All Answers

Jessica, we always check the water line coming in to the refrigerator to ensure you have proper supply to the unit. If you have an inadequate amount then you may need to talk to a plumber about water pressure or maybe changing which line you pull from. You could still be getting ice, but just not a lot, or sometimes the cubes will be smaller than usual. You can unhook the line at the back of the fridge to check the flow, but be sure to have someone help to disconnect and reconnect at the supply line so you don’t get caught with water everywhere. Let us know if this isn’t the issue and we’ll diagnose some more with you!

Harold, my first thought would be the thermostat tripping it. If you still have it apart check that and see if you’ve found the problem. I’ll add the part link for it below if it is the culprit and you can let me know if its not, we’ll help you diagnose further. You were on the right track!

Jorge, these can be tricky to replace if it is that seal or bellow that’s the problem. They can get small tears and rips which worsen over time. The part number for your model is 8182119 and I’ll add the parts link and a video on the repair if you’d like to try and replace it yourself. We do a lot of these and it may just be time for a new one! Let us know if there’s anything more we can do for you.

Laura, I’ll add a video below for you to take a listen to. My first guess is your rear bearing, but drum glides can also be a simple culprit if they’ve come off or worn through. Let me know if this helps, and if it’s a different noise we can help narrow down from there some other possibilities.

Damon, my first thought would be to check the main control board behind that touch panel. Can you get to it? I couldn’t find a video specific to your model but will do a little more digging to help you get inside if necessary. The part # is WH12X10468, and it sounds like it may be your culprit. They do go bad and sometimes tend to wear out or don’t make a good connection anymore. If you can get in there to check it we can help from there.

Cathleen, I’m assuming it will mirror the below dishwasher from the video link almost exactly, but double check. If so, it is in fact your motor/sump assembly and I’ll add the part link if you’d like to try and fix this yourself. If you’d rather call someone in your local area to come and replace it, that is always an option as well. Hope this helps!

Michael, it is possible that your thermostat or fuse (or maybe both) need to be replaced. It’s also very likely that there’s a blockage of lint from the unit to where it vents outside. Especially in a second story, if the venting runs longer than the standard length, or there are multiple elbows, lint can build up and then get backed up. Have you removed the venting behind the dryer? I would start there and see if there is anything visible. This would be the easiest place to start. Your landlord may want to have the vents cleaned out as well if it’s been a long time. If that doesn’t fix the problem, let us know, and we’ll help point you in the right direction for a diagnosis and repair.

Aaron, we’ve had a lot of calls lately about Whirlpool washers with louder than normal noise, and unfortunately, almost all of them are normal operating sounds. We do occasionally come across some that need work though; so determining when the sound happens and what sound it makes, can help narrow it down. I’ll attach a link to a noise search I did for “Whirlpool Washers” below and you can take a look through and maybe listen. Any other specifics you can get us would definitely be helpful in narrowing down the possibility of a problem. If you’d feel better having a service call done on it and it is still under the 1 yr. Manufacturer’s Warranty, call 1-800-253-1301 and Whirlpool will set you up with a local company. Hope this helps!

Marlene, in cases like this, we suggest first checking the main control board. I’ll add a link below showing how to access it and change it if needed. Hopefully this helps. If you get this far and it check out ok, let us know and we’ll help further diagnose.

Andrew, the 1F error code is an ice maker error. In most cases its a low water pressure issue stemming from either a plugged water saddle valve or a water solenoid valve. If you have low water pressure through your water dispenser I would replaced the saddle valve. If you don’t have low water pressure through the dispenser replace your solenoid valve. Matt Ace technician

Lori, I have a video link below to see if this helps. If it does not help you would need then to rebuild the unit or replace it with another disposer. Call our parts department at 1-800-830-5465 and they can price it both ways and give you options. Thanks Matt Ace technician

Samuel, I have some video suggestions below. Just click on the links for suggestions on your issue. Thanks Matt Ace technician

Terry, if its an E90 error that is a control board error. I have not seen a jut (90) error code as of yet. Matt Ace technician

Bill, yes you are in correct area. You could also have a plugged pump assembly. We currently do not have a videop for this model sorry. Matt Ace technician

Terrell, if your drain keeps freezing you will need to completely defrost it and use CO2 to blow out the restriction or use a turkey baster to make sure its open. Then pour hot water down the drain to make sure its open. Matt Ace technician

Sue, I want to be clear on what you are saying , the new clock display goes blank when you turn the burner knob ? If that is the case you have 4- burners does it do it with all 4- burners or just a selected burner ? If its just one you may have a shorted burner switch. If it does it with all 4-burners then replace the new clock. Matt Ace technician

Traci, If the defrost heater was red the unit was in the defrost cycle. That means the evaporator fan motor should have been in the off position and not running. Is the fan motor running at all ? Do you hear it running anytime > If not you most likely have a bad likely have a bad fan switch or a bad evaporator motor. Matt Ace technician