0 votes
In reply to: Defost issues

Hi David, In most cases what you find is that the back panel of the freezer gets completely frosted over and iced up. In order to jump the heater out, you will need to follow these steps. UNPLUG THE UNIT. Access the back panel where the mother board is located, usually held on by (3) 1/4 screws. Remove the blue harness towards the bottom of the board. Put a jumper wire between the “Line” and “Defrost” (sometimes abbreviated with DEFR)… Plug the unit back in, If the heater is good, it should turn right on. (You may have to remove the back panel of the freezer on the inside to see this)… BUT before even going through all this, you best bet is to remove the board completely and take a look at the back of the board. ALOT of the times you will see a very noticeable “burnspot” right behind the large black box relay on the board. If you see this, the board will need to be replaced… Attached is a link to the part and 2 separate videos to assist you with you repair. If this solves your problem, please let me know! Any other questions, feel free to ask!
Thanks, Tony-AceTech52

0 votes

Hi Tom. If you feel comfortable taking the dryer apart, this will be necessary to complete the repair. In most cases there is a thermostat that sometimes blows. The fuse will blow if there is not proper airflow. It is very important to clean out any lint build up that may of built up over the years in the blower housing. UNPLUG UNIT FROM WALL BEFORE SERVICING. First you will need to pop the top of the dryer up by using a putty knife on the very left and right side of the door to prop the top of the dryer up on the hinges. Next there is 2 screws holding on the front of the unit on the left and right side of the front panel. After removing the front panel you will need to remove the drum by reaching back under the drum and releasing the tension on idler pulley and removing the belt. Remove the drum. Next you will need to inspect the thermostat and check it for continuity. There may be a few different fuses to checks. If thermostat is OK, Check the heating element. Using a multimeter set to ohms, check element for continuity.
Attached is links to both the element and thermostat. If you have any other questions, feel free to ask.
Thanks! Tony-AceTech52

0 votes

Stu, your model number is not a complete model. In most cases the plastic cover has clips and the clips depress releasing the cover. If you cannot find any screws try depressing the cover and releasing it. Matt Ace technician

0 votes

Hi Matt – Thank you for the prompt response! After 24 of hrs of operation, the temperatures are 2 & 35 degrees. I believe the compressor on this unit is a single speed GE PSS26SGRBSS, and was manufactured in 2004 (no inverter and no 3 way valve). From my observations and comparing this unit’s operation to my basement GE Arctica one, I still think there is something wrong with this unit. When reaching this temperature, the evaporator fan stays at its highest speed measuring 12.6V at J2 3-4, and it does not stop when reaching the temp set point. One would think the lower the temp in Fzr the lower the speed on the evap motor. Could the motor be damaged, due to prior bad motherboard that was sending fluctuating voltage at sometimes? I read in another post that fan motor can be “down Amping the board”, and therefore it is a bad motor. Or, could it be the thermistor in Fzr is bad even though it is within the Ohms range? I would hate replacing parts for the sake of replacement, and would greatly appreciate your/readers help in narrowing down this problem. Thanks again – Mike

  • Mike answered 11 years ago
0 votes

Scott, See video links below. Matt Ace Technician

0 votes

Brunobb, in most cases on an overheating problem can be caused by
1) A plugged dryer vent
2) A cycling thermostat
3) A shorted electric heater to ground

0 votes

Shawn, see attached parts link below along with two video’s related to your model on a no heat microwave. Matt Ace technician

0 votes

Lauren, I think you are talking about the auger dispenser motor. You can check it by a volt meter you should have 115 volts, or watch the videos I have linked below. Matt Ace technician

0 votes

Fred, our technicians only answer questions by email in Repair Help. If you are looking for parts you can call our parts department at 1-800-830-5465 Thanks

0 votes

Idan, you need a new door cam kit. Call the parts department 1-800-830-5465 and they can ship you one.Matt Ace technician

0 votes

Jim, the F34 code means the fan is running at an incorrect high or low speed. This error code indicates a motor issue. If you replaced both exhaust fans you may have a voltage issues coming from the board. So you either have a bad exhaust motor or board issue. The next step is to check power to each exhaust motor if incorrect voltage from nameplate voltage on motor replace the power board. Matt Ace technician

