All Answers

Unfortunately, and surprisingly to me, we do not. I just double checked. Sorry about that. I’m making a note to get some added asap. In the meantime, I’ll add a video that will have a very similar setup to an LG. And a common pump replacement part if you need that as well. SInce you don’t have your model listed I took a guess, but you can look it up as well.

Is it possible the thermostat wasn’t checked on the initial diagnosis due to the burn marks on the inverter? I can see why it might have been missed but it could potentially solve your problem. From there, I’d suggest referring to factory service if it doesn’t work. We’ve had a few that we’ve been unable to figure out and they’ve either replaced or sent a certified technician to double check us.

Fred, the motor for this model is DC93-00101B and linked below. Let us know if there’s anything else we can do for you!

Fred, I’d say to check the dispenser hose and mechanism itself. Sometimes that valve or arm isn’t moving to open as it should. Also, ensure the hose is clear of debris and build up. Sometimes they get gunked up and it prevents the detergent from getting to the drum. Hope this helps!

Not a problem, the motor number is DC31-00055D and I’ll link it below. Thanks for thinking of us!

The Evaporator Fan Motor part number is 4681JB1027C and I’ll add a link for it as well. Glad you figured it out!

Harley, you can do it either way. We would probably do the cover assembly which includes those two parts you mentioned as well as the ice cap: ACQ54074202. We sometimes find the cover needs replaced anyway, or do it as more of a cosmetic means since we’re in there already.

David, I apologize, we are trying to add missing parts ad breakdowns all the the time, so I’ll be sure to add this to the list.

Belt: LB1655

Good luck on this repair!

James, you’re right in that we have no video for this pump replacement and I didn’t find a parts link for it either.

Pump: 4681EA2001C

Hopefully you have a local vendor to purchase from!

Gary, the first few you do can be a learning experience, and some are a snug fit. I’ll add a video below, it may help. We typically say to start at one spot and work your way around, but soaking it in warm water can help make it a bit more pliable. They do only have some stretch but once you get them started they shouldn’t be too bad. Good luck!

Hello
I have never heard of a jig kit. If the washer continues to go out of balance you should get an error code. If the load is put in evenly and not overloaded it will produce an error code. Send us the error code so we can give you more specific directions to move forward. Thanks Matt Ace technician

Hi Bob, sorry about the delay on the reply… If the code you are referring to is “F1 E1” then the correct process will be unplugging the unit for a full 3-5 minutes. then plug back in. If error code reappears, you will need to replace the main control (clock)… PN 8186394… Hope this help you in your repair!
Thanks for your question AceTech52

CAVITY LIGHT 40W REPLACED TWICE-

Are you referring to the oven cavity bulb? Is it a 40 watt appliance bulb? How many bulbs have you gone through? how often do they go out? I would check you incoming voltage and voltage to the bulb socket. Let me know what you find. Could be a bad batch of bulbs.

That is strange to happen at the same time. You either have a bad control board or evap fan motor. First try resetting the unit by unplugging it for 5 mins. See if that works. IF not, At the evaporator fan connector, check for 13VDC from the red to white wire and 8-13VDC from the white to yellow wire. Make sure the unit is warm enough that the thermostat is calling for the unit to cool/run. If you have proper voltage then you have a bad fan motor. If not the proper voltage then as long as your wires are not damaged you have a bad control board. Take a look at the control board. There are 2 large resistors. IF either of these resistors look damaged as in melted or burnt/discolored then you will need to replace the board and the evap fan motor. Let me know if you need any further help. Attached is link for the fan motor.

WR55X10942 CNTRL

CNTRL BOARD– PRESSURE SWITCH IS IN THE CNTRL BOARD

Check to see if you have power going to the compressor and condenser fan motor. If the evaporator fan motor is not running either I would suspect the Defrost timer. Try advancing the timer and the unit may start running again. The timers will get stuck in defrost. If so you need to replace it. You may have a bad fan motor. A condenser fan motor that is not running will cause your compressor to overheat and then not run either causing the compressor to be very hot. IF you need any further help please let me know.

There are a couple options when it comes to the inlet valve, do you need the single or triple? I’ll add both for you and then a video as well if you need some further help.

Kraig, Fisher & Paykel can be tricky to get parts breakdown and information. The heater or element kit you need is 395583. I’ll attach the part information below as well as a video for you.