All Answers

F50 and F51 Errors indicate that the RPS sensor is not reading that the tub is spinning, or the tub is not spinning correctly. You can put the machine into a Manual diagnostic mode to check the motor and electrical connections. (The Press and hold for 3 seconds, release for 3, Press and hold for 3, release for 3, press and hold for 3 seconds routine) This test will help determine if the rotor and RPS sensors are eccentrically functioning correctly. You will also want to check to make sure there are no obstructions between the basket and tub. If the tub feels like there is too much resistance when spinning manually, you may want to remove the inner basket and check for clothing or other obstructions lodged between the tubs tying up the basket on spin. There was an update to the RPS Sensor since the original release it does come with a new harness, plate, and instructions for what was changed.

If you need more help with getting the machine into that diagnostic mode let us know and we will get you some more details. 🙂

Good luck!

Unbalanced Load Sensor•Accurate measuring of unbalance by deviation of spin speedandslow down time of drum•Infinite adapting of spin speeds•Compensates reducing of spin speeds by prolonging spinning times•Will attempt up to 15 times to redistribute a load”
Also one of 2 things when you took the top off did you see what looked like dust on the out tub. that it a sign that the motor brush’s have worn you have to change motor. you can put into diagnostics hold menu and select button down , while there down turn time,control from 12 o’clock back one turn to 11 o’clock release the buttons you will be ito diagnostic move press the select button each time you willl go throw e fault codes will come up with a e- c- the c is the numbere of times it happened

On the 700 series dryers Asko came out with a bulletin to bypass the fuses. We were told this only applied to the 700 series dryers. There are 2 different fuse set ups on Asko, a newer style used on the 700 dryers and 600 washers, the other style is used on older products. If you want to replace I believe that we have both styles in stock, we would just need a model number to kj now which one. Let me know if you need.

Yes. You will need to replace the control board. Check to see if any wiring was damages and repair/ replace if needed. If the control panel was not damaged there should be no need to replace it. With a valid model number i will be able to look up parts for you.

Hi. The first thing I would check is that you have proper power to the unit. I was not able to look this model number up. Some units have a thermal fuse and even a control compartment fuse. Both of these will trip if the oven over heats. This will cause the oven to not function until the fuse is replaced.

I would lean towards the console assembly. Usually when you get some buttons that do not respond or work on the console its a faulty console and not the board. I would replace the console.

The FE error code on this washer stands for an overfill error. Water is overflowing (water level frequency is over 213). If displayed, the drain pump will operate to drain the water automatically. So if you water inlet valve is sticking in the open position causing the unit to fill with water it will cause this error code. Seems like the inlet valve is a common issue on these washers. Have you noticed that the washer fills with water when off? Or overfilled? If so you could need a new inlet valve. There are two valves. If you can determine which one is sticking replace that one. The cold water valve is the triple valve. Here is the steps listed for this error code in the LG service guide. I have attached a repair video and links to the valves to assist you.

When you press both CUSTOM button and PRE-WASH button simultaneously, is the water level frequency below 24.6 kHz? IF yes then Check the AIR CHAMBER and the tube (clogged).
Is filter inlet valve clogged with foreign material? If so Clean or replace the filter.
Is the connector connected to inlet valve assembly disconnected or disassembled?
Is resistance between each terminal of INLET VALVE ASSEMBLY 0.8-1.2 kΩ? (Refer to 9-5 inlet valve assembly). If not with in range replace inlet valve assembly.
Is the voltage of the inlet valve connector 120 V AC? (Check the all terminal of INLET VALVE ASSEMBLY while the power is on.) If so Replace the INLET VALVE ASSEMBLY.
Is the connector connected to MAIN PWB assembly disconnected or disassembled?(NA4, BL3, BL4) IF so Reconnect or repair the connector.
Is Electrical connection correct? (Refer to 9-5 wiring diagram) IF not Replace the MAIN HARNESS
After checking connector, is the water level frequency below 24.6 kHz?
If so check the pressure switch.
IF not Replace the MAIN PWB ASSEMBLY.

Dorothy, this is a relatively easy part to replace. It’s your igniter and I’ll add a video and part information for purchase below. Should get you up and running again quickly.

Mica, this is a communication error between the two control boards, or between one of those controls and another component of the washer. We normally order both boards (ccu & mcu) because sometimes we only need one, but we do use both occasionally as well. It is a very costly repair. The checks to determine which is failing is very time consuming and frustrating so we opt to just replace one or both and get the washer working again. If you’d like a video we can track one down. Let us know.

Jillian, this is most likely a bad drain pump. I’ll list the part information below if you’d like to replace it yourself. We don’t have any videos specific to this part number but we can find you a similar one if necessary. Let us know.

I agree. If you are not getting good air flow it will cause your heat to short cycle. You will see the flame and then it will go off after a few seconds. If your venting is clear and your blowing good air out of the back of the dryer, I would replace the gas coils. When coils fail they will still work when they are cold at the beginning of a cycle. As they warm up they fail and cause no heat until they cool down again. Attached is a link to the coils and a video for the repair.

It definitely sounds like a defrost issue. Your unit is not self defrosting. There are a few parts to a defrost system. You have your defrost heater, defrost T-stat, sensor, and control board. The tech sheet should be located under the toe or kick panel. This will have tests that you can perform for the defrost system. IF you can manually put the unit into defrost you have a bad control board. If not, You will need to verify what part is at fault. I have replaced many control boards for this issue. attached is a video to help you as well as a link to the part if needed.

Hi. It sounds like you may have a timer issue. First we need to make sure you have good water pressure to the unit. When you pull the timer out to start a cycle you should get power to your inlet valve. Try selecting different water temps when you have a cycle started to see if you are getting hot or cold water. I am assuming that at least your cold water is working because you stated that when the rinse cycle is selected you get some water into the unit before spin. We can also rule out the lid switch and more than likely the pressure switch as well. See if you are getting power to the inlet valve when a cycle is started. IF not you probably have a bad timer. I have attached a couple repair videos to help you as well as links for your parts. IF you need any further help, please let me know.

if you give me a model number i can specifically guide you through this issue but a simple approach is first do we know if the ice maker is cycling ,ie attempting to make ice if so when it cycles you can put your ear against the cabinet and listen for the hum of the solinoid on the valve you installed be sure to check the tube that passses the water into the ice maker is not a solid tube of ice stopping water flow hope that helps

sounds like you may have a sensor bar wire that became unplugged you will need to open it back up and check for unplugged wires to sensor bars and thermostats