Brian, without the model I can’t give you exact part information, but I have one here that I think is similar. Take a look below and let me know (DD97-00131A): Water Level Sensor. If so, then simply go to our parts link savemoreonparts.com and you can do the lookup from there with your model number and find the exact one you need.
- AV Repair Help answered 11 years ago
We actually find this to be a common issue with freezers not cooling that have no evident mechanical problems. If the door is jammed open, even a tiny bit, by a bag of frozen vegetables or a box, etc… you’ll get a lot of condensation and thawing. Sometimes, it’s also caused by the the door being misaligned or broken and worn down hinges. I’d inspect the door itself and it’s parts and go from there. Sometimes removing the blockage and keep it closed up will solve the issue itself, but hinges or door fixes may be the next step if that fails to correct it.
- AV Repair Help answered 11 years ago
Fred, the heater assembly (5301DD1001G) could be bad, we sometimes have to get replacements for parts that fail right away. If you’ve replaced the main board and it’s testing fine, then I’d assume the heater again. I’ll attach the video for you to ensure it’s being installed/replaced correctly. These can be tricky since the spots to work in are so tight. Let us know if there’s anything else we can do for you from here!
- AV Repair Help answered 11 years ago
We do, here are the requested parts & their availability/pricing:
Thermistor: 35001191
Thermal Fuse: DC47-00016A
Good luck on the repair!
- AV Repair Help answered 11 years ago
It’s very possible the door hinge would solve your entire problem (4775ER2002A). In some cases, the door closes, but it doesn’t communicate that with it off course, so the unit will fail to start. I’d suggest pricing both possible parts and quoting the customer up front. Start with the hinge and then go on from there depending on what they decide to do if ends up that it isn’t the only issue. Hopefully it is and you’ll be in and out fairly quickly!
- AV Repair Help answered 11 years ago
Harley, it’s not a problem to get you the parts information, I’ll add the links below for each one as well as here:
Heater: DA47-00244D
Bi Metal: DA47-00243S
Temp Sensor: DA32-00027B
Good luck on the repair!
- AV Repair Help answered 11 years ago
Somerspoint,
Without the model # my answer will be vague because I am not sure what components are in your unit.
The first thing I would check is to use your multimeter and verify that you have proper voltage supplied to the dryer. You could have lost one side of your 220 VAC and the dryer would still tumble. If that checks out, I would turn the dryer on and go outside to the vent hood and verify that there is adequate airflow outside the home.
If all that checks out okay, I would disassemble the unit and check continuity on all the heating components. If the element, and fuse or thermostat are open they would all cause no heat. On a slim chance there could be a issue with the motor or electronic control.
If you need further assistance or can provide further information just ask and I will do my best to assist.
- Sean, Ace Appliance answered 11 years ago
somerspoint,
If I’m understanding you correctly, I think you’re spot on with your diagnosis. By manually holding the door switch down you the unit will start. Will the unit call for water on its own while you are manipulating the door switch with the screwdriver? By pouring the water in yourself, you are bypassing the inlet valve. My only concern would be that the inlet valve could be the/part of the problem.
If the unit goes further into the cycle while pressing the switch down, I would definitely agree that the door switch/latch/actuator are definitely damaged in some capacity.
If you could try to depress the door switch and attempt to allow the dishwasher to fill in its own, I would feel more confident that the latch/switch/actuator is your only area of concern.
I hope this helps
- Sean, Ace Appliance answered 11 years ago
Your welcome! Glad it was an easy fix!
- Brian, Ace Appliance answered 11 years ago
found a lighter stuck in it .thanks guys.
- Guest answered 11 years ago
found a lighter stuck in it .thanks guys.
- Guest answered 11 years ago
cpaulb,
I was unable to match your model # that you gave 100%….so I went with the closest thring I could find for a reference. (You may want to double check the model # for accuracy).
Noises are the most difficult to diagnose for you over a message board…because I can’t hear it and what you describe as a whistle noise may be described differently by me or anyone else…lol
As far as noise issues with the model I looked up…this machine makes a lot of different noises/sounds than your traditional machine….and most of those are normal noises.
