have to enter this code in order to operate the unit?

It could be both, I’d take them with me just in case you get the main done and then realize you do need that sensor. I’ll add the purchase link below with pricing and availability. Hope this goes well for you, let us know how it turns out!

Control: DD92-00033A
Case Sensor: DD94-01006A

Your rotor assembly part# is 4413ER1003A and I’ll add the purchase link below. You’re right that there’s no repair video yet for this part so I’ll be sure we try to add it to our upcoming list. Glad we could help!

Harley, you’re in luck, I have the purchase link for you as well as a video on the installation process. I have no doubt you’ll be able to handle this without a problem. Part # is DA97-00258C. Information is below.

David, this part was a bit tricky to track down, was not titled correctly so had to do a model lookup and find it from the diagram. Part number is 383EW1N006E and I’ll add the purchase link as well. Good luck with this!

James, unfortunately both of these parts would have to come from LG directly. We too have ran across the same thing. A few of our customer just opted to replace instead after realizing there’d be a wait as well as a pretty hefty price tag. Hope this helps!