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Billrod, If you need any parts call our parts department at 1-800-830-5465 or order on line at http://www.savemoreonparts.com
These are the steps to diagnose your problem per the manufacturer for your stated error. It is rather lengthy. This information should be “hidden” on your washer probably under the top panel if its easier to follow that way. Here is a link ti 15 Maytag repair videos … https://www.appliancevideo.com/appliances/00-mhw6000x/

Sean

MCU ERROR – MULTIPLE RESETS
Motor Control Unit (MCU) has an internal malfunction, repeating under or over voltage, or over current
conditions. Can also be caused by momentary loss of neutral feed to MCU during the spin cycle. If the
error occurs during a high-speed spin, the door will remain locked for 3 minutes.
Possible Causes
• See TEST #3 (Motor Circuit) on page 15

TEST #3: Motor Circuit
This test checks the motor, motor control unit
(MCU), and wiring.
IMPORTANT: A guide (W10271535) is
required to assemble the rotor onto the shaft.
The guide is inserted into the threaded hole,
and then the rotor is slid on over the guide.
NOTE: If the harness between the CCU and
MCU is removed or communications are
interrupted during operation, the MCU puts
the motor into a braking mode, resulting in a
significant drag on the drum when turned by
hand. This mode can be cleared by removing
power from the washer for a few seconds.
1. Check the motor and electrical connections
by performing the “Quick Diagnostic Test” on
page 6. The following steps assume that this
step was unsuccessful.
2. Unplug washer or disconnect power.
3. Check to see if basket will turn freely.
 If basket turns freely, go to step 4.
 If basket does not turn freely, determine what
is causing the mechanical friction or lockup.
4. Remove the top and rear panels to access
the machine electronics and motor components.
5. Visually check that connectors MS2 and MI3
are inserted all the way into the CCU. Refer to
CCU diagram on page 13.
 If visual checks pass, go to step 6.
 If visual checks fail, reconnect MS2 and
MI3, and repeat step 1.
6. Visually check that all connectors are inserted
all the way into the MCU (see Figure 6, at left).
 If visual checks pass, go to step 7.
 If visual checks fail, reconnect the
MCU connectors and repeat step 1.
7. Check the motor windings. Disconnect the
motor harness from the MCU. With an ohmmeter,
verify the resistance values as shown below:
 If the values are outside the range or open,
replace stator assembly; otherwise, reconnect
the motor harness and go to step 8.
8. Check the two harnesses between the
CCU and MCU for continuity.
 If there is continuity, go to step 9.
 If there is no continuity, replace the main
lower harness.
9. With a voltmeter set to AC, connect the
leads across pins 1 and 2 of connector MS2.
10. Plug in washer or reconnect power.
11. Run the “Quick Diagnostic Test” on page
6. IMPORTANT: Door must be closed and
locked to run motor.
Motor Harness Windings
Pins 1 & 2 8.5 – 14.0 Ω
Pins 2 & 3 8.5 – 14.0 Ω
Pins 1 & 3 8.5 – 14.0 Ω
 If the values are outside the range or open,
replace stator assembly; otherwise, reconnect
the motor harness and go to step 8.
8. Check the two harnesses between the
CCU and MCU for continuity.
 If there is continuity, go to step 9.
 If there is no continuity, replace the main
lower harness.
9. With a voltmeter set to AC, connect the
leads across pins 1 and 2 of connector MS2.
10. Plug in washer or reconnect power.
11. Run the “Quick Diagnostic Test” on page
6. IMPORTANT: Door must be closed and
locked to run motor.
12. When the test shows “C05 & C08” on the
display, the motor is powered and line voltage
from the CCU should be present across pins
1 & 2 of connector MS2.
 If line voltage is present, replace the MCU.
 If line voltage is not present, replace the CCU.
13. Unplug washer or disconnect power.
14. Reassemble all parts and panels.
15. Perform the “Quick Diagnostic Test”
on page 6 to verify repair

QUICK DIAGNOSTIC TEST
NOTE: The Service Diagnostic mode must be
activated before entering the Quick Diagnostic
Test; see procedure on page 4. If, at any point,
the user presses the POWER button, the
washer exits to standby mode.
Active Fault Code Display
in Quick Diagnostic Test
If the display begins flashing while in the Quick
Diagnostic Test, it is displaying an active fault
code. Active fault codes are codes that are
currently detected. Only one active fault code
can be displayed at a time.
i Press power button at any time to exit i

