All Answers

James, we sure can. Part number for that model pump is 00165261. We unfortunately do not have a purchase link so hopefully you have a vendor to get it from. Good luck on this repair!

Gary, it does actually. It’s called a Top Burner Valve Kit G50012681. I’ll add the purchase link below for you, but this should get it up and running again for you!

Not a problem, the door switch is DC64-00519B and I’ll add a purchase link as well a video that will show you step-by-step how to complete this repair. Good luck!

We have replaced plenty but pull them every time usually not too big of a deal on the 600’s as they have rollers when you run the legs up. There’s no other way to change drain line in the refrigerator section but pull the unit it’s not very difficult
you can do this when the unit is pulled you will see you can use Masonite on the floor pull it don’t let the Masonite move
you will not scratch the floor it’s pretty straightforward any unseasoned technician could do this so you will have no problem. Another technician recommended yo use ¼” peg board to lay on floor for protection. After removing top grille, use a pencil to make a small mark where the top trim is against the wall. This way when re-installing you get it back at the same height. Remove bottom toe plate. Check your water line to see if you have enough play to leave connected to unit while pulling. For me to get legs in / out, I use a block of 4 X 4 about 6” long and a 2 X 4 about 2 feet long. Use them for leverage to lift unit to take weight off legs. I lift unit from under bottom door hinge. Once out you will see how to proceed with drain hose replacement.

There is no flow meter on this washer, one of the cold water valves must be bad since it happened in a rinse cycle. Check screen on cold water valve for blockage also. Keep in mind, some of these LG washers use DC volts to the water valves.

7-2. QC TEST MODE.
The washer must be empty and the controls must be in the off state.
1. Press the WASH/RINSE and SPIN SPEED buttons simultaneously.
2. Press the Power button, while the above condition. Then buzzer will sound twice.
3. Press the Start/Pause button repeatedly to cycle through the test modes.
7-3. HOW TO CHECK THE WATER LEVEL FREQUENCY
Number of times the
Start/Pause button
is pressed
Check Point Display Status
None
1 time
2 times
3 times
4 times
5 times
6 times
7 times
8 times
9 times
10 times
11 times
Turns on all lamps and locks the door.
Tumble clockwise.
Low speed Spin.
High speed Spin.
Inlet valve for prewash turns on.
Inlet valve for main wash turns on.
Inlet valve for hot water turns on.
Inlet valve for bleach turns on.
Tumble counterclockwise.
Water Temperature (Thermistor)
Drain pump turns on.
Off
rpm (42~50)
rpm (55~65)
rpm (105~115)
Water level frequency (225~265)
Water level frequency (225~265)
Water level frequency (225~265)
Water level frequency(225~265)
rpm (42~50)
Water Temperature [°C]
Water level frequency (225~265)
❋ Press the CUSTOM PROGRAM and PRE-WASH buttons simultaneously.
A display indicating 41 means a water level frequency of 24.1 kHz.
The digits indicate the water level frequency.
➔ ➔
15
7-4. ERROR DISPLAY

I’ve had a few of these. pop the control off of the door and check for bad contacts or corrosion . I have had three that needed the control. Check sensors also .

Go to Frigidaire.com/ web site and go down to bottom of page ,then click on service and support and than on product manuals.

I would definitely be leaning towards temp control on this unit. Its a very common control to go bad.

Check the pins on the harness plug for corrosion. Also use some dielectric grease on the connection. If problem still happens you may want to call Subzero. Also check cord at the black plug on left side to make sure that The cord is plugging in correctly and it’s not damaged on the female side
sometimes the pins get bent on the male side then you have to change the wiring harness
Possibly as well as the plug cable
if that checks out good then I would definitely go to the top drawer board assembly.

Before changing board, check the drain hose, make sure not kinked. If that is okay, check the RPS sensor. Be aware the Kenmore version is different than the Whirlpool version.

Sounds like, cold control sticking. Or you may have a evaporator fan motor intermittently locking up with a bad bearing.. When you hit it it starts running again.

Check and see if the water level was higher than normal, You might have a water valve that is lazy on shutting off. Water valves for those units are not too bad price wise. If they are original and you have hard water conditions, it could be the problem.

That is a simple top-mount, so checking her drawers might not be such a good plan. What I do on these first is remove the inner freezer panel and assess the frost pattern on the evaporator. Check that the fan is centered in the shroud for best airflow, and that it is turning well. Check for defrost action by placing the unit in defrost, or by checking the resistance of the defrost loop from the ADC in the control panel. Drop 2 screws to access the control. I will attach the technician sheet for you.

If the door interlock switches check OK, then the main relay on the control board is failing.

