I would start by clearing and cleaning out the drain pump filter housing, there may be some excess foam or suds building up. See if that takes care of it for you!

Check your wiring coming from that switch in the console. I have replaced a couple of those switches. I don’t know if you took the opportunity to inspect the switch but sometimes i have seen them starting to come apart at the seam. One more thing to check is a few of these units that were not installed quite level making the door latch a little off and not allowing the switch to reset properly. Make sure the door addresses the frame squarely and the switch
actuates with ease.

If the sensor was encased in ice, you need to replace it as it is probably damaged or may be defective anyway. Re-locate the sensor to the outlet side of the evaporator just before the cap tube if it is not already located there. There is also some fairly common issues with the evaporator fan becoming intermittent or the plug to the evaporator fan coming off the unit due to the ice build up. We have even had to cut the harness and hard wire it to the fan in some cases.

This service data sheet is
intended for use by persons having electrical, electronic, and mechanical experience
and knowledge at a level generally considered acceptable in the appliance repair trade.
Any attempt to repair a major appliance may result in personal injury and property
damage. The manufacturer or seller cannot be responsible, nor assume any liability for
injury or damage of any kind arising from the use of this data sheet.
Models Covered:
RS267TDBP/XAA
RS267TDPN/XAA
RS267TDRS/XAA
RS267TDWP/XAA
Press Freezer button a
third time to Force Low
Speed Run
Wait 5 seconds between button pushes
Press Freezer button a
forth time to Force Defrost
of Fridge & Freezer,
measure defrost voltage
at main PCB
Press Freezer button one
time at the Test Mode to
Force Compressor High
Speed Run, measure fan
and Compressor voltages
at main PCB
Self Diagnosis: Press both buttons (Energy
Saver– Lighting) simultaneously (No sound
when both buttons are pressed at the same
time) ’til the display quits blinking and beeps, 8-
12 seconds, then release and read Fault Codes.
This will also cancel the Fault Mode created by
self-diagnosis at power up.
Forced Mode: Press both buttons (Lighting–
Fridge) simultaneously (No sound when both buttons
are pressed at the same time) ‘til it beeps and
goes blank, 8-12 seconds
Publication # tsRS267TD Revision Date 09/21/2010
Sealed System
Component Value Chart
Display Change F° to C° Press and Hold “Lighting”
for 3 sec.
Sales Mode, No Compressor Operation
Press Lighting & Freezer temp buttons simultaneously
for 3 sec ( you will hear a “Ding Dong”) to remove
or put into Sales Mode. When in the Sales
Mode the Display will show “OF” “OF”
Removing power will not cancel this mode.
Press Freezer button a
second time to Force
Mid Speed Run
3600RPM 2450RPM 2200RPM
Compressor → Condenser →Side Cluster → Hot Pipe→
Dryer → R Capillary → R Evaporator → F Evaporator →
Suction Pipe → Compressor
Installation Note:
2” space required
top, back & sides
Component Resistance Wattage Voltage
Freezer Defrost Heater 66Ω 218 120vac
Fridge Defrost Heater 103Ω 140 120vac
Dispenser Heater 2057Ω 7 120vac
Fill Tube Heater 3130Ω 4.6 120vac
Sensors 2.5kΩ-89kΩ N/A 1~4.5vdc
Fans N/A N/A 7~12vdc
Refrigerant Charge
R134a 7.76 oz.
NOTICE:
RS267TD PN & RS Colors
Parts Change: Refer to bulletin.
Door Handle Parts Change

tsRS267TD ReviA 09/21/2010 1

The parts breakdown calls item 5 the User Interface, part number W10312207. The part is now called a control after the part number changes.

Use the 0.90 as that is only a 1% change in rated value and it will still operate normally. D .95 will work just fine as long as you’re within 10%.

