All Answers

Robert, as a technician for over 30 years I have run into this complaint several times. I believe the noise you hear is your compressor cycling on and off. When your compressor is shutting off I believe your noise is from the internal compressor valves hitting the interior case of the steel compressor head. Your compressor is a hermetically sealed unit and is welded together at a seem . You have a suction valve and discharge valve that pumps refrigerant through the system. The internal components sit in springs at the bottom of the compressor. It sounds like one of the springs have shifted or busted and the discharge or suction valve is hitting the interior steel head only when the unit shuts off. The only solution is a compressor replacement if in fact this is the noise. Compressors are very expensive and it may be worth $50-60 dollars to verify this is your problem. Matt Ace technician

Brittany, occasionally when this happens and the error code does not relate to any actual issue, there’s always the possibility its the main control board that is failing. We also suggest changing the “error” part (probe) that it claims but understand not wanting to if it checks out fine right now. I’ll add a video that is similar to your unit if you do choose to go ahead and try changing the control If not, have a company out to do this for you. Hope this helps!

Joe, this sounds like your ignitor failing, or beginning to. I’ll attach a video showing a diagnosis and repair, it should be similar to your model. Typically they start to not hold temperature and then eventually quit heating up altogether. Thanks for coming to us, we hope this repair goes smoothly for you and gets you working again before Thanksgiving!

Herb, if you’re comfortable taking it apart, I’d make sure the belt hasn’t slipped off or broken. The drum will not turn and the unit will not run if so. From there you could also check the start switch and ensure you haven’t blown the hi limit fuse. If it overheats it will not start. Let us know what you find or if you have any further questions.

Steve, choppers can be the issue, but occasionally there may be debris stuck in the sump as well. I’d clean that out really well and be sure it’s cleared. Also, I’ll attach a video below for you to take a look at for diagnosing and to check proper placement and installation of the chopper assembly itself. Hope this helps! Let us know.

Carolyn, noises are some of the hardest to diagnose without actually hearing them or being able to physically check them, but I’ll try and point you in the right direction. With the noise on the rinse and drain, it may be your pump. I’ll add a video for that and you may be able to compare the two. On the grinding noise during spin it may be a belt or brake, but could be both as well. I’d check the belt to see that it’s in good condition. If you watch these videos and have some more thoughts, let us know and we’d be happy to help diagnose a bit further.

Debra, we do many microwave repairs and it can really just depend on the problem and diagnosis to determine whether it is cost effective to fix. With the heat issue, it could be a diode, or magnetron, or even a board. I’ll attach a video below if you want to try and find out what’s wrong. It you’re able to, it’ll give you much better idea on what to do from there or opt to have a technician out to diagnose for you. Let us know if we can help you further!

Phillip, the LR error is a error for lock rotor , this is in the motor . The control is not seeing the motor moving or drawing amprege . The cause of the LR message can be as little problem like too much suds or a major problem like the spin bearing and sometimes it’s difficult to pin down.The LR code is displayed the motor has stopped turning for some reason. The error code can be caused by to large of load, to much soap/suds in the water or a problem with the spin bearing. could also possibly be the Water Inlet Valve w/Thermistor #22003834 not allowing water to continue filling the tub, causing it to read the load being too heavy and also leaking out the front door

Hi Brandie, Unfortunately getting those inner baskets can be EXTREMELY difficult at times. There is really no easy way to get it out. The bearing can sometimes get severeley rusted and corroded and make it next to impossible to remove. Putting it on the side will not help in my opinion. Just going to have to keep at it. Very frustrating I know.
Good Luck!
Tony-AceTech52

Hi Michelle, my guess is that the pulley under the washer is loose. If you lean the unit back, access the bottom pulley shield. Remove it by taking out the (2) 5/16th screws. This will expose the pulley. The retaining bolt sometimes backs off and causes the pulley to wobble and make the noise you are describing. If it is in fact loose… You will need to replace the cam kit assembly. I have attached a link to the cam kit. If it is not replaced, it will most likely back off again and cause further damage. Please let me know if this fixes your issue, Thanks!
Tony-AceTech52

Hi Sammy, what is the model number? It should be located inside the door on the frame.
In most cases, if your flame is turning on and only staying on for less than 10 seconds, It usually points to having some type of blockage in the blower housing and/or the exhaust vent… I would disconnect the exhaust vent front he back of the dryer and see if the flame is doing the same thing. If it is, there is most likely a blockage in the blower housing… Now if the ignitor glows, but it does not ignite the flame, it will most likely point towards your gas coils going bad. Please provide a model number and let me know if any of this helps! Thanks
Tony-AceTech52

Hi Caroline, On the bottom of disposal, there should be a hex wrench hole you can put an ellen wrench in and turn it. Sometimes the disposal will get a pit in it or some other harder item that can tie it up. Manually turning it can break it loose. Doing this works most of the time , if it spins freely, and still makes the humming noise. The disposal will need to be replaced…. Looking forward to hearing back from you and this helps!
Thanks… Tony-AceTech52

William, if you mean your hi limit fuse, which I think you do, then it sounds like you may need to change out that fuse. We do a lot of fuse and thermostats together so be sure to check both. Let us know if it doesn’t fix the issue and we’ll help diagnose further!

Hey Pat, there should be a couple screws upon opening the door, going up and in to the top. Upon removing, the top should lift up, and there should be a prop stick under the top similar to a car hood. It is advised to unplug the unit before doing this. if you have any other questions feel free to ask, we will work on getting a video together that gives a in depth tutorial on how to access this particular unit.
Thanks, Tony-AceTech52

Hi Dawn, It is not recommended to move the burners. So to answer your question, No you can not move the large burner to another location unfortunately… Sorry!
Thanks Tony-AceTech52

Hi Bret, We will need a valid model number in order to properly help you through your repair. What you provided is not a model number. The MN should be located in side the door on the frame. starting with “110.” most likely. If I were to guess, I would say that your thermal fuse and thermistor will need to be replaced. But, you will need a multimeter to confirm this. Upon providing us with a model number, I will direct you towards the links to purchase the necessary parts, along with repair help videos. If your thermal fuse is in fact bad, you will need to remove the blower housing and inspect the exhaust vent to make sure there is no blockage in the unit causing restricted airflow causing the fuse to blow. Hope this helps.
Thanks, Tony-AceTech52

Hi Tips, What you will need to do is rotate the knob like 5 times to the left, to reset it. Then while in stand by mode, ( no lights on) go R, L, R, R, R, L, R…. All lights should blink. Turn once to the right so the “done” light is illuminated, and hit start. All lights should blink, Turn knob one more time to the right, and It should start showing error codes. Please let us know if this works.
In regards to your washer not starting, Make sure water is turned on and valves are good also. Will not run without water. hot and cold. please let us know what error codes you find and we will go from there! I am also attaching a video that should help…
Thanks! Tony-AceTech52