All Answers

Hello, see below the parts breakdown of the dispenser assembly. If you are trying to get the Collar Kit cover off #101 use a putty knife it has pins that will unlock. There are screws behind the cover collar plate to remove the assembly from there. I did have one issue years ago when a customer glued on the collar cover. I had to make the customer sign a disclaimer waiver to eliminate liability to our company for damage when prying off, I ended up breaking it and billing the customer. Good luck hope this helps. Matt Ace technician

Patrick, call our parts department at 1-800-830-5465 have you model number ready, they will look it up and ship it today. Thanks Matt Ace technician

Richard, It sounds like you have low water pressure into the ice maker and the inlet tube is freezing up due to low water pressure. I have provided video links below to solve your issue and show you how to get the ice out of the inlet tube. Please support our parts department at 1-800-830-5465 for any parts needs. Thanks Matt Ace technician

Did your clock come with a latch mechanism? Had one while back that instructions were not clear. Found the attachment helped me with what I was missing even though it’s for another brand. Maybe this will help.

Retrofit of Sanyo / Torisan ERC3H or ERC3DD range control in place
of Invensys or Siebe or Robertshaw.
Kit contains: 1 control
1 lock motor assembly (30” wall ovens, only)
Suggested tools: 1/8” flat screwdriver
Short or 90° ¼” nutdriver
Medium Phillips screwdriver
1. Kill power. Access rear of control by dropping the control panel (3 screws underneath control panel
on wall ovens) ( 4 screws on rear wire cover on freestanding range). Protect the panel from scratching.
2. Preparation of harness for Torisan ERC. The yellow (bake), violet (broil) and/or yellow (convect)
lead terminals for the elements may have a keyed housing. (Fig A). This has to be removed. Insert a
small screwdriver or awl into the front (opposite side from lead) and pry the internal retainer away
from the brass colored terminal. Slide housing off terminal.
Fig A
3. General controller changeout. Transfer the leads from old control to the new control. The terminals
are in the same approximate positions and are named the same. The VIOLET, YELLOW and
YELLOW for CONVect insert onto terminals located ON TOP of the relays on the Torisan control.
Connectors with plastic housings insert with flat side toward small gap between terminal and wall
(Figs B).
Fig B.1 WB00X7033-1 Pg 1 of 4
Flat side toward small gap
between terminal and wall.
Fig B.2
THE BROIL RELAY HAS TWO CONNECTIONS (Fig D): VIOLET goes to NO and BLACK (L1A)
goes to COM. The BAKE has only the YELLOW to NO and CONV has only the YELLOW for
CONVect to NO. The letters NO and COM are small and are molded into the relay covers adjacent to
the terminals. There are color dots corresponding to the lead colors on the relays. (Fig D)
The new control may not have a GND terminal for the green wire. On models with steel control panels,
the ground wire must remain connected to the Clock Bracket. The terminal for the control must be
taped or tucked under the clock bracket before re-assembly. On models with plastic control panels, the
green wire should be removed.
Fig C
Fig D
WB00X7033-1 Pg 2 of 4
Black L1
Small gap between
terminal and wall.
Fig E
Fig F
4. Special consideration for Double Oven controls. ( Control has Relays for Both Upper and Lower Ovens)
Beware the GREY for MDL1 and BLACK/WHITE for MDL2 have their position reversed
on the new control. (See Fig F) Be sure to test Clean door latching operation before leaving.
Pg 3 of 4
WB00X7033-1
MDL1
MDL2
REVERSED
Black L1
5. LATCH MOTOR CHANGE OUT. On 30” Single and Double Wall ovens it is necessary to change
the lock motor assembly from the original Kingston (Fig G) to a lower profile type (Fig H) to provide
clearance for the terminals on top of the power relays. This should be done while control is out.
Remove two screws that are facing up on the latch assembly base plate just behind the vent trim and to
the right of the hook. Disconnect the 3-lead switch harness by squeezing the locks on the connector
side. Disconnect two individual in line black power leads to the motor.
The new latch assembly (Fig H) fits into same mounting holes and harness connections. The black
motor leads can be swapped.
6. The membrane keypad connector may have a vertical lock bar instead of horizontal. When
reassembling the control panel, check that no leads interfere with latch moving parts. Check all bake,
broil, clean, convect, oven light operations after assembly.
Fig G – Kingston Latch Assembly
Fig H – Neo Latch Motor
Pg 4 of 4
WB00X7033-1
Disconnect
here
Mounting
screws
Mounting screws
Polarity not
important

The only thing left would be the Tempurature sensor. This is what reads the oven temp. and sends the information back to the board. It should be aprox. 1100 ohms at room temp. Attached is a link to the part and a repair video.

Sounds like the unit is short cycling the heat. This would be from restricted air flow from clogged venting or a bad bower wheel. Check these first. The heat should come on and stay on for about 60 seconds and turn off. Then a few minutes later do the same thing. With bad gas coils they will work initially then when they fail the igniter will glow and then shut off or stop glowing and there will be no flame.

Monica, with your symptoms you could have a few possibilities of failed components. Please review the video links below we have provided. Email us back with any questions you may have to rectify your issue. Matt Ace technician

To calibrate your machine enter diagnostic mode. Follow the video I attached to enter diagnostic mode. Then Turn the selector knob until just the rinse light is lit up. Press start and it will run through diagnostic mode. It will take about 5 mins. Lid has to be closed with no clothes in the washer.

Sounds like you have a bad thermocouple . This is usual sold as an assembly with the gas valve. The model number you provided is not valid. Call 1-800-816-0715 for parts.

Our parts department can look this up by your model number and get the part number you need. Call 1-800-830-5465 they can ship it same day and are open 7-days a week.

Dave the 9E error code is a plugged fill reservoir. It gets filled with food particles , grease and other items causing the water shut off switch not to sense water flow and give the 9E error code. You can try to remove and clean it and that will work sometimes. If that does not work replace it. Our parts department sells the complete assembly at 1-800-830-5465 they can ship same day and are open 7-days a week until 11pm eastern time. Thanks Matt Ace technician

Look at the video link below on how to remove ice from drain. Matt Ace technician

Skoorb, review the two videos I have linked below. It could be one of these two issues. If not I would ask the technician to look for a sealed system issue. Sealed system is on of three things. 1) low refrigerant charge 2) Weak suction or discharge vale in compressor. 3) A restriction in the system. All three of these issues would require a technician to put on refrigerant gauges. Matt Ace technician

you get rid of the duck bill and just use whats in the kit you put the sleeve on and slide new drain trapp over it

Arthur, we’ve only come across a couple of these, but there is a replacement harness that is about 50mm longer than the original and should be exactly what you need. The replacement part # is DA39-00154B. Be sure it doesn’t revert you back to the DA39-00154J because that is the original that you’re having an issue with being too short. Good luck!

(This also effects models: RS25H5111 & RS25H5000 in all colors)

Jim, this does come as a kit, and Repair Clinic does a video that we have, I’ll list it below for you. We do a lot of fuse kits on dishwashers and it sounds like this should get you running. If you need help diagnosing further, let us know and we can do that.