All Answers

Hi Anna, typically this happens when the drain from the freezer above becomes clogged or frozen. Then in defrost mode the water has no where to drain and runs down the cold air openings into the refrigerator section. Even a little bit consistently builds up quite quickly over a period of time. I’ll add a video below to show how to access that back panel of the freezer and clear the drain. If you think there’s more involved or this isn’t the issue, let us know and we can further diagnose.

Zak, you are right in that this error is the shorted keypad, and unfortunately it’s a pretty pricey repair. The part link is below for the electronic control (W10349613) details. Unless this is under warranty (in which case you can call Whirlpool directly 800-253-1301) a lot of people opt not to spend the money on this repair. But I’ll attach one of our premium videos below for you that will cover this exact procedure step-by-step. Let us know if there’s more we can do for you from here.

Olivia, we always suggest a couple other basic checks. Like is there lint build up at the venting directly in the wall that you can see? Or possibly build up in the blower housing inside the back of the dryer? Restricted air flow can be a problem. We also suggest having your venting cleaned out routinely and being sure to check your outside vent as well to ensure it’s not clogged. That being said, there are a couple parts as well that could have failed. We replace a lot of thermostats (3387134) and thermal fuses (3392519) on these dryers. I’ll attach a video below for you to watch and it shows how to check them as well as replace each or both if necessary. Part links for purchase are below as well. Let us know if there’s more we can do!

Samantha, rugs tend to not fair so well if any of the actual fibers or backing are beginning to come loose. They get stuck and tie up the drain pump. If you want to try and replace it yourself I’ll link a video below as well as the part (WH23X10030) for you to purchase. Although there is not a video for your model or specific part #, I’ll give you one that is very similar. Lid switches are a common problem for this type of symptom as well so I’m glad you’ve ruled that out. If you need further help, let us know!

Dave, It could be an unbalanced load or a bad balance ring. Matt Ace technician

Tom, this sounds like you have a motor that is weak. If you can turn the drum easily with the unit in off position that is telling you drum guides and rollers are fine. I would then replace the motor. Matt Ace technician

mrfixit, I have consulted with two technicians that said they recommend trying another board if the evaporator fan motor is running . The evaporator fan motor on this model shorts out the new control board. Make sure you read the instructions on the new board installation because this is a universal board based on specific model and serial numbers. If not installed properly from instructions the unit will not function. Matt Ace technician

Andrew, the clicking noise from the compressor you hear is the overload that is attached to the compressor as a safety device. This clinking noise means that you either have a a locked up compressor or a defective starting device. I would start with the compressor relay and overload that is the starting components. If you replace these and the compressor does not start you have a bad compressor. Matt Ace technician

Billrod63,
The F6 E6 code usually indicates a fill problem. The F6 function code indicates the water inlet valve and the E4 problem code is a float switch issue. Common causes is float being out of position in the bottom of the tub. The float switch might be the problem but that can be checked with a voltage ohm meter .Always turn the power off first. Thanks Matt Ace technician

armgua, thank you for being a fan of our website. We have 40-50 new videos every month coming out. After evaluating your systems you definitely have a dead short to ground. I would start by unpluging the harness to the control board and put electrical tape on the harness for safety purposes. Then plug in the unit to see if it trips the breaker. You can do this for the board and touch pad to determine which control is shorted. Let us know how it works out. Matt Ace technician

To test your shocks on your washer press down on the tub and release. It should bounce one time and stop. If when you push down and release the tub bounces multiple times you have bad shocks. I have attached a repair video for you as well as a link to purchase the shocks. If your shocks are not bad there are some other issues that would cause the UL error code, such as a bad bearing or control board. Let me know if you need any help.

HI. You could have an issue with the dispenser paddle switch or dispenser bracket. The dispenser bracket is common to break where it holds the switch in place. I have attached 2 repair videos that show you how to diagnose and repair the issue you are having. I have also attached the link to purchase the dispenser bracket if you need it. If you need any further help just let me know.

Hi. We have a great video that shows the exact same issue with your dishwasher. I have attached this video for you. Just like in the video, you will want to run the diagnostic mode to see if your unit is filling with water correctly. If its not getting proper water pressure you may need a new inlet valve. I would make sure you have good water pressure leading up to the dishwasher first. Your model number is not complete. Call (800) 816-0715 to order any parts you need.

Without going into issues of the the fan motors running or not running, you first want to make sure you have power going down to the compressor. If you have power down to the compressor and the compressor is running, even without the fans running you should have some sort of frost build up. If you have no frost at all you most likely have a sealed system issue and it is time to pull out the gauges and the multi-meter to check the compressor. Back to the fan motors, it does look like there is another board that supplies power to the main board, that may be the root of your fan issues if you have no power going to the motor itself, there is a diagnostic mode you can put the unit into from the display panel that may help you pin down your motor issues better. If you do not have the original GE tech sheet try searching for : RF267 this should be a comparable Samsung model you can get reference material on, GE, for whatever reason, seems to keep the majority of their helpful material under lock and key.

Good luck!

HI. I have seen this issue before. You most likely have a bad control board. It could also be caused by a bad timer, but if your timer is advancing through the cycle on a timed dry its more likely the control board. There is also a moisture sensor that could be faulty causing this issue. I have attached links for the timer and control board. IF you need further help please let me know.

Hi. I have attached a video for a similar dryer. This will show you how to possibly put your unit in to diagnostic mode to retrieve any error codes. Sounds like you may have a voltage issue. Check your wire connections and voltage coming into the unit.

Dayle, If you did this it sounds like the motor is drawing high amprege. You will need either to rebuild the disposal or replace it. If the disposal is more that 3 years old I would consider replacing it. Matt Ace technician