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Harley, it won’t come up under pulley, it’s listed as a bracket assembly which is confusing: DC96-00882C. Don’t have video for you but hoping this will do, and I’ll link it below if you want to purchase. Good luck!

Sands,

Noises are very difficult to diagnose over the internet. My question to you would be, do you have any other issues that preceded the grinding noise or any other problems now?
While a transmission is definitely a possibility, I would think that there are 2 other options more likely the culprit than the transmission based on my experiences on this product. First, I would suggest a drain pump issue. Second, I would consider a problem with the splutch mechanism.
If you can provide any more detailed infortmation (ie. a better idea of where the noise is coming from, a certain cycle that causes the noise to happen etc) I will be happy to do my best and assist you further.

Best of Luck,
Sean

This usually refers to a drain pump error or debris blockage. Pump replacement part # is 00620774 and I’ll link information below. Good luck!

To ENTER SERVICE DIAGNOSTICS Mode:
Press SW1 and SW2 simultaneously for 3 seconds. Release both buttons when you hear the CHIME indicator.
Unit must not be in Lockout prior to entering SERVICE DIAGNOSTIC MODE.
The display will show 01 to indicate the control is in step 1 of the diagnostics routine.
To EXIT SERVICE DIAGNOSTICS Mode: do one of the following 3 options:
• Press SW1 and SW2 simultaneously for 3 seconds.
• Disconnect the product from power.
• Allow 20 minutes to pass.
Following the exit of the diagnostic mode, the controls will then resume normal operation.
Cooling diagnostics are steps 1 through 7 and 32 through 38. Dispensing diagnostics are steps 8 through 31.
Each step must be manually advanced. Press SW5 to move to the next step in the sequence. Press SW4 to back
up in the sequence to the previous step. Diagnostics will begin at Step 1. Each step is displayed in the two digits
of the dispenser user interface display. The step results are displayed in the two digits on dispenser user interface
display 2 seconds after the step number is displayed. An amber order filter light will be shown to designate that the
step number is being displayed and a red replace filter light will be shown to designate that the status of the step is
being displayed. All button and pad inputs shall be ignored and all inputs shall be off except as described in the
actions for each step.
Service Test – 1 FC thermistor
• The board will check the resistance value of the thermistor and display flashes results on the RC Temp
Display. (01 = Pass, 02 = Open, 03 = Short)
Service Test – 2 RC thermistor
• The board will check the resistance value of the thermistor and display the results on the RC Temp. Display
(01 = Pass, 02 = Open, 03 = Short)
Service Test – 3 Evaporator fan motor and air baffle motor
• Turns on the evaporator fan motor and opens air baffle. Verify air flow from the evaporator fan. Check to see
if the baffle opens. Status indicator will be blank.
Service Test – 4 Compressor/ condenser fan motor
• Press SW3 to activate compressor / condenser fan circuit. (01 = ON, 02 = OFF).
Service Test – 6 Defrost heater/Bi-metal
• Note: if bi-metal is open, it will need to be by-passed for heater to operate. Heater should be on. Display will
be blank until a valid reading is displayed. (01 = Bi-metal closed, 02 = Bi-metal open)
Service Test – 7 Defrost mode
• The defrost mode can be set by using SW3. In ADC Mode the product will automatically defrost after a
minimum of 8 hours of compressor runtime up to maximum of 96 hours of compressor runtime, depending upon
product usage. In Basic Mode the product will automatically defrost after 8 hours of compressor runtime.
(01 = ADC ON, 02 = Basic Mode ON) 8 hour timer
Service Test – 8 All UI indicators
• Verify that all LED indicators and UI display digits turn on automatically. All indicators ON for 30 second
timeout.
Service Test – 9 UI Button and Pad Test
• Displays the user Interface Buttons and Ice and Water Pads status as described in the Component Status
Indicator column,below.
NOTE: Do not use SW4 and SW5 as these are used only to navigate through the Service Diagnostics.
Service Test – 11 Dispenser Lighting
• Pressing SW3 will change the dispenser lighting setting from OFF (0%) to ON (100%) to DIM (50%)
Status indicator is Blank
Service Test – 16 RC Door Switch Input
• Displays the RC Door status in realtime on the UI display. Verify that the open and close status display
correctly. (01 = RC Door open, 02 = RC Door closed)
Service Test – 17 FC Door Switch Input
• Displays the FC Door status in realtime on the UI display. Verify that the open and close status display
correctly. (01 = FC Door Open, 02 = FC Door Closed)
Service Test – 18 Ice Door Motor
• Displays the Ice Door stepper motor state on the UI display. Press ice paddle and verify that the mechanical
operation of the ice door corresponds to the component status indicator. NOTE: Ice door will have a delay in closing
after an ice paddle is released. (01 = Closed, 02 = Opening, 03 = Open, 04 = Closing)
Service Test – 20 Water Filter Usage Rating
• Displays in two sequential flashes the total water usage rating in gallons for the water filter on the UI display.
Wait until dash is displayed which means end of the number. (00/0- to 99/9-) Example: 123 will be displayed as
12 3-
Service Test – 21 Water Filter Time Rating
• Displays in two sequential flashes the total time rating in days for the water filter on the UI display. Wait until
dash is displayed which means end of the number. (00/0- to 99/9-) Example: 123 will be displayed as 12 3-
Service Test – 22 Water Filter Usage
• Displays in two sequential flashes the current water filter status in gallons used since last reset on the UI
display. Wait until dash is displayed which means end of the number. (00/0- to 99/9-) Example: 123 will be
displayed as 12 3-
Service Test – 23 Water Filter Time
• Displays in two sequential flashes the current water filter status in days since last reset on the UI display.
Wait until dash is displayed which means end of the number. (00/0- to 99/9-) Example: 123 will be displayed as
12 3-
Service Test – 24 Water Filter Reset
• Display in two sequential flashes the current times the water filter was reset on the UI display. Wait until
dash is displayed which means end of the number. (00/0- to 99/9-) Example: 123 will be displayed as 12 3-
Service Test – 25 Water dispensing and icemaker fill test
• Simulate an icemaker fill. Then the icemaker will show icemaker fill status. Press the water pad to initiate
the water dispense.
NOTE: To initiate icemaker fill jump icemaker thermostat T and H.
Digit 1 0=Icemaker fill OFF, 1=Icemaker fill ON
Digit 2 0=Water valve OFF, 1=Water valve ON
Service Test – 26 Main Control Software Version NOTE: Not normally used
• Displays in three sequential flashes the Main Control software version on the UI display. NOTE: This is
repeatedly displayed during all time in this step. 00/00/00 to 99/99/99
Service Test – 27 Dispenser UI Control Software Version NOTE: Not normally used
• Displays in three sequential flashes the Dispenser UI Control software version on the UI display.
NOTE: This is repeatedly displayed during all time in this step. 00/00/00 to 99/99/99
Service Test – 31 Touch Input Module Software NOTE: Not normally used
• Displays in three sequential flashes the Dispenser UI Control software version on the UI display. NOTE: This
is repeatedly displayed during all time in this step. 00/00/00 to 99/99/99
Service Test – 32 Ambient Thermistor UI Control
• This is an internal board test. The board will check the resistance value of the thermistor and display the
results. (01 = Pass, 02 = Open, 03 = Short)
Service Test – 33 Humidity Sensor UI Control
• Relative Humidity Test Humidity % Value or Er = Fail
Service Test – 34 Vertical Mullion Heater Mode
• Set the Vertical Mullion Heater Mode by selecting SW3. (01 = Sensor Operation On, 02 = Sensor Operation