Most likely inner tub support is cracked and inner tub was rubbing on door boot. Bring support, 6 tub bolts (may shear off), and door boot. Tub bolts I believe take a 10mm socket. What were they washing at the time? I have had several of these where the customer washed rubber back carpets/throw rugs where the rubber backing has been flaking off and gets between the tub and the spin basket and often times clogs the tub outlet hose to the drain pump. Many of these customers also complain about a burning rubber smell…

This has been a common problem around here for years, particularly with units mounted close to a granite or marble counter top. The cool stone meeting the hot steam enhances the condensation process. it is a necessary evil, unfortunately. The unit may have to be reinstalled an inch out to allow the steam to vent unobstructed.When all else fails, see if the unit is installed according to the mfg. In this case, the link to the installation manual is below. If their cabinets don’t have the proper clearance there’s your problem.

To access Service Test Mode Door Must Be Closed
•Press the Heavy + Delicate + Power buttons at the same time for two seconds to enter Service Test Mode.
•All LEDs are displayed for the first two seconds and then Software version will be indicated in Binary Code using LEDS ….Wash / Dry / Clean/Child Lock
•Just like the DMR series you advance through the test next mode by pressing the Normal button . However each test will run by itself (see sequence chart on next page) when test has completed an led will light to indicate test is done and you can then advance to the next test .
•Code list and descriptions located on pp#3. Note: Like the DMR series the codes are displayed during operation or test modes and are not stored in memory.
Service Test Modes & Codes
‘Quick’
Inlet Valve
Flow Meter
Low Level Sensor
Water Supply Error
Low Level Water Error
‘Normal’ + ‘Heavy’ + ‘Delicate’ LED
If Door is open, ‘Delicate’ + ‘Quick’ LED will blink.
Water is supplying after low level S/W is detected. If low level S/W is high, Draining at first.
If water is not supplied, Water Supply Error (‘Quick’ LED 4E) will blink.
When water level is low after water is supplied, Low Level Water Error (‘Normal’ + ‘Heavy’ + ‘Quick’ LED 9E) will blink.
When Turbidity problem is detected after water is supplied, ‘Normal’ + ‘Heavy’ + ‘Delicate’ LED will blink.
If all functions in this mode are completed, ‘Wash’ LED will blink.
No.2
‘Delicate’
Circulation Motor
Spray arms water distribution
If Low Level S/W is detected before Circulation Motor is operating, ‘Sanitize’ LED will blink.
No.3
‘Delicate’ + ‘Quick’ LED
Circulation Motor
Heater
Thermistor
Heater Error
If Low Level S/W is detected before Circulation Motor is operating, ‘Sanitize’ LED will blink.
Circulation Motor and Heater will be operated.
When the temperature is 60℃ or above, the heater is turned off and ‘Wash’ LED will blink.
If Heater or Thermistor have problems, the Heater Error (‘Heavy’ + Delicate’ LED) will blink.
Dispenser will operate during 2 minutes and 10 seconds only one time.
No.4
‘Heavy’ + ‘Quick’
Fan Motor
Dispenser
The Fan Motor does not work.
Operate Vent Motor and check whether Rinse aid is filled.
If there is not rinse in Dispenser, Rinse Refilled light is ON.
No.5
‘Heavy’ + ‘Delicate’ LED
Overflow Sensor
Over level water error
Water is supplied until Over Level Water Error (‘Heavy’ + ‘Quick’ LED) is blinked.
If Over Level Water Error occurs, overflow sensor is OK.
No.6
‘Heavy’ + ‘Delicate’ + ‘Quick’
Drain Pump
Low Level Sensor
Drain Error
Drain pump will work until low level is detected.
If Low level is not detected after 60 seconds, Drain Error (‘Delicate’ LED) will blink.
No.7
‘Normal’ + ‘Quick’ LED
Inlet Valve
Circulation Motor
Fan Motor
Drain Pump
Heater
Operate each operating part when the button is pressed. (See the sequence to the right)
When the ‘Quick’ is pressed, it toggles between Inlet Valve On (‘Quick’ LED On) -> Off (‘Quick’ LED Off).
When ‘Heavy is pressed, it works Circulation Motor On (‘Heavy’ LED On) -Off (‘Heavy’ LED Off) -> Fan Motor On (‘Heavy’ LED On) -> Off (‘Heavy’ LED Off), Drain Pump On (‘Heavy’ LED On) -> Off (‘Heavy’ LED Off)
When ‘Delicate‘ is pressed, it woks Heater On (‘Delicate’ LED On during 2 seconds).
When a different button is pressed operation of the operating part, is stopped and the applicable operation for the pressed button’s function will start.

There is an adjustment screw under the cover of the ice maker head.

If it is the pump, that number is 479595. It’s a common repair we do on these washers and may be time for a new one. I’ll add the purchase link in case you need it. Good luck!

Not a problem Kraig,
the main control board is DD82-01139B
and the turbidity sensor is DD32-0003A

I only have the purchase link for one so hopefully your vendor carries the sensor!