I had the same issue and the switch took out the main control board. This is the exact symptom I had and the control board corrected the issue. See parts link. http://lookup.appliancevideo.com/lookup/227750/1544213

Below is a video for a dispenser motor close to your model. I also provided an exact parts link breakdown link below.http://lookup.appliancevideo.com/lookup/64564/374474/32#32 Matt Ace technician

GE only recommends using this on the all metal liner models so I would not recommend installing this on a plastic liner models. As far as I know if this issue was occurring during the warranty period GE was replacing the entire freezer door with a door that was better insulated. As a tech I would not want to assume liability for installing a heater on a unit with a plastic liner. I’m not sure if you have tried this kit before but even with the kit installed if the water through the door is not used on a regular basis you can still run into the line freezing (however it does make it less likely to reoccur). Many people have gone years without the line freezing. Typically I have the customer shut the unit down for 24 hours to allow the door to completely thaw and then try to make it a point to move a little water through the door once a day.

Cycle the compressor off, wait 4-5 minutes, then restart. I had one that was bugging me like this, and after several trips finally caught the compressor having a hard time starting up. Replaced relay/OL and solved the problem. The fact that the temperature is corresponding with the display, my assumption is that your thermistor in fresh foods is fine. Sounds like an airflow issue to fresh foods since your freezer side is holding at 0F. Freezer staying cold would rule out sealed system issue on single evaporator unit. Now the only issue is catching the problem when it is acting up! My two cents would be leaning towards the evaporator fan motor or the low voltage side of main board not supplying the DC voltage at all times. You can use the WR60X10074 motor which comes with the defrost thermistor attached. Would also recommend checking the defrost circuit and energize to make sure it is working properly.
Agree with you on the display and dispenser interface not having anything to do with the other. May want to ask customer to check at air vent in fresh foods for airflow if temperature gets warm again, of course the door switch will need to be held in when checking.

It should not matter which ‘com’ terminal you attach the wires to, as long as they came from the Neutral circuit on the old clock. Here are the kit instructions below.

Retrofit of Sanyo / Torisan ERC3H or ERC3DD range control in place
of Invensys or Siebe or Robertshaw.
Kit contains: 1 control
1 lock motor assembly (30” wall ovens, only)
Suggested tools: 1/8” flat screwdriver
Short or 90° ¼” nutdriver
Medium Phillips screwdriver
1. Kill power. Access rear of control by dropping the control panel (3 screws underneath control panel
on wall ovens) ( 4 screws on rear wire cover on freestanding range). Protect the panel from scratching.
2. Preparation of harness for Torisan ERC. The yellow (bake), violet (broil) and/or yellow (convect)
lead terminals for the elements may have a keyed housing. (Fig A). This has to be removed. Insert a
small screwdriver or awl into the front (opposite side from lead) and pry the internal retainer away
from the brass colored terminal. Slide housing off terminal.
Fig A
3. General controller changeout. Transfer the leads from old control to the new control. The terminals
are in the same approximate positions and are named the same. The VIOLET, YELLOW and
YELLOW for CONVect insert onto terminals located ON TOP of the relays on the Torisan control.
Connectors with plastic housings insert with flat side toward small gap between terminal and wall
(Figs B).
Fig B.THE BROIL RELAY HAS TWO CONNECTIONS (Fig D): VIOLET goes to NO and BLACK (L1A)
goes to COM. The BAKE has only the YELLOW to NO and CONV has only the YELLOW for
CONVect to NO. The letters NO and COM are small and are molded into the relay covers adjacent to
the terminals. There are color dots corresponding to the lead colors on the relays. (Fig D)
The new control may not have a GND terminal for the green wire. On models with steel control panels,
the ground wire must remain connected to the Clock Bracket. The terminal for the control must be
taped or tucked under the clock bracket before re-assembly. On models with plastic control panels, the
green wire should be removed.
Fig C
Fig D
WB00X7033-1 Pg 2 of 4
Black L1
Small gap between
terminal and wall.
Fig E
Fig F
4. Special consideration for Double Oven controls. ( Control has Relays for Both Upper and Lower Ovens)
Beware the GREY for MDL1 and BLACK/WHITE for MDL2 have their position reversed
on the new control. (See Fig F) Be sure to test Clean door latching operation before leaving.
Pg 3 of 4
WB00X7033-1
MDL1
MDL2
REVERSED
Black L1
5. LATCH MOTOR CHANGE OUT. On 30” Single and Double Wall ovens it is necessary to change
the lock motor assembly from the original Kingston (Fig G) to a lower profile type (Fig H) to provide
clearance for the terminals on top of the power relays. This should be done while control is out.
Remove two screws that are facing up on the latch assembly base plate just behind the vent trim and to
the right of the hook. Disconnect the 3-lead switch harness by squeezing the locks on the connector
side. Disconnect two individual in line black power leads to the motor.
The new latch assembly (Fig H) fits into same mounting holes and harness connections. The black
motor leads can be swapped.
6. The membrane keypad connector may have a vertical lock bar instead of horizontal. When
reassembling the control panel, check that no leads interfere with latch moving parts. Check all bake,
broil, clean, convect, oven light operations after assembly.
Fig G – Kingston Latch Assembly
Fig H – Neo Latch Motor
Pg 4 of 4
WB00X7033-1
Disconnect
here
Mounting
screws
Mounting screws
Polarity not
important