Often times, the drain pump can make a “gurgling” noise when it is running and there is no water left to drain out….this is a normal noise. I have seen some of the cam kits wear out prematurely, but they typically make a “grinding” noise when they fail. The gearcase can make many different noises if it fails.
Unfortunately, these are all “best guesses” in an attempt to help you troubleshoot. If you could reply with more specifics (the cycle the unit is it when it makes the noise…filling with water, agitation, spin etc. Also, double check the model # so I can be sure that we are both talking about the same model), hopefully I can assist you further!
Sean
- Sean, Ace Appliance answered 11 years ago
Something might be stuck between the tub and the basket that could be rubbing against the basket only when it rotates to the left. It is very difficult to see if something is stuck in there and also very difficult to remove.
- Brian, Ace Appliance answered 11 years ago
thanks. i’m going to look at it later. i’ll let you know what I find.
- Guest answered 11 years ago
Hi. Here is what the tech sheet has to say about the OL error.
oL flashes when the machine/motor control
detects a load size that exceeds the
washer’s capacity OR basket cannot
disengage. This may signify:
➔ Load size exceeds washer capacity. Remove
excess laundry, then restart cycle.
➔ Mechanical friction on drive mechanism,
not allowing the basket to disengage
(basket floating necessary to start agitation).
Yes, there could be friction causing the basket not to float in agitation. You should be able to lift the basket up and down freely. Check this first. Sounds like this is your issue. I would say that your RPS sensor could be faulty, but because the unit goes through spin and test cycles just fine I would not suspect the RPS sensor. Let me know if you need any further help.
- Brian, Ace Appliance answered 11 years ago
Based on what you wrote, I would guess that you may have some damage to the motor. Can you manually spin the basket by hand in both directions? I assume the answer is yes, so my next step would be to access the control panel area to look for the diagnostic and test mode information to determine the specific problem based on fact rather than my educated guess. Like I said earlier, if you can move the tub by hand, but the machine cannot move in one specific direction on its own, I would guess that there is a motor failure. Other options would be a MCU.
I hope this helps
- Sean, Ace Appliance answered 11 years ago
Hello, the OL error stands for an overload error. If the basket is not disengaging from the drive system properly, you could definitely get this error.
As far as is the tub floating up “noticeable”? It will float up about 1″. the easiest way for me to see this is to look at the gap between the top of the basket and the bottom of the tub cover. To test it I would stand slightly to the side and look into the tub through the glass lid. Start the washer on a normal cycle, allow it to fill and watch to see if it has risen.
On to your question about how to remove the basket: You need to open the top section. The seam where the top and the front panel come together, take a putty knife and there are “hidden” release tabs about 1″ in from each side. Depress those tabs while pulling the top up (use caution to hold the lid as it has springs inside that will make it “fly” up. I use duct tape to tape the lid closed and prevent damage). Once the top is up, you can remove the cap on the center of the washplate which then exposes a bolt that holds the washplate down. Remove the bolt and then pull the washplate up. Now you must remove the tub cover, there will be one hose with a spring clamp in the 10 o’clock position, remove the hose and the clamp. Then there will be multiple tabs which snap the tub cover onto the outer tub. Remove the tub cover. In theory you should be able to grab the basket and pull it straight up and remove it. Typically, because of corrosion, you can’t….at least easily. (This is the same action that happens when the basket “floats up” for agitation. So, in theory, if you cannot pull the tub up….it probably can’t “float” up either and could be causing your error.
The manufacturer would recommend that you replace the driveshaft assembly if this is the case. Part # w10435302 you will also need a special tool to install and remove the driveshaft part # W10447783
Hopefully this helps
- Sean, Ace Appliance answered 11 years ago
Billrod, If you need any parts call our parts department at 1-800-830-5465 or order on line at http://www.savemoreonparts.com
These are the steps to diagnose your problem per the manufacturer for your stated error. It is rather lengthy. This information should be “hidden” on your washer probably under the top panel if its easier to follow that way. Here is a link ti 15 Maytag repair videos … https://www.appliancevideo.com/appliances/00-mhw6000x/
Sean
MCU ERROR – MULTIPLE RESETS
Motor Control Unit (MCU) has an internal malfunction, repeating under or over voltage, or over current
conditions. Can also be caused by momentary loss of neutral feed to MCU during the spin cycle. If the
error occurs during a high-speed spin, the door will remain locked for 3 minutes.
