0 votes

Sorry to hear the control did not work. Yes, I would replace the touch panel. This should fix you issue. I have attached a link again to purchase the part. We do not have a video for your model yet, but I have attached a similar video that will show you how to replace a control panel.

0 votes

Hi. I have seen this issue with this washer before. You have a bad transmission and will need to replace your transmission to fix the issue. I have attached a video that is for a different symptom but show the components related to the issue your having. Under the washer if you remove your belt and spin the large center pulley counter clockwise the whole drum should start to spin. The gears in the transmission are broken and stuck in an agitate mode. A lot of times when this happens you will find oil under your washer leaking from the transmission. I have attached a link to purchase the Transmission.

0 votes

Hi Larry, it would be helpful if you could provide us with a model number to your washer. should be located under the lid or on the back of the main console. Sounds like you may have some blockage in your tub to pump hose OR you may something actually stuck in the pump. You may have to manually drain the water from the washer with a shop vac or use some hose clamps to take apart the pump. Please get back to us with a model number so we can provide better advice and instructions! thanks
Tony-AceTech52

0 votes

Paul, There will be a diagnostic chart in the in the front under the kick plate or in the back by the cover of the circuit board. You will need this to put the unit in the diagnostic mode. Once you find it email us back for further help. I have also provided you with the parts breakdown for your unit. Matt Ace technician

0 votes
In reply to: broiler won't shut off

Steve, Its a strong possibility that you main gas valve is stuck in the open position. They have a diaphragm that opes and closes when energized. It sounds like it may have stuck in the open position.

0 votes

Steve, I cannot find a video for the door assembly. I have provided a complete breakdown of your appliance in the link below on how the door comes apart. Matt Ace technician

0 votes

Judy, you have a plugged condensate drain. See video below on how to correct it. To pay a company it would cost $100.00 to #175.00 Matt Ace technician

0 votes

THANKS FOR YOUR HELP. WE ALREADY FORKED OUT $120 AND REPLACE THE CONTROL BOARD AND THE ERROR CODE IS STILL FLASHING. I GUESS WE NEED TO WORK ON THE TOUCH PANEL OR CONSOLE, HUH? That should do it, right? Is there a video showing how to do this?

  • CHRIS HIGGINBOTHAM answered 12 years ago
0 votes

Tegan, unfortunately the timer does not normally cause this. We typically find the main culprit in cycling issues is the lid switch. I’ll attach a video for you to take a look at and then you can get back to us if you find that this isn’t the issue and we’ll help you diagnose from there. The part number is 285671 and I’ll link it below so you can purchase if necessary. Good luck!

0 votes

Zara,
I’m thinking that it may be your inlet valve, they are not always located near the dispenser depending on where the lines run, and it would definitely cause a puddle if it was consistently dripping. It’s possible it’s your drain pan – so that’s worth checking when you have it pulled out as well. I’ll attach the inlet valve for your model: WR57X10032 in case you do need it, and a video on replacing it should that be your issue. Let us know if there’s anything else we can do for you!

0 votes

Seth, the thermostat would be a good place to start since the coils are fine. The thermostat for your unit is 3391912. The second thing from there is that most likely the Limiter Kit or Thermal Cut Off: 8573713 will also need to be checked and most likely replaced as well. We do them together often. I’ll attach part links below. If you’d like some video help I’ll add one for you take a look at as well on replacing the Cut Off. Hope this helps!

0 votes

Nicholas, If you’ve checked the board and heater, the next thing I’d assume that could fail was defrost timer. I’ll attach a video for it below if you need help in how to access it, as well as the part link if you want to purchase through us. If this isn’t the problem, come back an let us know, we’ll help you diagnose from there.

0 votes
In reply to: Washer belt broke off

Roy, I took a look through our videos and came up with a couple that should help. I wasn’t sure on the configuration of your model from the parts breakdown so I’m attaching both. Also, the part number for your belt is 134511600 and I’m giving you a link to purchase if you haven’t already. If these videos aren’t correct or you need some further clarification, don’t hesitate to come back and ask us!