Did your tech ohm out thermistors? If the fans were not running always visibly check the 2 resistors on the board if one is discolored. Replace fan with board. If not discolored should be okay. Either fan may run or not with compressor running on a General Electric.

That error is an “inlet error”. What I normally find to be the cause of that is broken/damaged wires inside the door panel. I would start there. If those check out ok, make sure that you have water going to the dishwasher. Like I said earlier, I believe your problem will be the wiring (I’ve seen it many times) so I’d start with that

Does the door lock when you push start? That would be the first thing I would look at. If the door isn’t locking, the unit will not start the cycle.

Fred, ApplianceVideo.com just came out with 29 new videos on the Samsung dryer. Here is the link, very good videos. https://www.appliancevideo.com/appliances/samsung-dv422ewhdwr-dryer/

I would be concerned about the freezer temp only being at 20 or 25 degrees when the ff section getting down to 30.
Sounds like the damper is working and you said it has a good frost pattern.When you checked the frost pattern, did you defrost the evaporator then restart the system, how long did it take to get a full frost pattern? Should have a good pattern within 5 to 10 minutes at least. Confirm for me, this is a single evaporator right? I am going to say ( f 21 Freezer perhaps right after defrost) certainly 13 is near normal… if fresh food temp drops below about 36 degrees the compressor should have shut down via thermostat… replace it. I find it odd that the f 21 freezer took many days to freeze water bottle should have done so overnight. Something smells fishy there. checked light switches, defrost shutting off etc? Did you close damper down to balance load?

I would try looking for a video at ApplianceVideo.com. Just type in your symptom and look for a free video. I did see this video for your model on this website.

I had one where the motor overload switch was bad. Motor would run, stop, run, stop, I had to remove drum, set the idler wheel so the motor would run and close the door switch. I saw the overload switch on the motor go out. Had to replace the motor.

Harley
There is a fault tracing diagnostic on this model. Press and hold the pots & pans button five times within fifteen seconds to put this unit into the diagnostic mode. This will get the error codes you will need to troubleshoot this issue. I would try looking for a video at ApplianceVideo.com. Just type in your symptom and look for a free video.

If the Vanes are loose, or if something gets inside vanes, this could cause the issue. an idler pulley worn, motor bearing issue, or drum rollers. I have seen the drum jumping on these after the front glides get debris on them. It can cause the drum to chatter instead of gliding on the front bearing. A worn blower will make a hammering noise upon start up and shutdown. We have had a couple where the rear motor mount screw sheared off, drove us crazy, check the rear motor mount where it mounts to the bottom of the cabinet, if it’s loose, we used a self tapping screw in a different area to secure.

I would look at the filter head. Is spot-on regarding the filter head. Unfortunately, the tiny actuator tip in these receptacles wears out or breaks over time, causing disruption of water to the unit. The filters this customer has replaced are probably only 10% used. The head comes with new lines to connect to the supply and valve.
The current part number is 67004106. This is more common than hard water. ApplianceVideo.com also has a Free video on this problem. Go to the site and check it out.