Possible Causes
• See TEST #3 (Motor Circuit) on page 15
TEST #3: Motor Circuit
This test checks the motor, motor control unit
(MCU), and wiring.
IMPORTANT: A guide (W10271535) is
required to assemble the rotor onto the shaft.
The guide is inserted into the threaded hole,
and then the rotor is slid on over the guide.
NOTE: If the harness between the CCU and
MCU is removed or communications are
interrupted during operation, the MCU puts
the motor into a braking mode, resulting in a
significant drag on the drum when turned by
hand. This mode can be cleared by removing
power from the washer for a few seconds.
1. Check the motor and electrical connections
by performing the “Quick Diagnostic Test” on
page 6. The following steps assume that this
step was unsuccessful.
2. Unplug washer or disconnect power.
3. Check to see if basket will turn freely.
If basket turns freely, go to step 4.
If basket does not turn freely, determine what
is causing the mechanical friction or lockup.
4. Remove the top and rear panels to access
the machine electronics and motor components.
5. Visually check that connectors MS2 and MI3
are inserted all the way into the CCU. Refer to
CCU diagram on page 13.
If visual checks pass, go to step 6.
If visual checks fail, reconnect MS2 and
MI3, and repeat step 1.
6. Visually check that all connectors are inserted
all the way into the MCU (see Figure 6, at left).
If visual checks pass, go to step 7.
If visual checks fail, reconnect the
MCU connectors and repeat step 1.
7. Check the motor windings. Disconnect the
motor harness from the MCU. With an ohmmeter,
verify the resistance values as shown below:
If the values are outside the range or open,
replace stator assembly; otherwise, reconnect
the motor harness and go to step 8.
8. Check the two harnesses between the
CCU and MCU for continuity.
If there is continuity, go to step 9.
If there is no continuity, replace the main
lower harness.
9. With a voltmeter set to AC, connect the
leads across pins 1 and 2 of connector MS2.
10. Plug in washer or reconnect power.
11. Run the “Quick Diagnostic Test” on page
6. IMPORTANT: Door must be closed and
locked to run motor.
Motor Harness Windings
Pins 1 & 2 8.5 – 14.0 Ω
Pins 2 & 3 8.5 – 14.0 Ω
Pins 1 & 3 8.5 – 14.0 Ω
If the values are outside the range or open,
replace stator assembly; otherwise, reconnect
the motor harness and go to step 8.
8. Check the two harnesses between the
CCU and MCU for continuity.
If there is continuity, go to step 9.
If there is no continuity, replace the main
lower harness.
9. With a voltmeter set to AC, connect the
leads across pins 1 and 2 of connector MS2.
10. Plug in washer or reconnect power.
11. Run the “Quick Diagnostic Test” on page
6. IMPORTANT: Door must be closed and
locked to run motor.
12. When the test shows “C05 & C08” on the
display, the motor is powered and line voltage
from the CCU should be present across pins
1 & 2 of connector MS2.
If line voltage is present, replace the MCU.
If line voltage is not present, replace the CCU.
13. Unplug washer or disconnect power.
14. Reassemble all parts and panels.
15. Perform the “Quick Diagnostic Test”
on page 6 to verify repair
QUICK DIAGNOSTIC TEST
NOTE: The Service Diagnostic mode must be
activated before entering the Quick Diagnostic
Test; see procedure on page 4. If, at any point,
the user presses the POWER button, the
washer exits to standby mode.
