All Answers

Terry, it sounds like your dispenser assembly is plugged.
1) Separate the dispenser cup from the cover by grasping the top and pushing down on the inside of the cup with your fingers. Dispenser cup will pop free from the cover.
2) To clean the dispenser, soak both the dispenser cup and the dispenser cover in the following solution: 1 US gallon (3.8 liters) warm water
1/4 cup (60 ml) heavy duty liquid detergent
1 cup (240 ml) bleach
3) If necessary, loosen build-up with a clean, soft cloth after soaking. Do not use a stiff brush; you may roughen the surface of the dispenser.
4) .Rinse and reassemble dispenser. Place dispenser back on the agitator.
Nonremovable Dispensers:
Make a solution of hot water and liquid detergent. Pour into the dispenser. If the washer has a warm rinse option, use the warm setting and run the washer through the rinse cycle two or three times. If the washer only has cold rinse, pour hot sudsy water into the dispenser between rinses.

If you are in need of any parts please support our parts department on line at http://savemoreonparts.com/ or call 1-800-830-5465 7-days a week until 11pm Eastern time. Thanks Matt Ace service technician.

Diego, I have provided a parts list along with two videos that will correct your issue. Please review the videos and email us back with any questions. If you are in need of any parts please support our parts department on line at http://savemoreonparts.com/ or call 1-800-830-5465 7-days a week until 11pm Eastern time. Thanks Matt Ace service technician.

What could be going on is ether the motor switch is stuck so its heating when off or heating element is shorted .That can make part of the element to heat even when off. Thanks

Alvin, sometimes this happens from using too much soap. but occasionally your dishwasher may need to be ran on a short wash cycle without any soap to clear out what’s in there. You can also do any empty wash cycle with some white vinegar to cut down the soap and get the dishwasher cleaned out.

Marcia, this would be the motor/sump assembly, and it is quite large. We do replace them and I’ll add the part information below. I don’t have a video on this specific one but will add a similar repair job.

Marion, this is most likely a drain that needs cleared. When your freezer goes through the defrost cycle, that water has no where to drain to. So it pools in the bottom, then freezes and thaws, over and over again. Try and get some hot water down the drain. If it doesn’t fix it, you may need to empty it and unplug it to defrost for 24 hours. Hope this helps!

Robert, we actually do a lot of hinge kits and additional washer replacements on doors. If they’ve worn down on one hinge or side, it will cause the door to hang off center and not close correctly. Eventually it can cause cooling issues as well when warm air gets inside. Start off by checking each hinge and ensure pieces are all still there, and work from there. May need one hinge or both.

What you want to check is during cycle that doesn’t spin the timer should pause after drain and that pause shifts transmission in spin if it doesn’t pause it wont spin. When you open and close the lid you are shifting trans into spin mode.If the timer is not pausing you will need to change it.

William, if opening and closing the door actually helps it start occasionally, I’m guessing it’s that door switch that recognizes the door is closed before beginning the load inside. I’ll add the part information below but check that first.

Pattie, there could be an issue with the main control, but if the door lock does feel a little loose then I’m assuming it’s an issue with your door latch itself. I’ll add the information for the part below. I couldn’t find a video showing how to replace this part specifically but can add one that is similar. Good luck!

The lower end models fill water level you choose.The higher end models sense how much of a load is there and fill accordingly.The older direct drive fill to level you choose also.Higher end new models will adjust time of cycle to load size also.Hope this is what you were looking for. Thanks

I had the same issue and found the problem with soap dispenser, dispenser motor constantly turning and not finding pre-wash position. After making all the checks according to the service literature, it suggests replacing the main control board. Apart from that suggestion I found the tracer circuit bad going to the switch for the position sensor on dispenser motor.

David, I’ll add a video below that should help you determine whether it is the bearing. Will be very similar in sound hopefully. Also, those felt pads, we call glides, or slides. And if they have come off or worn through they can be replaced as well. They do cause some noise themselves if gone. I’ll post the parts below for you should you need them., just be sure to get 2 of each.