0 votes

Dan, see video links below to correct this issue. Matt Ace technician

0 votes

Mike, I have evaluated the information above you have provided. It all seems to be normal. My next question is leaking the unit run 24 hours without opening it what are your fresh food and freezer temperatures ? You should have a freezer temperature of -5 to +8 degrees on the middle control setting. The fresh food should be at +37 to +45 degrees . If you are getting these temperatures the unit is running normal and functioning properly. Remember on the new energency efficient refrigerators the run on low voltage DC for evaporator and condenser motors and use little to no electricity. The compressor has an inverter board that runs a variable speed compressor. This compressor runs longer but uses much less electricity that its older counterpart. It is engineered to run almost 90% of the time at a very low amprege. Compressors in the old days used to start and stop every 10-15 minutes and the starting amprege was 12-15 amps, and then run at 4-6 amps. The new variable speed compressor starts at less than 3-amps and runs at .08 amps. So if you are not freezing food in the refrigerator section and the freezer is keeping good temperatures you have a functioning unit with no issues. Matt Ace technician

0 votes

UPDATE:

The dryer is fixed. Here’s how I got there:

  • I did that test as specified on the TechSheet – resistance between P1-3 and P1-4 – readout was 1.7 ohms which was between 1-6 ohms suggesting (according to the TechSheet) a bad board.
  • All the other tests on the board passed
  • Because it didn’t say what that readout should be, I was not feeling totally confident
  • I got the new control board ($$$) anyway and installed it then did the same test again – readout was again 1.7 ohms!!! Thought for sure I was sunk.
  • buttoned things up and I wouldn’t have guessed it would, but it started fine. Got to good to be lucky I’ve always said.
  • I will never know what that readout between P1-3 and P1-4 should be and what was wrong with the old board.
  • full install and 6 loads later, all is good.

Moral of the story… Owing to the exact same readings on the dead and new boards, I was not able to properly diagnose the issue. The TechSheet didn’t do it either. I just got lucky that the new board worked. Frustrating experience but at least it worked out.

Many thanks Tony, for your guidance and assistance – I really appreciated the sounding board even if it didn’t zero-in on the root cause.

Bret

  • Bret Smth answered 11 years ago
0 votes

Hi. I have attached a video that will show you how to enter diagnostic mode and see what error codes the unit has stored. Once we find out what the error codes are we can go from there. The tech sheet should be located on the left side of the front panel after you lift up the top panel.

0 votes

I would check for a shorted wire at the baked element. You can removed the back panel and inspect your wires for bake and broil. You also could have a weak breaker. Does it trip right away or when you turn something on the unit on?

0 votes

Hello. When I have came across a tripped thermal fuse on this type of dryer I have found a grounded heat element causing the fuse to trip. Clogged venting can also cause this to happen as well as a faulty blower motor. I would have the element checked. I have attached a link to the element.

0 votes
In reply to: Door will not open

Hi. It does sound like your door latch is the problem. You will have to use some force to open the door. Try pushing the door to one side while pulling. I have attached a repair video and a link to purchase the door latch. Let me know if you need any further assistance.

0 votes
In reply to: Dryer not making heat

HI. Your themistor reading you got is with in range. It is testing good. I would check that you have 240v at your terminal block at the back of the unit. Make sure your wiring is not damaged. Then unplug the unit again and make sure you have plugged back in everything you have tested. I have attached the next step in that is listed in the tech sheet below.

  1. remove the P14
    (P4 on Amana models) connector, then measure
    the resistance between P14-3 (P4-3 on Amana
    models) (red wire) and P14-6 (P4-6 on Amana
    models) (red wire) at the connector. See figure 16,
    page 22, for connector location; and Accessing &
    Removing the Electronic Assemblies, page 21.
    If 5–15 kΩ are measured,replace the
    machine control electronics.
    If the resistance is less than 1 kΩ,replace
    the outlet thermistor.

Another test you can perform is checking the heat relay at the board. The heat relay will be a black box with 2 wires going to it. A red wire and a black wire. Put your meter terminals on each terminal of the relay (with wires attached). You should read 120 or 240 volts with the dryer off. Select a heat cycle on the dryer on turn it on. If the relay is working and closes you should read 0 volts on your meter as long as there is continuity through the heat circuit. IF so your relay is working. Attached is a link for your control board if you need it.

0 votes
In reply to: Heating element

Hello. Yes we do! Please visit http://www.savemoreonparts.com/ or call us at (800) 830-5465.

Showing 9261 - 9280 of 10k results