Entry Procedure
To enter the Quick Diagnostic Test, press and
release the 2nd button used to activate the
Service Diagnostic mode. The power button
indicator turns on and the start button indicator
begins to flash. Press the START button to
perform the Quick Diagnostics tests listed below.
Each test phase is indicated on the display.
IMPORTANT: If entry into Quick Diagnostics
is performed too quickly after activating the
Service Diagnostic mode, the test will not start.
Exit Procedure
To exit Quick Diagnostics, press the POWER
button, or press and hold the 1st button used
to activate Service Diagnostic mode for 5
seconds.

C00 * Door lock motor is actuated. Door
unlocks, and then locks again.
Pump is activated for 15 seconds.*
• Door Lock System
• Drain Pump*
on completion ONLY.
C01 †
steam models
only
Heater is turned on.
Steam valve is actuated.
• Heater
• Steam Valve
• Temperature Sensor
on completion or at key press.
C02 Cold water valve will actuate. • Cold Water Valve
• Flow Meter (Steam only)
on completion or at key press.
C03 Dispensing system is set to the Prewash
position #1.
• Dispenser Motor
• Dispenser Contact
on completion ONLY.
C04 Hot water valve will actuate. • Hot Water Valve
• Flow Meter (Steam only)
on completion or at key press.
C05 Drum rotates clockwise at wash speed. • Motor
• Motor Control Unit (MCU)
on completion or at key press.
C06 ‡ Heater is turned on to heat water
to pre-set temperature level.
Drum rotates clockwise and counterclockwise
at wash speed.
Water valve is activated to fill drum to
minimum water volume required to
wash. (If there is enough water in the
drum, the water valve will not turn on.)
• Heater
• Temperature Sensor
• Motor
• Motor Control Unit
• Cold Water Valve (if needed)
• Pressure Sensor/Switch
on completion or at key press.
C07 Drain Pump is actuated until there is no
water in the system—plus an additional
15 seconds.
• Drain Pump
• Pressure Sensor/Switch
on completion or at key press.
Drum rotates counter-clockwise from 35
rpm > 100 rpm > 150 rpm > 100 rpm in
~ 1-1/2 minutes.
• Motor
• Motor Control Unit
on completion ONLY.
Drum rotates counter-clockwise at
maximum speed.
Door lock motor is actuated. Door
unlocks.
• Motor
• Motor Control Unit
• Door Lock System
on completion or press of the
power button.
C08
QUICK DIAGNOSTIC TEST
QUICK DIAGNOSTIC TEST NOTES:
*C00 – For STEAM models, the drain pump is activated as part of the APS (Analog Pressure Sensor) calibration routine. For NON-STEAM
models, the drain pump is only activated if the CCU detects a significant amount of water in the tub. Drain time will depend on water in tub.
† C01 – This test phase is performed only on STEAM models. NON-STEAM models skip this test.
‡ C06 – This test will run until a pre-set temperature level is reached. Water temperature will affect the duration of the test.

Stewart, I am unable to locate the wiring schematic for your unit. However, based on looking at available parts for your unit I would have 3 possibilities.
1. Bad/Open thermal fuse (part # 6930W1A003X) – from the breakdown it appears this is located on the back of the oven. To test it you would unplug the oven from the wall, access component, remove one wire from the thermal fuse and then using a multimeter check the thermal fuse for continuity.
2. Bad electronic control and/or sub pcb – to check this component you would use your multimeter and check to be sure you are getting the proper voltage into the component
3. Broken/Damaged wiring

If you could post an image of your wiring schematic which should be found on the range I can attempt to help you further/more detailed and accurate information. Without the schematic I am unable to verify the path that electricity flows on your particular product. I hope this helps in some way.

Sean

Bosch/Thermador information is not as available as many of the other manufactures as you know. Typically we use the link below to get more information on the appliances. 🙂

This sounds like a spark module but you’ll have to check it physically or take the spark module with you. Part # is PA020047 and I’ll add purchase information below for you. Good luck!

