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Sally, that bridge element is separate, but I hate to tell you that it’s quite pricey. Most customers opt not to have us do the repair. As for doing it yourself, I could try and find a repair video on it if you want to give it a go? I know the part retails for upwards of $400 unless you can find it cheaper. Let me know your thoughts and I’ll do some digging for you.

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Christina, take a look at the part link below, does it look similar to that? Am thinking maybe your drum glide came off. There is a set on the front and back of the unit, so you may not need to replace both but worth checking them. Your unit can get very noisy because of these missing. I’ll also add a video if you’d like to try and get these replaced.

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Lorraine, it may just be a matter of a clogged drain, or debris blocking/backing it up near the chopper and sump assembly. If you remove the lower cover and can get a shop vac down there to get any particles out, as well as disconnecting the drain hose and clearing it, hopefully that would solve the problem. If it doesn’t let us know and we’ll help you diagnose further.

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Jason, my first guess is the door lock. I’ve attached a video for you to see whether this is what’s happening. If so, it also shows how to do the repair yourself. I listed the part information below should you need it. Good luck on this!

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In reply to: getting an f21 error

Nathaniel, you can definitely do this repair yourself I think. That error code refers to your drain pump and it will need to be replaced. Part information is below along with an installation video. Good luck!

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Rob, unfortunately if it is your rear bearing, on this model we would say it exceeds the cost of the unit and suggest buying new. This is a very time intensive and a bit more difficult of a job. We do them occasionally but not very often. If you really want to replace it and keep the unit we can get you some part information and a repair video. Let us know!

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Kerry, I’d start with the thermal fuse and thermostat, they will be right next to each to each other. You can also check the door latch. timer, and start button as well. If these are all good, then I’d check power and voltage to the unit as well. If you need assistance with any of these items let us know and we’ll find you a few videos. Good luck!

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Daniel, on these models of icemakers we typically end up replacing the entire unit. Sometimes a frozen water line does cause problems, but unfortunately the other parts and pieces are not sold separately. I’ll add the information below if you want to tackle this repair yourself. You can also take a look through our videos for some more specific how-to instructions if needed.

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In reply to: leaking out the front.

Matthew, the most common leak fix on these is replacing the door seal/gasket. I’ll add the link below but you can inspect yours to see if it’s worn through, cracked, come off, or has any tears in it. Hope this helps you and let us know if there’s anything else we can do!

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Sandra, this sounds like your main wash motor failing. Unfortunately, many do not opt to have this repair done, the part itself retails for $150+ if you want to try it yourself. To have a company come out there would also be a trip charge and labor involved. Many opt to buy new, but it can be personal preference. If you want to try this repair yourself I’ll find a video to help. Let us know!

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Barton, this could definitely cause some problems, we normally recommend them only being inserted down that stand pipe by about 4 to 5 inches, they don’t need much. Too far inside and it could potentially create a siphon and cause errors. Fix that and see if you can clear the errors to monitor it after. Should be good from there.

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Esther, this may be a fairly simple fix of replacing the door springs. They may have broken, come off, or be stretched out/loose. I’ll attach the part link below to purchase two. Hopefully this fixes the problem for you!

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In reply to: not heating up

Lisa, I would bet it’s either your cycling thermostat or thermal fuse. Maybe both. Start there and let us know if it’s not. Also, check the venting both behind the dryer and to where it exits outside, it’s a common problem for heat!

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Mary, that error code is for an electronic control failure, it’s the control board directly behind the buttons that has the clock display built into it. I’ll add the part information below for you. Hope this helps and good luck!

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Brad, this sounds like a spark ignitor assembly, it would apply to the orifices and fix your problem I think. Part information is below. We don’t have a video on this specific repair yet but I’ll see if I can hunt one down, unless you feel comfortable tackling it yourself from here. Let us know.

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Refrigerator and freezer won’t cool properly

  • Richard Bolyard answered 11 years ago
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Depservice, the schematic part number is # 31-51734 its $3.50 at any local parts distributor. The owners guide with schematic is #49-60530-1 . We do not have access to either one at this time. Matt Ace technician

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Vicki, you could definitely tackle this repair yourself. It may just need re-positioned. If you end up needing a new piece of glass, the part number is W10535776. But for now, I’ll add a video below showing how to get inside the door. Also, I noticed this model was manufactured in 2013-2014. Is it under a year since you purchased it? If so, it’d fall under the manufacturer’s warranty and you can call Whirlpool directly to handle it. 1-800-253-1301. Good luck!

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John, a lot of times when machines are off balance, it can cause a lot of problems inside. On heavy loads and fast final spins they tend to lean to one side or even wear down parts on certain areas taking the brunt of the weight. I’d suggest leveling as close to perfect as possible and even tightening down with nuts to ensure it doesn’t move again. From there, it also sounds like you’ll need a new shock absorber assembly. I’ll add the part information below for purchasing since you’ve got it mostly apart already. Let us know if there’s more we can do from here for you.

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Justin, we normally replace both, and that gets expensive, both of these parts retail for close to $250+/each. If you can get into the top to test them, that would be best case, but I’d recommend getting a company out so that you don’t buy both out of pocket and find you only needed one. They can diagnose properly for you. Most parts can’t be returned after installing. I didn’t find a video in our possession for this specific repair but will see what I can find and post it here for you.

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