0 votes
In reply to: Washer will not start

Hi. I do believe on this washer the lid has to be closed for everything to work including fill, agitate, and spin. The first thing I would suspect and check is the lid lock. I have attached a video that shows how to get to the lid lock. This video does not show your exact model but is very similar. Also, attached is a link to purchase the lid lock.

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Hi. That model number not complete. Please provide a complete model number so I can better assist you. Sounds like you have a faulty lid switch. I have attached a video that should help.

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Hi. I have seen this issue before. Sounds like your washer is in a factory test mode called endless cycle. To exit this cycle you need to put the washer in to diagnostic mode. I will attach a video that shows how to do this. Once in diagnostic mode all the console lights will light up. Turn the selector knob until you have just the wash, rinse, and done lights lit up. Now press start. Then unplug the washer, wait a few minutes and plug back in. It should be out of the endless cycle now. IF it is still in the endless cycle the washer will start running when you plug it back in. If not you should be good to go. If you need any help just let me know. Good luck!

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Tim, you will need to get the service tech. sheet and put it in the diagnostic mode so the reversing valve solenoid will go into the home position. In the home position you will have 100% access to both evaporators for evacuating the system and recharging. The technician sheet is normally under the refrigerator hing cover. I have done one evaporator already but am not sure if all LG models are the same . Matt Ace technician

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The new kit just has one drain tube that fits both size refrigerators. I have attached a link to the part if you need to purchase it. It will work for your unit.

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They have had a lot of issue with the ice maker. If your water pressure checks out good, I would replace the ice maker. I have replace a lot of them and carry it on my truck. Link to ice maker is attached if you need to purchase it. I have attached repair videos for you as well.

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Damian, Since these core charges are passed down to the parts distributor from the manufacturers, it is unlikely that you will find a parts distributor that does not pass along these core charges. The biggest problem is not the failed resistors, relays, diodes etc. on the boards, but the micro-processor which can be difficult to obtain, especially since that major micro-processor factory in Japan was wiped out by the tsunami a couple of years ago.

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Which board did you replace? The one in the console or the one down at the bottom right side of the machine?
If you replaced the lower right side one than I would try to run diagnostic cycle, its called a customer service test program in the manual.

1 vote

Bob, I have provided a link below to show you how the ice maker breakdown comes out of the unit. I hope this helps. Matt Ace technician

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Hal, I have added two video links below on the Whirlpool brands that have your symptoms of stopping mid cycle. Kenmore is manufactured by Whirlpool along with Maytag and other brands. Matt Ace technician

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Diego, I have provided two repair videos that may help you. I also provided a link to your parts breakdown for your model. Call 1-800-830-5465 for any parts you need. Click on the links below. Matt Ace technician

0 votes
In reply to: Pump Sound

Chad, this may be coming from the ice maker. You may have an air leak in one of the inlet lines causing the noise. We have found air leaks under the cap of the refrigerator hinge assembly. I have provided a Samsung ice maker video below . Matt Ace technician

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How long are the cycles ? What cycle are you using ? The new units take much longer to complete cycles and this unit is under one year old by the model number. This sounds like its a customer education issue. I suggest to have them read their manual on cycle times. I am sure that is all this is.

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Do you have a part number for this relay by chance?

  • Brittney answered 11 years ago
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Scott, get the model and serial number off your refrigerator and call our parts department at 1-800-830-5465 . They will look it up and determine the correct kit. Matt Ace technician

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Check every inch of the spark wire from module to ignitor to see if there is any
problem with the insulation anywherel. This can be a dead short path to ground that
happens intermittently and drives you nuts. Also make sure there are no
tall items in the drawer below that come close to the ignitor wire when the
drawer is closed..

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Brittney, if your element is testing good, and you hear a clicking noise. I believe that could be a bad relay on your control board causing low or no voltage to your element. If you need prices on parts call 1-800-830-5465 Thanks Matt Ace technician

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AJ, this sounds like a low water pressure issue. I believe you have a plugged inlet or saddle valve. I would start with the saddle valve its less expensive. Call 1-800-830-5465 for any parts needed.

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This is a door boot issue. In the clean cycle washer fills to a higher point and/or spins with water in it to clean the outer tub, this is the reason it would only leak in the clean cycle and not the others. A small hole or rip in door boot can be missed until taken apart.Call 1-800-830-5465 for parts if needed

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We ran into these problems a few years ago, the end solution was to replace both the pc board and gas valve. It seemed that whenever we would replace one or the other we would be back out in a few weeks, we started replacing both and did not have recalls. LG had some problems with their gas valves a few years ago, we actually used to carry 2 of them on our trucks, not as big of an issue anymore.

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