See link to repair video .. https://www.youtube.com/edit?o=U&video_id=8PGBTmfTpMI

We’ve had a couple that the after all else checked out, it ended up being the float switch/housing area was clogged up with some small debris, causing it to not always read the water level correctly, even if there is the proper amount in there. The unit normally quits and won’t finish the cycle until it’s corrected. Then you can clear the errors and run a test cycle. Let us know if this works!

David, this is most likely the main pcb board or relay, part # is 6871W1N012B. I’ll add the information for it below. See if you can get the panel off to access and check it before ordering but I’m betting that’s your issue.

James, I added a video I found that should be very close to the one you described. You can definitely handle this on your own I think. I also added part information and pricing if you haven’t already bought the replacement for it. Let us know if we can do anything else!

Gary, does it seem to not be getting enough power to actually come on? If so I’d bet it’s the primary micro switch. Start there and see if it’s failed. I’ll add part pricing and availability below for you in case you need it.

There are 4 rollers, 2 in the front and 2 in the back, I’ll add a repair and diagnostic video below for you as well as part information. They are very noisy once they are shot.

It’s very possible that it didn’t start due to the broken belt, if you’ve replaced that you can always reassemble and leave off the cabinet until you make sure it all checks out. And it’s a good idea to always clean out dryers while you’re inside them repairing something, that lint build up can be extremely dangerous. Hope this helps!

Brian, this is typically fixed by replacing the ice fan motor, part # ABA72913413, but occasionally there’s an issue with the main pcb, part # EBR73093617, as well. If you haven’t been out to diagnose, I’d say this may be one that you want to ensure what you need before ordering. But if you do want to take both with you, I’ll attach information below to purchase. Good luck!

So glad to be of service! And we can definitely help you out here. We don’t have videos to reference but part information is:

Evaporator Fan Motor: g5098660
FF Fan Motor: 12075003

Hope this gets you back on track for this repair! Good luck.

We’re happy to help you out on this, the part number you’re looking for is DA97-07365G. I’ll add the information below as well as a Repair/Diagnostic Video for the same part. The more you work on them, the better you’ll be!

Since there are all lights on and I you can’t enter the test mode. I assume lid lock, or actuator and then again it could be the board. Start with the lid lock, or actuator.

Have you tried calling LG tech support? Anytime I have any LG questions I find their tech support to be very helpful. 800-847-7597 You will need model #, SN, name and phone number of the customer. When I researched the 72023 on the LG site under the parts breakdowns for both ASTCSE0 and ASTCSE1 they both refer to the main board part number as EBR67348003 for replacement.

These lookups can be time consuming. The part # you’ll need for the module is 395627USP. We do not have the capabilities of providing a purchase link yet for this, and don’t have a repair video either. I’m hoping since you’re this far into you won’t have a problem replacing it without our help. Good luck!

Harley, you’re right in starting there, we call it a pcb assembly and the part # is DC92-00322E. I’ve added the information below as well as a diagnostic video that should help as well. Good luck!

Harley, the part I found is a bearing kit (WE49X20697), and the info is linked below. Hope this helps!

Is the carpet wet in any particular spot? Perhaps a crack in the down tube in the wall and seeping under the carpet.There’s a chance everything could be leaking….however, I would replace the drain pump. They may work fine as long as the seals are turning, such as during a cycle, but after the unit sits a bit, they tend to drip. Look for tell tale signs across the face of the pump. Corrosion on the motor shaft there is another sign. Slip the cabinet off and pop the pump clips to verify.What I typically do in a situation like this is ask the customer for a load of clothes then fill/start a cycle without adding detergent. While it’s agitating check to see if you see suds which would indicate she is using too much detergent & over suds the machine. Also check to make sure that brake assembly is fully engaged and the tub is not turning/spinning at the same time it’s agitating. Were you washing at the time of leak, sometimes a down comforter, pillow, jacket, etc. can float to the top of tub and cause fill spout to splash water over the back. Also, a slow drain can cause back-up of water especially if there is a floor drain connected to same plumbing as wall standpipe. For this test, use full tub of water with detergent to see if there is a back-up. Listen for standpipe or drain filling toward the top of its limit.