All Answers

See the error code chart below and email us back the code you are getting. We can then determine a solution. Matt Ace technician

http://www.samsung.com/us/support/faq/FAQ00031869/81589/WF393BTPARA/A2

Looks like these two companies have 1….

http://www.foxatlanta.com/

http://www.midsouthparts.com/

Blake, I would be sure they’re not on a GFCI circuit, and that your voltage check at the wall proved there is a valid ground. The area around the spark electrode can become diffuse with residue and might cause a ground problem for the spark, so look there as well. A couple of clicks to ignite isn’t all that significant of failure.

I replace the lower cam/splutch when that happens. I has a new drive pulley in the kit. Always replace the belt too. Be sure the bolt in the center is tight when re-installing.

Ron, try replacing the secondary valve. We found out it powers the primary valve. When the coil gets weak it cannot power the primary board.

A turbidity sensor is designed to determine the cleanliness of the water being drained. If the water is too dirty it will drain. If the sensor determines the water as being somewhat or slightly dirty, it will be reused in the next wash step. It is supposed to save water consumption. Normally you will get a Fault Code during diagnostics if the incorrect signal is picked up from the sensor.

Sounds like the double line break relay or thermal limit open.

The clean light blinking 7 times means there is a problem in the heating circuit. I can’t help you with a schematic but you can check the heater circuit at the control board. If no wire diagram is available I look at the wires on the heater and trace them back to the board. I suspect they will be white violet and white red at the board. I did one of these today and the ohms were supposed to be between 10 to 30 ohms. I hope this helps.

First you need to verify that the tub seal is not leaking and then how does it sound in spin. If the
machine needs the tub bearing and seal it’s probably not practical to repair. (hard to get apart and parts are expensive now) But if it’s only the off balance issue it can be repaired. You will need 2 parts 203956 damper pad kit and Y055978 cement.
Directions are in the damper pad kit. Take note this is a dirty job due to metal on metal filings. I’m still doing
this job about every 2 months on machines that are in good shape otherwise.

YOU WILL NEED THE CORRECT MODEL NUMBER The “T” in the model# needs to be and “F” or a “P”, Leave out the “x” and change the “o” to a zero and you’ll have a valid model #.
The Error Codes range from E01 to E32.

There is a new updated drain tube kit to fix this issue. The first video shows you how to install the new drain tube kit. The second video shows you how to gain access to the drain inside the freezer to thaw it out. Or you can just unplug the unit for 24 hrs. with the doors open to thaw the drain out as well. I have attached a link to the drain tube kit.

Hi Bill, You will need to check the 2 bi-metal fuses on top of the cavity to make sure they have continuity. If they check out ok, Elements also have continuity, You most likely cause of the problem will be the Main control.
Attached is the parts you may have to order. Any other questions feel free to ask.

Peter, Click on links below to see how dryer top is removed. Matt Ace technician

Julianne, in this video our technician used : 1) A battery operated drill with 5/16 inch bit. 2) A pair of vice grips 3) A 3/8 inch nut driver 4) A 3/8 inch Craftsman socket wrench.

AJ, I have not seen any warped doors in my years of experience with the way they are constructed. Its most likely the hinge or the way the door sits in the hing assembly. Was this the original problem ? Matt Ace technician

Dano960, I just replaced an evaporator on a GE refrigerator last Friday. I scaled in 5.5 ounces of 134A and my suction pressure was +1 and my head pressure was 110 lbs. My indoor ambient temperature was +72 degrees. If you have a refrigerant scale its best to evacuate and scale it in for the exact charge. This unit was running for about one hour at these pressures. Matt Ace technician

Victoria, there are answers for this and ways to improve it. This is, unfortunately, a common question we get a lot, and I’ll provide some industry-wide explanations on some of the new dishwashers and why they seem different.

With the new government energy standards, you save electrical consumption, but tend to sacrifice in other areas. Manufacturer’s are using the same heating elements but in older units they stayed on longer. Dishwashers used to have a final rinse cycle with temps between 145-165 degrees. With the water at this temperature, dishes dried a lot faster, but used more electricity. The newer dishwashers final rinse cycle temps are between 120-140.

But there are a few ways to help improve it:

Use a rinse aid when possible and if you have an adjustment, you can place it at a higher setting than usual. Also use a high temperature wash if you can. Try not to overload the dishwasher when possible for better air flow and unload the bottom rack first to avoid getting water/condensation on other dishes. Some newer units have a sensor dry setting and it can be a great option for better results. We hope this helps!

Sheryl, that is called an air vent cap, and that part has actually been replaced by a new improved part to prevent the small leak. Part number was previously DC67-00605A and has since changed to DC97-18301A. It should be a relatively easy swap and you can call Whirlpool directly to have one sent to you: 1-800-253-1301. We do not currently have the ability to give you a part link for ordering unfortunately.

As some additional help for anyone else looking into this, it also applies to Models beginning with WF405, WF393,WF395, WF397, & WF398 that were produced after January 10, 2014:

WF405ATPASU/AA
WF405ATPAWR/A2
WF393BTPARA/A2
WF393BTPAWR/A2
WF395BTPARA/A2
WF395BTPASU/A2
WF395BTPAWR/A2
WF397UTPAGR/A2
WF398ATPAWR/A2

Hello, please see the links below on the Samsung refrigerator codes. Let me know if the helps .Matt Ace technician

Hi. You can rule out the door switch. A faulty door switch would not cause the unit to have no lights on the control panel. It seems like you have also ruled out any loose connections. You had power at the terminal block and still no lights on panel. Just make sure your connections at the control board are good. You have already replaced the maid board so it sounds like you have a bad user interface. I have attached a link to the part.