Check the door sensing switch and the operation of the switch. Sounds like its in the switch. We have seen this issue before.

It sounds like it may have venting issues. If these are vented like most apartments around here, they need cleaning desperately and probably different exhaust duct that the foil which is likely on there. The RLE202 Lint eater is what I carry in my truck and is an affordable way to provide this additional service. The Whirlpool you can change the time per vend. The plastic gear on your timer will tell you what the time is now. I believe yellow is 30 min., green is 45 min. We have ours at 45 and it seems to work fine. I don’t know with the Huebsch Dryer.

HDE007A
HDE007C
HDE107A
HDE107C
HDG009A
HDG009C
HDG109A
HDG109C
SDE007A
SDE007A1500
SDE107A
SDE107A1500
SDE307A
SDE307A1500
SDE407A
SDE407A1500
SDE407D
SDE407D1500
SDE507A
SDE507A1500
SDE607A
SDE607A1500
SDE607C
SDE607C1500
SDE607D
SDE607D1500
SDE707A
SDE707A1500
SDG009A
SDG109A
SDG309A
SDG409A
SDG409D
SDG509A
SDG609A
SDG609C
SDG609D
SDG709A
UDE007A
UDG009A

If it gets to the wash, but cannot tumble both directions (speed control), it will fault out and drain. There should be a technician sheet inside the lower panel to help you with diagnostics. This a Frigidaire product. Also check the inlet hoses and filter in valve. Another technician in had this issue a few months back. Where the timer was rapidly advancing through the cycles. The MCU controls the timer advancement.

The “CE” error code is a communications error; the low voltage board and high voltage board are not communicating. Check for poor wiring connections between the boards, check for any pins backed out of wiring connectors, check for broken/open wiring inside the door. The High voltage board is located where the compressor is located; the low voltage board is located in the handle/display board area.

This is actually a Frigidaire-designed dryer, using the old style ball for a drum bearing. It sits on a front glide for support. The only other possibility of rumbling sounds might be from a stripped blower wheel.

where is the sensor for the mcro and do you have part number for sensor

Here is the info from the tech sheet for your F3 E2 error code.

