All Answers

The water filter head can also clog up. A sign of this would be poor pressure through the dispenser even though the supply pressure seems OK. Being as the filter head is upstream of the water supply, it may be the solution. Try removing the filter and use a filter plug to see if the water flow improve, if so then change the filter head.It sounds, like the, water valve did your ohm the coils as check the wiring diagram does the circuit feed through ice maker ? The filter bypass will not change the way the head reacts. the head could be plugged or the little pins on the head that the filter pushes in could be worn.

Fred,

If any of the parts in the heating series are open you will get the same result. You will need a multimeter to check the resistance of all heating components…heating element, thermal fuse(s), thermister and/or thermostats. You would need to disconnect one wire to each component and check for continuity/resistance to confirm that each component is good.

Hopefully this helps

The first thing I would start with is to ohm out the gas valve if I hear the relay close in the control board and I perceive the igniters are good. There are probably 4 terminals on the gas valve (2 on top and 2 on bottom). Disconnect 1 wire from each side (with unit unplugged) and check for resistance on both sides of the valve. Each side should have continuity between the 2 terminals on each side of the valve. If that shows open you need to replace the gas valve. If the valve checks out ok, I would then check to see how much voltage is being sent out of the corresponding relay on the control when bake or broil are selected. There should only be 3 parts in the baking/broiling sequence – ignters, valve and electronic control.

I hope this helps!

You should be able to bypass the door switch in order to make sure the unit will function. If you take the door apart, you can access the door switch to bypass it and push the door liner closed so the unit doesn’t leak on you. I would verify all functions of the unit before I would replace the hinge. The only way I can see the hinge being the cause of the unit not starting would be that the damaged hinge is preventing the door from closing – thus the door switch is NOT being actuated.

Sean

Brian, without the model I can’t give you exact part information, but I have one here that I think is similar. Take a look below and let me know (DD97-00131A): Water Level Sensor. If so, then simply go to our parts link savemoreonparts.com and you can do the lookup from there with your model number and find the exact one you need.

We actually find this to be a common issue with freezers not cooling that have no evident mechanical problems. If the door is jammed open, even a tiny bit, by a bag of frozen vegetables or a box, etc… you’ll get a lot of condensation and thawing. Sometimes, it’s also caused by the the door being misaligned or broken and worn down hinges. I’d inspect the door itself and it’s parts and go from there. Sometimes removing the blockage and keep it closed up will solve the issue itself, but hinges or door fixes may be the next step if that fails to correct it.

Fred, the heater assembly (5301DD1001G) could be bad, we sometimes have to get replacements for parts that fail right away. If you’ve replaced the main board and it’s testing fine, then I’d assume the heater again. I’ll attach the video for you to ensure it’s being installed/replaced correctly. These can be tricky since the spots to work in are so tight. Let us know if there’s anything else we can do for you from here!

We do, here are the requested parts & their availability/pricing:

Thermistor: 35001191
Thermal Fuse: DC47-00016A

Good luck on the repair!

It’s very possible the door hinge would solve your entire problem (4775ER2002A). In some cases, the door closes, but it doesn’t communicate that with it off course, so the unit will fail to start. I’d suggest pricing both possible parts and quoting the customer up front. Start with the hinge and then go on from there depending on what they decide to do if ends up that it isn’t the only issue. Hopefully it is and you’ll be in and out fairly quickly!

Harley, it’s not a problem to get you the parts information, I’ll add the links below for each one as well as here:

Heater: DA47-00244D
Bi Metal: DA47-00243S
Temp Sensor: DA32-00027B

Good luck on the repair!

Somerspoint,

Without the model # my answer will be vague because I am not sure what components are in your unit.
The first thing I would check is to use your multimeter and verify that you have proper voltage supplied to the dryer. You could have lost one side of your 220 VAC and the dryer would still tumble. If that checks out, I would turn the dryer on and go outside to the vent hood and verify that there is adequate airflow outside the home.
If all that checks out okay, I would disassemble the unit and check continuity on all the heating components. If the element, and fuse or thermostat are open they would all cause no heat. On a slim chance there could be a issue with the motor or electronic control.
If you need further assistance or can provide further information just ask and I will do my best to assist.

somerspoint,

If I’m understanding you correctly, I think you’re spot on with your diagnosis. By manually holding the door switch down you the unit will start. Will the unit call for water on its own while you are manipulating the door switch with the screwdriver? By pouring the water in yourself, you are bypassing the inlet valve. My only concern would be that the inlet valve could be the/part of the problem.
If the unit goes further into the cycle while pressing the switch down, I would definitely agree that the door switch/latch/actuator are definitely damaged in some capacity.
If you could try to depress the door switch and attempt to allow the dishwasher to fill in its own, I would feel more confident that the latch/switch/actuator is your only area of concern.

I hope this helps

found a lighter stuck in it .thanks guys.

found a lighter stuck in it .thanks guys.

Something might be stuck between the tub and the basket that could be rubbing against the basket only when it rotates to the left. It is very difficult to see if something is stuck in there and also very difficult to remove.

thanks. i’m going to look at it later. i’ll let you know what I find.

Based on what you wrote, I would guess that you may have some damage to the motor. Can you manually spin the basket by hand in both directions? I assume the answer is yes, so my next step would be to access the control panel area to look for the diagnostic and test mode information to determine the specific problem based on fact rather than my educated guess. Like I said earlier, if you can move the tub by hand, but the machine cannot move in one specific direction on its own, I would guess that there is a motor failure. Other options would be a MCU.

I hope this helps