I would verify that you are getting proper power to the display board. Could be a wire harness issue or a defective part that was installed. Finding out if you have the correct power going to the display board is going to get you to the root of the problem.
- Brian, Ace Appliance answered 11 years ago
sounds like a venting issue. I would make sure you are getting proper air flow.
- Brian, Ace Appliance answered 11 years ago
Attached is a link to the tech sheet on your unit.
- Brian, Ace Appliance answered 11 years ago
I found the tech sheet for your oven.
- Brian, Ace Appliance answered 11 years ago
Hi, Matt! Thx for reply!
I think, I’ve described something not properly, sorry for my English 🙁
Actual problem is that after 2-3 cycles of normal work, compressor won’t start at all – it produces clicks for 8-10 seconds, then switches off, waits 2-3 minutes and tries to start again, but fails – freezer fan works, but compressor – not.
As a result after 7-8 hours there is an A1 or A2 error on display and refrigerator starts beeping. Temp. in freezer and cooling chamber may be at +10-+15 degrees. If left it in this state further, temp. will raise up to room’s temp. – +25.
I think, there should be some problem in its board or one of its temp. measuring components, but not sure witch one…
- Anton answered 11 years ago
if you already replaced relay and overload you more than likely have a bad compressor
- Jimmy, Ace Appliance answered 11 years ago
is it when the tub is going slow may be the counter weight ball bearings. but maybe start of bearing issues
- Jimmy, Ace Appliance answered 11 years ago
Ben, I’ve listed the part number for your model’s bake element below, it will fit your top oven and should be a pretty simple installation for you. Hope this gets you ready for the holidays!
- AV Repair Help answered 11 years ago
Liz, thankfully this is most likely due to the door being left ajar, or not closed completely. The warm air gets inside and causes the crystallization you see. But leave it closed up, monitor it, and all should be well. You can even use a thermometer in a glass of water if you want to keep a precise watch on it. If you keep noticing an issue, let us know!
- AV Repair Help answered 11 years ago
Alexandra, most likely it is your main heating element then. I’ll add a video below and some part information but your boyfriend may know right where this is if he already had that back panel off. Should be a pretty easy fix for you guys.
- AV Repair Help answered 11 years ago
Hugh, this is an electronic control (board) failure. I unfortunately do not have any videos on this repair but can link the part information below for you. You can also head over to savemoreonparts.com to get a schematic breakdown and closer look at the parts if you’d like to try this repair yourself.
- AV Repair Help answered 11 years ago
Jaxon, this is most likely just a stripped knob. Head over to savemoreonparts.com and use your model number to find it. They will ship right to your front door! An easy fix is always nice.
- AV Repair Help answered 11 years ago
Paul, from your symptoms you have a defective magnetron or main power board. I have linked three videos below that will help you diagnose the problem. Email us back with any questions after watching. If you need parts call our parts department 7-days a week until 11pm Eastern at 1-800-830-5465. Matt Ace technician
- AV Repair Help answered 11 years ago
Leah, If you remove the back cover you may have ice hitting the blade or a defective bearing in the motor. Normally an easy fix . See parts links below and repair video. Call our parts at 1-800-830-5465 for any parts needs. Matt Ace technician
- AV Repair Help answered 11 years ago
Leah, typically you can get in there and just adjust that fan blade, but I’d keep an eye on it and ensure the evaporator fan motor doesn’t need replaced as well. A lot of times we adjust them and they work fine indefinitely but there is the occasional one that fails. Hope this helps!
- AV Repair Help answered 11 years ago
Anton, it sounds like the unit is operating normal. It will go into deep freeze mode to -20 degrees before it goes into the defrost mode. after defrost you will be at +5 degrees or as high as +10 degrees. Normal temperatures should be -5 degrees to 0 degrees in freezer and +35 to +44 degrees in refrigerator. Do not look at compressor run time its all based on computer board analysis with thermistors monitoring indoor and outdoor temperatures and many other conditions. Matt Ace technician
- AV Repair Help answered 11 years ago
My first thoughts would be to check the belt and idler assembly. Sometimes the belt comes off or breaks and needs replaced. I’ll attach a couple videos to help get you started. From there, if you need parts, I’ll link them below. If you get in there and find something else you have a question about, let us know.
- AV Repair Help answered 11 years ago
Eduardo, you may have a high temperature alarm going off or the unit may be in the defrost cycle. Let it run for 12 hours and email us back if its not down to proper temperatures. Matt Ace technician
- AV Repair Help answered 11 years ago
Terri, if there was an error code it is stored in the control board. You will need the Technician sheet to retrieve it. If there is a issue with your unit it will come back. Most likely just an error from low voltage on the power outage and nothing to worry about. You reset the board when unplugging the unit.
- AV Repair Help answered 11 years ago
Dellon, click on the link below. It looks like you either have a bad main control board or you need the current diagnostic sheet. See part list below in the like for part numbers that you can order them. Matt Ace technician
- AV Repair Help answered 11 years ago