1. Disconnect power or unplug oven.
2. Check microwave sensor connection.
3. Measure sensor resistance: 280k Ω at 70° F (21° C), 1k Ω at 392° F (200° C). If resistance
   is not valid replace sensor.
4. If sensor resistance and connections are good, then check for welded-closed relays on
   the control. If relay shorted, replace control.

Make sure your the microwaves temp. sensor is testing at the correct ohm value. Also, make sure your connections for the sensor are good and check for damaged wiring or shorted components to ground. If everything tests good I would replace the electronic control. Attached is a link to the part.

Hi. If you have checked the continuity of the water inlet valve and it is within the ohm range for that specific valve then you know that the valve is electrically good. Many times an inlet valve will test good electrically but what happens is the valve sticks and does not open to allow water to flow. Usually you can hear the valve being energized(humming noise) but no water or a very small amount of water will enter the unit. Make sure you have proper water flow and power to the inlet valve. If at this point your still not getting water to flow then replace the inlet valve. Your model number is incomplete but I have attached a link to a Bosch inlet valve that might be the correct one for your dishwasher.

if you have continuity through coil on inlet valve you need to turn on dishwasher start cycle and check with volt meter to see if you have 120 volts at wires that conn. to coil if so check for a clogged screen or elbow in the inlet valve also there is a mcro switch in the blatter asm on the left side of the dishwasher that could be bad

MOST likely? Door latch. Next most likely- CCU. This older model Duet should be properly diagnosed after u get there, as some of the parts are getting pricey.. The attached tech sheet will help if the one in the lower panel is missing.
If machine does not start …..
Open and close the door. The door has to be opened between
consecutive wash cycles.
2. Check the door switch/lock unit running Drain cycle.
3. If door is locked, drain the unit. Remove lower cover and drain by
opening the Pump filter. Release the door as described in the
section Manually Unlocking the Door Lock System, see page 8.
4. Unplug washer or disconnect power.
5. Check the resistance of the motor pump. See pages 8.
6. Check the drain pump filter for foreign objects.
7. Check all wire harness connections to the CCU are not broken or
wires detached and connector’s internal pins are visible.
8. Check all the green wires (ground harnesses system) are not
broken or wires detached.
9. Check the two ground switches are pressed correctly by the toe
and rear panels.
10. Plug in washer or reconnect power.
11. Check the button/LED assembly by selecting different cycles and
changing the modifiers and options available to confirm the
button/LED assembly is responding.
12. Verify unit operation by running a Service History Mode &

We were instructed to always change the hinge receptacles whenever we changed the hinges. This one is a 1998 model. We have seen issues with these doing the same thing. According to our service desk file we have done ten of them on this exact model, on everyone we changed the hinges part number 71003353 and the receptacles part number 71002206 and I see none that we were reworked on. We have been changing the inner door panel, door hinges, and receiver blocks to repair some KitchenAid wall ovens to fix it properly, or it would come back on us. Make sure if it is a stainless door that you get the stainless hinges.

Here is the part number # WB36T10749

The water filter head can also clog up. A sign of this would be poor pressure through the dispenser even though the supply pressure seems OK. Being as the filter head is upstream of the water supply, it may be the solution. Try removing the filter and use a filter plug to see if the water flow improve, if so then change the filter head.It sounds, like the, water valve did your ohm the coils as check the wiring diagram does the circuit feed through ice maker ? The filter bypass will not change the way the head reacts. the head could be plugged or the little pins on the head that the filter pushes in could be worn.

Fred,

If any of the parts in the heating series are open you will get the same result. You will need a multimeter to check the resistance of all heating components…heating element, thermal fuse(s), thermister and/or thermostats. You would need to disconnect one wire to each component and check for continuity/resistance to confirm that each component is good.

Hopefully this helps

The first thing I would start with is to ohm out the gas valve if I hear the relay close in the control board and I perceive the igniters are good. There are probably 4 terminals on the gas valve (2 on top and 2 on bottom). Disconnect 1 wire from each side (with unit unplugged) and check for resistance on both sides of the valve. Each side should have continuity between the 2 terminals on each side of the valve. If that shows open you need to replace the gas valve. If the valve checks out ok, I would then check to see how much voltage is being sent out of the corresponding relay on the control when bake or broil are selected. There should only be 3 parts in the baking/broiling sequence – ignters, valve and electronic control.

I hope this helps!

You should be able to bypass the door switch in order to make sure the unit will function. If you take the door apart, you can access the door switch to bypass it and push the door liner closed so the unit doesn’t leak on you. I would verify all functions of the unit before I would replace the hinge. The only way I can see the hinge being the cause of the unit not starting would be that the damaged hinge is preventing the door from closing – thus the door switch is NOT being actuated.

Sean