All Answers

Mark, we clear and replace a lot of washer pumps. I wouldn’t jump to the conclusion that you need a new pump yet, but I’l attach a video below showing how you can clear it of any obstructions and hopefully solve your problem. If it doesn’t fix it, I’d move on to a possible pump replacement from there. I’ll attach the part number below for you just in case. Good luck!

Kenneth, I’m going to suggest checking the igniter first. It is such a common problem that we see , and most likely yours as well. Sometimes they can heat up intermittently even when failing so it may seem to temperature even when it’s not sustaining it for the entire cook time. I’ll attach a link for the part and a video if you want to tackle this yourself. Good luck!

depservice, I have provided a parts breakdown of your appliance below. See video below on LED control board issue. Matt Ace technician

La shae, I have provided you with a parts breakdown and video to help solve your issue. Click links below . Matt Ace technician

Jeff, see links below. Normally what causes the unit to short cycle is defective coils on your gas valve. See parts link below. They are 13-14 on the schematic. I have also added a link for a repair video to watch. See below. Call our parts department at 1-800-830-5465 or order on line with us. Matt Ace technician.

Farnaz, please check everything in the video link below. If you tried all of these solutions to correct your problem its time to replace or rebuild the disposer. Call our parts department at 1-800-830-5465 for parts questions. 7-days a week until 11pm eastern. Thanks Matt Ace technician

The ice build up is a sign of a defrost issue. The fan could be hitting again this frost that has built up causing the loud noise you are hearing. The frost can cause the fan to stop running and therefore stop cooling properly. I have attached some videos on this issue with your refrigerator.

Javier, normally if the freezer is cooling and the refrigerator is not you have a possible defrost issue or a evaporator fan motor problem. Do you have frost on the back wall of the freezer section ? If so you could have a defective defrost timer, defrost heater or defrost thermostat. Click on the two video links below to help you with your problem. Matt Ace technician

There is no easy way to test the board. You test everything else out and if everything else is good then you replace the board. Process of elimination to diagnose the board. If you have replaced the board, heater, and defrost thermostat the only thing that is left in the defrost cycle is the evaporator thermistor. This senses and tells the board when the unit needs to go into a defrost cycle. I would replace this part. I have attached a link to the part. P# WR55X10025. Its located on the top of the evaporator. I have also attached a video showing this repair. Just let us know if you need any further help. Good luck!

Karl, this model number does not come up in our system. What is the manufacturer?

Hi Matt, Attached is a link to purchase the starting device shown in the video. If it does not fix the problem, feel free to come back and ask!
Thanks, Tony-AceTech52

Hi Ed, Try swapping the motor controllers (computers) over between the two drawers to see if the fault carries over. Also, make sure to give the buttons a good cleaning to make sure they are not stuck in any fashion. Hope this gets you started on your repair.
Thanks, Tony-AceTech52

Hi Paul. It looks like this particular unit is equipped with a feature called express thaw. You will see this option in the fresh food side at the top panel. In my experience, I have noticed the light will be on, usually on 3.0, illuminated orange. If you hit the express thaw button, it should turn the express thaw off. Then shut the door. Open door back up and see if the light has come back on. If it does, Your problem lies in the mother board on the back of the unit. In fact, I have never seen the board you replaced go bad before. If I was you, I would reinstall the old one, especially if it is giving you problems since installing the new one. Please let me know if this solves your problem. Attached is a link to the part and a 2 separate instructional repair videos.
Thanks! Tony-AceTech52

Hi Joe, First I have a couple questions for you. Does all the buttons on the panel work? normal, heavy duty, etc. Is the water turned on going to the unit? Also your model number is incomplete. There should be a tag on the inside of the door on the frame. Please provide full model for better advice. To rule out the door latch, you can jump it out or bypassing it by taking a wire and connecting the harness’s, white to white and black to black and pressing start. If you still get nothing, make sure there is nothing blocking the float switch in the bottom front right of the tub. This is a overfill protection device. If this is stuck in the up position, it will not put anymore water into the unit, and therefore not start. In my experience, I have seen the touch pad go out on these more times than the door latch. But in order to provide you with repair videos and proper parts you may need, you will need to provide us with a complete model number please!
Looking forward to your response.
Thanks, Tony-AceTech52