All Answers

You disturbed the balance when you moved the running fridge. The clinking was the rotor in the compressor being moved out of its natural orbit. The fact that the noise subsided is a good thing. Remember that the compressor is a motor and pump assembly, suspended by springs in a metal container. If this happened while the compressor was running and with you moving the refrigerator, it could have been a domino effect that subsided after the movement of the refrigerator was completed, because some vibration occurs inside the compressor while it is running that is absorbed by the springs, but your movement of the refrigerator most likely amplified or increased this internal vibration. If the customer has not heard this noise prior to your movement of the refrigerator and it has not re-occurred I would deem it a normal situation. However if it does randomly occur then I would suspect one of the internal springs has stretched or broken and this would require replacement of the compressor to effect a repair. Most likely you will have no other issues with the unit.

The sensor is just under the main top, attached to the cabinet brace (black object). However, it is probably not the culprit, If the spinner basket, bearings or shocks are bad, the tub will spin off-balance, causing the sensor to actually do its job.

Did you look at the air dome on left side of tub?
Many times I have found crud in the air hose that goes to pressure switch.
I use a small screw driver to remove as much as possible and then a pipe cleaner or to clean out the set. Normally if you have a perforated tub, the high setting will be approximately the height of the last line of holes.
Earlier machines had larger differences than the newer machines between low, med, and high. Later machines don’t have as large of differences. This is due to more aggressive agitators.
Of course, the latest machines have load sensing capabilities so the machine may not rely on the pressure switch/sensor.
Best thing to do is check the Use and Care guide, it will give some clues.

Check the voltage at the motor? Also, have you verified the polarity of your power source and ground? Many times a machine will go through manual forced tests OK but when it comes to running the actual programming sequence, that’s when weird things show up.Also the The Honeywell turbidity sensor is monitored during the wash phase. If it is faulty, it can throw the unit into a cancel /drain cycle. Measure your voltage at the power connection and run the wash motor in Diagnostic mode if it will respond. Check for any signs of voltage drop when the motor is energized. If there is no voltage at the motor during diagnostics, there’s a good chance the wiring harness is affected. There were issues with wires being cut where they cross the bottom of the door from the control.

I don’t have a wiring diagram, I would try looking for a video at ApplianceVideo.com. Just type in your symptom and look for a free video.

Those little flexible pickup tools with the small claws on the end make excellent drain snakes. Work it down, then rotate the claws for an augur effect. Won’t damage the pipe if you keep the jaws shut.

We have had a few technicians work on these so far. I know ApplianceVideo.com was in the process of making a video on this product.

Turn the icemaker off for 15-20 seconds. Turn it on then immediately activate the feeler arm 3 times.
It should cycle then.

I use compressed air from the bottom of the tube, Be careful though to much pressure can break the tubing, put a towel over the exit hole as it will blow out deposits. If you have problems with that o shut it down and wait 24 hours until it defrosts completely and then used compressed air.

The shifter glows on all of them. There is an LED tachometer lamp that watches the RPM of the cam it sits over. Kind of like the LED on the in-door ice system WP has. Funny you were able to see it…

Its possible it could be a bad safety valve. But personally I would probably try replacing the ignitor first. If the ignitor is right on the border of going bad and not getting hot enough to keep the safety valve open this could cause the sputtering of the burner. If you put an amp clamp around one of the wires going to the ignitor I would assume you should read between 3.2and 3.6 amps with a good ignitor. Ive seen a weak ignitor cause this issue on a whirlpool oven but it was a pretty basic model.

These are one of the toughest drains to stop from freezing over. A few things that have worked for me in the past is adjusting the front leveling legs so that there is a slight tilt to the rear to help the water flow down the drain line. The other thing that you could try which is not likely recommended by the manufacturer but installing a defrost termination that is 5 degrees higher than the OEM termination that is currently installed. It Is usually clipped to the evaporator towards the front of the unit. If you remove the termination you will see the rating on the side usually they will say something like 30/55 which means it closes at 30 degrees and opens at 55 degrees. By installing a termination the closes at 60 degrees it will allow the heater to stay on just a little longer to help the rest of the dripping water from the defrost cycle to pass through the drain before the cooling begins again. Hope this helps.

That means you have a door lock open circuit. Check the connection, or you have a defective door lock. That will correct your issue.

The float sensor is on the side probably rusted or stuck float assembly. Replace both floats Part# Case sensor PART NUMBER: DD61-00236A

Replace the tub assembly . The current part number is AJQ35154203. Excellent info once again! Parts house is telling me that the rotor and stator need to be replaced also. Will the manual in the library on a WM2077CW be close enough for a reference on this machine?

You might want to contact ERPARTS.COM They carry a lot of aftermarket parts that either meet or exceed OEM specifications. These guys appear to have one http://www.tribles.com/

If the burners on top are working , check for a spider web in the burner near the air shutter or valve orifice,
similar to what happens on outdoor grills. This can give an erratic flame.

It can be either the fan motors or the control board. I’m not sure if this is the one with the ability to see what the motor rpm is or not, but even though this feature is on some of the Thermadore ovens, we have found that it can still be either one. If its the motor, we have found sometimes it can have grease and or lint on it causing this problem. be ready for either component and tell your customer both can be a possibility. F34 is upper oven fan speed to slow you can check the fan speed throw disgnostics. hold the start and the dehydrate buttons down same time for 3 seconds you will go into diagnostic press timer #1 this will turn the fan speed on it should be 3200 rpm if it is less upper fan motor is bad . board send 18 volts to hall sensor on board.

There were latch issues. If the control does not see the door latch motor input, it may shut down. Try this I think it will resolve your issue.

We are currently taping the LG Dryer Model: DLE1001W very similar to the model you are working on but unfortunately its not completed yet. We have done many of these gaskets on the LG dryers and they have always been an exact fit.I believe you may have the wrong part packed into a box with the correct part number. We have had this happen to us several times over the years from different manufactures. I think you need to get the old gasket measurement and call your part distributor to have them measure the gasket before shipping a new one. Let us know the outcome. Matt Ace technician