0 votes

Rebecca, I can definitely point you in the right direction. The part number for your heating element is 5300622032, it was a little more difficult to find than most for some reason. This is a very common problem when dryers quit heating. Also, I found a repair video for a different model dryer but it should be very similar to what you’re looking for. I’ll add the link for the part and video below. Let us know if there’s anything more we can do!

0 votes
In reply to: Error code sd

Mike, C7 is problem with agitation action and draining issues. Unplug or turn the circuit breaker off for 30 seconds.
Reconnect unit to the power source by turning the breaker back on or plugging the unit into the wall outlet.
Wait for the control to recognize all components, this takes about 45 seconds.
Press the Pause, Cancel or Stop button twice to reset the display.
To test operation ,select Drain and Spin cycle, then press and hold the start button until the washer starts.Lets us know if this works. Matt Ace technician

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0 votes

If nothing is responding on the control panel and your sure its not in control locked mode, you will either need to replace the user interface, or control board. Its hard to say which one has failed. I would say there’s a better chance that the user interface is the faulty part. I have attached links for both parts. I have also attached a video that shows you how to replace the control board.

0 votes

It didn’t work.

  • Desiree answered 12 years ago
0 votes
In reply to: Oven won't light...

HI. No, if the igniter is not working the gas valve will not allow any gas to come out. It does sound like you have a bad bake igniter. IF you wanted to test it to make sure you would need a meter to check that you are getting 120 volts to the bake igniter during the bake cycle. I have attached a link to purchase your bake igniterand a video that shows this repair on a similar model. IF you need any further help please let me know.

0 votes

Hi. It sounds like you have a faulty door switch causing it to run when the door is shut. The loud noise could the hood or control fan motors, or possibly the turn table motor. Run the hood fan by itself to confirm or eliminate the noise coming from this part. Also, turn the turntable on and off to verify this part as well. I have attached links to purchase the door switches. There are 3 different door switches to test. If you need any further help please let me know.

0 votes

Hi. I am not finding a F16 error code for this model. If you have proper power to the board and not getting a display you have a bad control board or user interface. Try unplugging the unit for 5 mins and plugging it back in to reset the control. I have attached links to purchase the control board and user interface if you need them. Your tech sheet should be located near the control board.

Here is what the tech sheet has listed for the issue you are having.

TEST #6 Buttons and Indicators
This test is performed when any of the following
situations occurs during the Console Buttons and
Indicators Diagnostic Test, page 1:
✓ None of the indicators light up
✓ No beep sound is heard
✓ Some buttons do not light indicators
None of the indicators light up:
1. See Diagnostic Guide/Before Servicing…
on page 1.
2. Perform TEST #1, page 4 to verify supply
connections.
3. Perform TEST #2, page 4.
4. Perform steps in Accessing & Removing the
Electronic Assemblies, page 8 and visually check
that the P5 connector is inserted all the way into
the machine control electronics.
5. Visually check that the user interface assembly
is properly inserted into the front console.
6. If both visual checks pass, replace the user
interface assembly.
7. Plug in dryer or reconnect power.
8. Perform the Console Buttons and Indicators
Diagnostic test, page 1 to verify repair.
9. If indicators still do not light, the machine control
electronics has failed:
Unplug dryer or disconnect power.
Replace the machine control electronics.
Plug in dryer or reconnect power.
Perform the Console Buttons and Indicators
Diagnostic test, page 1 to verify repair.
No beep sound is heard:
1. Perform steps in Accessing & Removing the
Electronic Assemblies, page 8 and visually check
that the P5 connector is inserted all the way into
the machine control electronics.
If visual check passes, replace the user
interface assembly.
2. Plug in dryer or reconnect power.
3. Perform the Console Buttons and Indicators
Diagnostic test, page 1 to verify repair.
4. If replacing the user interface assembly failed:
Unplug dryer or disconnect power.
Replace the machine control electronics.
Plug in dryer or reconnect power.
Perform the Console Buttons and Indicators
Diagnostic test, page 1 to verify repair.

Some buttons do not light indicators:
1. Perform steps in Accessing & Removing the
Electronic Assemblies, page 8 and visually check
the user interface assembly connections.
If visual check passes, replace the user
interface assembly.
2. Plug in dryer or reconnect power.
3. Perform the Console Buttons and Indicators
Diagnostics test, page 1 to verify repair.

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