Active Fault Code Display
in Quick Diagnostic Test
If the display begins flashing while in the Quick
Diagnostic Test, it is displaying an active fault
code. Active fault codes are codes that are
currently detected. Only one active fault code
can be displayed at a time.
i Press power button at any time to exit i
Entry Procedure
To enter the Quick Diagnostic Test, press and
release the 2nd button used to activate the
Service Diagnostic mode. The power button
indicator turns on and the start button indicator
begins to flash. Press the START button to
perform the Quick Diagnostics tests listed below.
Each test phase is indicated on the display.
IMPORTANT: If entry into Quick Diagnostics
is performed too quickly after activating the
Service Diagnostic mode, the test will not start.
Exit Procedure
To exit Quick Diagnostics, press the POWER
button, or press and hold the 1st button used
to activate Service Diagnostic mode for 5
seconds.
C00 * Door lock motor is actuated. Door
unlocks, and then locks again.
Pump is activated for 15 seconds.*
• Door Lock System
• Drain Pump*
on completion ONLY.
C01 †
steam models
only
Heater is turned on.
Steam valve is actuated.
• Heater
• Steam Valve
• Temperature Sensor
on completion or at key press.
C02 Cold water valve will actuate. • Cold Water Valve
• Flow Meter (Steam only)
on completion or at key press.
C03 Dispensing system is set to the Prewash
position #1.
• Dispenser Motor
• Dispenser Contact
on completion ONLY.
C04 Hot water valve will actuate. • Hot Water Valve
• Flow Meter (Steam only)
on completion or at key press.
C05 Drum rotates clockwise at wash speed. • Motor
• Motor Control Unit (MCU)
on completion or at key press.
C06 ‡ Heater is turned on to heat water
to pre-set temperature level.
Drum rotates clockwise and counterclockwise
at wash speed.
Water valve is activated to fill drum to
minimum water volume required to
wash. (If there is enough water in the
drum, the water valve will not turn on.)
• Heater
• Temperature Sensor
• Motor
• Motor Control Unit
• Cold Water Valve (if needed)
• Pressure Sensor/Switch
on completion or at key press.
C07 Drain Pump is actuated until there is no
water in the system—plus an additional
15 seconds.
• Drain Pump
• Pressure Sensor/Switch
on completion or at key press.
Drum rotates counter-clockwise from 35
rpm > 100 rpm > 150 rpm > 100 rpm in
~ 1-1/2 minutes.
• Motor
• Motor Control Unit
on completion ONLY.
Drum rotates counter-clockwise at
maximum speed.
Door lock motor is actuated. Door
unlocks.
• Motor
• Motor Control Unit
• Door Lock System
on completion or press of the
power button.
C08
QUICK DIAGNOSTIC TEST
QUICK DIAGNOSTIC TEST NOTES:
*C00 – For STEAM models, the drain pump is activated as part of the APS (Analog Pressure Sensor) calibration routine. For NON-STEAM
models, the drain pump is only activated if the CCU detects a significant amount of water in the tub. Drain time will depend on water in tub.
† C01 – This test phase is performed only on STEAM models. NON-STEAM models skip this test.
‡ C06 – This test will run until a pre-set temperature level is reached. Water temperature will affect the duration of the test.
- Sean, Ace Appliance answered 11 years ago
- last active 10 years ago
Stewart, I am unable to locate the wiring schematic for your unit. However, based on looking at available parts for your unit I would have 3 possibilities.
1. Bad/Open thermal fuse (part # 6930W1A003X) – from the breakdown it appears this is located on the back of the oven. To test it you would unplug the oven from the wall, access component, remove one wire from the thermal fuse and then using a multimeter check the thermal fuse for continuity.
2. Bad electronic control and/or sub pcb – to check this component you would use your multimeter and check to be sure you are getting the proper voltage into the component
3. Broken/Damaged wiring
If you could post an image of your wiring schematic which should be found on the range I can attempt to help you further/more detailed and accurate information. Without the schematic I am unable to verify the path that electricity flows on your particular product. I hope this helps in some way.
Sean
- Sean, Ace Appliance answered 11 years ago
Bosch/Thermador information is not as available as many of the other manufactures as you know. Typically we use the link below to get more information on the appliances. 🙂
- AV Repair Help answered 11 years ago
