All Answers

the maytag fridge is pretty much the same fridge as the whirlppol so the video your looking will do the same repairs to this fridge and same parts alll the same process, but getting back to the issue it sounds to me like the drain tube is plugged and needs to be changed to the new style drain tube, let us know if you have more questions

Stewart, the DH code is a code used for units that are not defrosting properly. If you unplug the unit for 15 minutes it will reset the board and clear the error. If it comes back that is an indication a part of your defrost system is bad. That could be control board, heater or thermostat.Matt Ace technician

Grant, if you have a weak run capacitor on the motor it will cause this issue. You could also have have a defective winding in the motor that is overheating and shutting of on the internal overload.I would start with the capacitor since it is very inexpensive. Matt Ace technician

Hi. I have attached a video that shows where your tech sheet is located in the dishwasher and how to run a diagnostic mode. The first thing we want to do is to put the unit into diagnostics to test the components and see if there are any stored error codes. This will help diagnose the problem. Please let me know what you find out after performing diagnostics.

Mohammed, my best guess at this point considering the other repairs you’ve already done would be your shift actuator: W10006355, I’ll add a video below for it. This will also show you how to run a quick diagnostic to see what’s happening and any stored error codes. I’ll link the part as well if you’d like to purchase through us. If you need some further help, feel free to come back and ask!

Ethan, if the belt is still in one piece and attached it’s possible it slipped off the idler pulley or the idler pulley is failing. I’ll attach a video to that extent if it does need replaced and it also shows how to access it. Hope this helps! Let us know if there’s anything more we can do for you.

Eden, I’m attaching a great video below for you to take a look at, it walks through some other potential problems/fixes for a what may seem like a compressor issue. In the video it is indeed a failed compressor so there’s always that possibility. A bad control board, sealed system leak, or starting components could be culprits as well. If you need further help or have some more specifics once you get into checking the unit out, let us know; we’d be happy to help!

Mike , on this unit it has the hidden bake element. You need to pull the unit out and on the bottom right hand side you will see an access panel. Take off the panel and the element will slide out from the side. You cannot access the bake element from the front. See link below. Matt Ace technician http://lookup.appliancevideo.com/lookup/91193/555811/1#1

Hi. The first thing I would try is to reset the unit by turning power off to it for 5 mins. If this does not work you either have a bad control board or user interface. The start button may no longer be working on the user interface, or the control board will not start the wash cycle once the button is pressed. I have attached links for both parts. Its hard to say witch part has failed. With the tech sheet (should be located under the toe panel) and a multi-meter you could test the start button circuit on the user interface. I have also attached a control board repair video. Its not for your exact model but it will give you a good idea of what needs to be done. If you need any further assistance please let me know.

HI. If you have proper power to the unit I would check for proper power at the control board. To check for power to the board you will what to check at the following points.

Check voltage at Pin #1 and Pin #3 of CN5……………………………………………..
Check voltage at Pin #1 of CN5 and Pin #1 of CN6………………………………..
You should have 120 volts at both test points.

IF you have proper power to the board you have a bad control board if your not getting any response from buttons or not display. The control board that you need is determined by the serial number. Please call (800) 816-0715 with you serial number for your control board. If you need any further help please let me know.

See repair video that can help on this model ..https://www.appliancevideo.com/kitchenaid-ksrs251lss02-refrigerator-repair-frosting-up-and-leaking-water-drain-tube/
Sounds like you have sealed system failure. You have a leak in the system to where the refrigerant has leaked out. They have had issues with the model you have. You have a dual evaporator system. To fix this issue the Fresh food evaporator needs to be replaced, if you have not already had this repair done yet. The symptoms are warm temps in both sections and slow or no ice production. Even if your unit is out of warranty the manufacture should cover the repair. You will need to set up a service call through kitchen aid. The tech has to come out and call tech line while he is with the unit to verify what needs to be done. There is a service pointer and job aid number related to this repair that you could mention to them as well. SP# W10666205A and Job aid # R-114 or Job aid W10444924. I hope this has been helpful. If you need further help please let us know.

 The blinking lights on the control panel are error code indicators, by reviewing your technical reference guide (usually hidden behind the toe panel) these lights will help you determine what specific part of the system may be having issues.  Turning off the breaker and turning it back on may have reset the error codes momentarily.  However, having the unit, running, then draining, and now failing to start or respond,  it sounds like the place to start may be with  your thermal fuse.
The manufacture has redesigned the fuse and harness on this unit, make sure you replace both or you WILL be doing the repair again.    If the flashing lights come back on again, refer to the tech-sheet and match up the lights with the error codes from there.  

Good luck on the repair!

Juan, if the unit is only running for five minutes you may have a bad control board or sealed system issue. The link on your appliance breakdown is below. Matt Ace technician

Chandler, the only other thing I can think of to have you check is s the Thermal Cut Off or Thermal Fuse: 279816. We replace them a lot with the thermostat but it’s possible that is all that has failed. I’ll attach a video below as well as a part link for you to purchase if needed. Let us know if this doesn’t fix it and we’ll help you diagnose further!

Laura, this sounds like a faulty water inlet valve: 8182862. It tends to leak on either the cold or hot when not working properly. I’ll attach a video below on replacing it, as well as the part link you’ll need to purchase a new one. Let us know if we can be of further assistance to you!

Janina, this tends to happen when your drain line is frozen or clogged. Sometimes you can clear the ice or defrost it and it works fine again indefinitely, other times a different drain configuration or trough needs to be swapped out for better air flow. I’ll attach a video below for you to take a look at. Hopefully this fixes your issue. You’ll need to keep the unit closed up after and see if it reaches an appropriate temperature. Let us know if there’s anything else we can do for you!

Marco,
There’s a few things this could be. We typically install dryer kits: 4392067 which include a belt, idler, and rollers to alleviate any possible noise from those parts. But you could replace them individually if you think it’s just isolated to a specific issue to one of them. I’ll add the kit part number below for you and a link to a repair video that should be helpful. If you find the issue to be something different let us know and we’ll further help you diagnose.