All Answers

Hi. IF you turned the pulley with the belt off I would suspect a bad transmission, or something stuck between the tubs. If the belt was on make sure your motor pulley and drain pump pulley spin freely. Also, Check to see if the belt is worn. I have attached some videos that will help you diagnose the issue.

Hi Quintin, Thank you for your question. Few things we will need to check. First, make sure that when you open your freezer door, that the evap fan motor is running. You should be able to hear it with no problem. If it is not running, but the compressor is, you will need to make sure the fan is getting 120 volts with a multimeter. If it is receiving 120v and not running your fan will have to be replaced. If the fan is running upon opening the freezer door, check to see if the back panel is completely frosted up. If in fact it is, you will be looking at a defrost issue. If the Refrigerator is just sitting idle and does not seem to be running at all, ( no fan, no compressor, no noise really at all) you could be looking at a defrost timer also… Check your fridge for these few symptoms, and please get back to us with anymore information you can provide.
Attached is links to the timer, fan motor, defrost heater and defrost thermostat…. You may also want to remove the back panel by compressor and verify that the compressor fan motor is running.
Thanks, Tony-AceTech52

Hello. The clean light blinking means your dishwasher has an error code. The number of times it blinks refers to the specific error code it has. Your tech sheet is located under the toe panel of your unit. It will explain the error codes. Count how may times it blinks before the pause and look into the tech sheet for that error code. Let me know what you find out.

HI. The debris in the cabinet are normal. The drum is not air tight as it turns which allows lint and things from your pockets to fall into the bottom. To test your components you will need to set your multimeter to Ohms or the Ohms audible tone setting. IF you are getting an Ohms reading or an audible tone across the component you are testing it is good. When you test a bad component such as a fuse you will get 0 ohms or no audible tone.

With a correct model number and some more information on the issue we will be able to better assist you.

Hi Rusty. It does not seem like a bad thermal fuse. If the thermal fuse was bad it would prevent the unit from running, even in diagnostic mode. The first thing I would do is check your incoming voltage and connections. You may have a short somewhere. At what point in the diagnostic mode does the unit shut down? Is it the same spot every time? Possibly when the wash motor tries to come on? Are you able to get any error codes? Test these things and let me know what you find out.

Check to see if you are getting any cold water during the wash cycle. Select cold water and start your washer. IF you do not get any cold water entering your unit you may have a bad inlet valve or you not getting water to the unit. If you are getting cold water into the unit you may have a issue with the timer. If the unit works fine for everything else, Including the spin cycle, I would say the issue is in the timer. If the washer fills and washes and then when it gets to the rinse cycle it just stops and will not advance you may have a bad lid switch just like in the video.

Tebo, It looks like you watched some of our videos to fix your issue. What you did is correct and this should rectify your problem completely. Matt Ace technician

mama, we do not have a video on this model. I did provide a detailed parts breakdown of the appliance . Just click on the link below. Matt Ace technician

kmitilier
What is the model number and we will need more details on your issue. Matt Ace technician

Does it actually read “f-09” not “r-09”? An F-09 error would indicate an issue with the drainage system. Is this a new install? If the drain line runs beyond a certain length and/or height you will get a drain error and cause the machine to fail. If this unit has been around a while check to make sure you to not have a clog in the drain line and also check to make sure your drain pump does not have an obstruction in it. If the drain pump just hums and the error pops again you many need to replace your drain pump. Recheck that error and let us know!

You have a couple of variables when it comes to low flame. The first I would suspect would be your pressure regulator. If you are having issues with your cook top and with your oven that is the primary supply for both. Also has it recently been converted from LP to Natural gas or vise verse? Not changing all the required orifices or adjusting the regulator properly can create the problem you are having too. Is there a constant gas smell coming from the stove? You can use a pipe cleaner to clear out some of the build up on the burners, however being you have the same issue with your oven as well as with your cook top I would have to lean towards that regulator needing adjusted or replaced. OEM part number is: WB19K10077 unfortunately it looks that that part may not be available any longer, I do not show any distributors in the county with stock. The attached video is not an exact match, but would be a similar repair as what would be on your stove. Good luck!

 It could very well be your ice maker, however we have been finding on that Maytag line to other common problems.  First you will want to see if the fill valve calling for water, you can test continuity across the solenoids on the valve.   If the plunger assembly is not opening to allow water through to the ice maker that could be your problem.   We also have seen the water line that feed the ice-maker freeze up on these models, especially with only minimal use of the ice maker.   
 This model is a bit tricky on the location of the water valve, it is in the refrigerator section back wall and you have to take quite a few parts off to get to it.    Before replacing the ice maker you are going to want to check both  the valve and make sure the water line has not froze up on you.    The video link attached is not for your exact model but it should lead you in the right direction.  

Good luck!

Kathryn, on your Maytag washer with your symptom , you have a bad clutch or transmission. Both are very detailed repairs that will need to done by a technician or its time to purchase a new unit.Good luck Matt Ace technician

Tommy, it sounds like you may have a defective magnatron or diode. With your symptom that should take care of your problem. Matt Ace technician

Jon, you do have the correct part number for your model. I added a link to purchase below. I looked through our videos and found one as close as possible to your model, hopefully this will give you some good visuals, it is added underneath this. If you do get into this repair and have further questions, feel free to come back and ask. Or if you have some symptoms or description of what’s happening currently we can help diagnose. Let us know how it goes!

Derek, this is a pretty straightforward repair and sounds like your ignitor has failed. It may have held on for awhile when it was taking a long time to heat up but most likely wasn’t maintaining the setting even then. I’ll attach a link below for the part you’ll need: 5303935066, and a video as well so you get diagnose this properly and get it taken care of yourself. Should you need any further help, let us know. Good luck!