Check the model serial tag on the left tub flange to
confirm the dishwasher requires the TCO shield kit.Dishwasher Models Prefix of Serial Numbers
PDW9200J00, 01, 03, 10
PDW9280J00, 03, 10
PDW9700J00, 03, 10
PDW9800J00, 01, 03, 10
PDW9880J00, 03, 10
MF, RF, SF, TF, VF, ZF, AG, DG,
FG, GG, HG, LG, MG, RG, SG, TG,
VG, ZG, AH, DH, FH, GH, HH, LH,
MH, RH
ZBD6800K00, 03, 10
AG, DG, FG, GG, HG, LG, MG, RG,
SG, TG, VG, ZG, AH, DH, FH, GH,
HH, LH, MH, RH, SH, TH, VH, ZH,
AL, DL, FL, GL, HL, LL, ML, RL
ZBD6880K00, 03, 10
AG, DG, FG, GG, HG, LG, MG, RG,
SG, TG, VG, ZG, AH, DH, FH, GH,
HH, LH, MH, RH, SH, TH, VH, ZH,
AL, DL, FL, GL, HL, LL, ML, RL, SL,
TL, VL, ZL
ZBD6890K00, 01, 03, 10
DG, FG, GG, HG, LG, MG, RG, SG,
TG, VG, ZG, AH, DH, FH, GH, HH,
LH, MH, RH, SH, TH, VH, ZH, AL,
DL, FL, GL, HL, LL, ML, RL, SL
ZBD0700K01, 03, 10
VG, ZG, AH, DH, FH, GH, HH, LH,
MH, RH, SH, TH, VH, ZH, AL, DL,
FL, GL, HL, LL, ML, RL, SL
ZBD0710K01, 03, 10
RG, SG, TG, VG, ZG, AH, DH, FH,
GH, HH, LH, MH, RH, SH, TH, VH,
ZH, AL, DL, FL, GL, HL, LL, ML, RL,
SL, TL, VL
MF, RF, SF, TF, VF, ZF, AG, DG,
FG, GG, HG, LG, MG, RG, SG, TG,
VG, ZG, AH, DH, FH, GH, HH, LH,
MH, RH
MF, RF, SF, TF, VF, ZF, AG, DG,
FG, GG, HG, LG, MG, RG, SG, TG,
VG, ZG, AH, DH, FH, GH, HH, LH,
MH, RH, SH, TH
MF, RF, SF, TF, VF, ZF, AG, DG,
FG, GG, HG, LG, MG, RG, SG, TG,
VG, ZG, AH, DH, FH, GH, HH, LH,
MH, RH, SH, TH, VH, ZH
MF, RF, SF, TF, VF, ZF, AG, DG,
FG, GG, HG, LG, MG, RG, SG, TG,
VG, ZG, AH, DH, FH, GH, HH, LH,
Inspect for a green dot above the model serial
tag. If a green dot is present, the TCO shield has
already been installed and no repair is required
Verify the dishwasher is operating correctly prior
to disassembly and installation of the TCO shield
kit.
Disconnect power using appropriate Lock Out –
Tag Out (LOTO) procedures.
Remove the Phillips screws on the inner door
panel securing the outer door. Do NOT remove
the two screws holding the outer door support at
the door interlock switch as shown in the
illustration.You will find the fuse there.

there are a few possibilities . You can leave the refrigerator door open for 3 minutes. Unit goes into liner protection mode. This opens the damper flap and runs the fan on high. The damper flap are notorious for breaking off. Some times stuck wide open – complaint fresh food freezing, or be stuck closed – warm in fresh food. Drop the fresh food damper and mullion assembly to inspect. Page 10 in manual.
Issues: Not cooling, cooling intermittently, melting/refreezing Ice in the freezer, Freezer cabinet Ice-cream/food
melting/re-freezing, Wide temperature variation in freezer (displays wide fluctuation)
Models: Plastic liner, Electronic control models only, Manufacturing dates between January 2005 – Sept 2007
Possible cause and Diagnosis:
A) Evaporator Fan: When inspecting the unit, if it appears that the Evaporator fan is the problem (I.e. running slow,
not running at all), Then:
1. Connect inspector and go to diagnostic mode. Run the Evap Fan in lo-med-hi speed using inspector and check
the RPM’s. Do this multiple times and note the value.
2. If the values for the same speed does not match or the hi-speed RPM is smaller than lo-speed rpm or the
inspector keeps displaying , then check the voltage to the Evap fan and also measure the
capacitance value between pin3 of J2 (GND) and Pin 4 . The meter should read >800 nF or 0.8 uF. If it reads below
0.5 uF or 500 nF, Then replace the main board. Note: this issue can also be caused by a bad Evap-fan motor so
you must diagnose for that too if the Evap fan is not running at all.
Pin3
Pin5
B) Condenser Fan: Connect inspector and go to diagnostic
mode. Run the Condenser Fan using inspector. If the fan does
not turn then check the voltage at the Fan and also put a meter
across across pin 3 of J2 (GND) and Pin 5 for C25 (should read

900 nF or 1 uF. If it reads below 0.5 uF or 500 nF, then replace
main-board). If all of these are ok, then diagnose the fan for
possible failure
Note:
AFTER REPLACING THE BOARDS, IT IS RECOMMENDED TO
FORCE A DEFROST TO ELIMINATE ANY FROST BUILDUP
(specially in the Evap fan cover/orifice) SO THAT ANY ICE
ACCUMULATION WONT DAMAGE THE EVAP FAN. ALSO, CHECK
RPM OF THE EVAP FAN AFTER REPLACEMENT TO ENSURE FAN
MOTOR HAS NOT BEEN DAMAGED or working properly after

First thing i would do is see if transmission spins freely. If transmission spins freely check to see if motor spins freely.if both spins freely. You may have bad motor or timer.