All Answers

Hi Diane, Thank you for your question. First things first is that you should never put wet pans on your gas cook top. The water can drip down into the sparking mechanism and damage it. This could become a costly repair. What I would try first is shut the power off to the unit for AT LEAST 48 hours to allow it sufficient time to completely dry. Do not use wet pans anymore and see if you still have the same problem. Pleas let us know and we will go from there.
Thank You, Tony-AceTech52

HI. It sounds like you have a defrost issue. You could have a bad defrost sensor, fuse, heater, or control board. I have attached a video to show you how to get to the defrost parts and test them. I would test your heater and fuse first. If they test good I would replace the sensor. You also could have a clogged drain tube creating this issue. I have attached a video for that as well. Also, I have attached a link to purchase your defrost parts. They can be bought separately, however this covers everything except the control board which is no common to fail for this issue. IF you need any further help please let me know.

Hi. The first thing I would do is turn the power off to the unit for 5 mins. Then turn back on and see if it will operate. Let me know what you find out.

Hi Justin,
First I would check to see if the ice maker is getting voltage be removing the front panel to the ice maker. The test points should be L and N. Depending on where the ice maker is the door switch may have to be closed when checking for the voltage. Once you have determined that the ice maker is getting voltage you can then jump out the ice maker to cause it to cycle. Using an insulated jumper wire, place the wire in test points T and H. This will run power through the thermostat and heater in the ice maker, again you may have to close the door switch. If the thermostat and heater are not shorted the ice maker will begin to “cycle.” If it does not cycle and “power” voltage is reaching the ice maker then the ice maker is bad. Good luck!

Here is a link to 29 Samsung repair videos. https://www.appliancevideo.com/appliances/samsung-rf263teaesr-refrigerator/ If you need any parts call our parts department at 1-800-830-5465 or order on line at http://www.savemoreonparts.com

HI. First I would reset the unit by unplugging it for 5 mins and plug it back in. See if this corrects your issue. The beeping it does may be the unit giving an error code. Next we can put it into a diagnostic mode. Below are the steps to do that.

2) Self-diagnosis with initial power on
2-1) When pressing the Super Freeze button and the Super Cool button simultaneously for 6 sec during normal operation, the entire temperature setting display will blink for 2 sec at the interval of 0.5 sec and when pressing the Super Cool button and the Super Cool button simultaneously for 8 sec including 2 sec blinking, self-diagnosis will be selected.

2-2) It goes into the Self Diagnosis function with a “Ding-Dong” sound and it shows error codes on the LED display.And then,it will be restored to the normal operation.

2-3) During self-diagnosis,button inputs will not be recognized but only the canceling buttons

Error codes on this unit are represented by one of the pieces of the number digits flashing.

The temps are warmer than they should be. Getting the error codes will be the best way to find out what is going on with the unit.

Please let me know what you find out.

HI. This does sound like a bad transmission. As long as the belts check good and the motor pulley and drain pulleys are not seized up, you have a bad transmission. It is unlikely any of these would be an issue if the unit is spinning properly. Also, with the transmission being had to rotate manually in the agitate direction is a sign of a bad transmission as well. I am not finding any videos related to the transmission repair, but I have attached a link for the part. This is a labor intensive job and I would not recommend anyone with out experience taking on this job. IF you need any further help please let me know.

The clicking could be coming from your start components on the compressor or the control board. You should check to see if you are getting 120 v to the compressor. If you are, then you could have a bad overload and relay or compressor. IF your not getting 120 v to the compressor you could have a bad connection or a faulty control board. If you need any further assistance please let me know.

Hi. Since you can turn the motor freely with the wrench, there is nothing jamming it up preventing it from starting up. So it has a bad motor because it still hums and trips its breaker. You will need to install a new disposal. You you need any further help please let me know.

If there was excessive frost build up on the evaporator, you may have a defrost issue. It will work for about a week since you defrosted it, if this was in fact the issue, then temps will get warm again. It sounds like you have only had it up and running for 2 hours. It can take much longer to cool down. It may take a maximum of 24 hrs for temps to reach normal. You should continue to see the temps. get colder as time goes by. IF you have any further questions just let me know. You model number does not appear to be correct.

Dontan, if you have an open element you will need to replace the element. If you did a continuity test and the element shows no continuity there is no way to repair it. Call our parts at 1-800-830-5465 and they can help you find and ship the element to you today. Thanks Matt Ace technician

Hi Victor, sounds like one of your belts under the washer broke, or is damaged is some way. Lean washer back and inspect. This could also be the source of the smell. If they are damaged in any way, they will need replaced. Attached is links to both belts.

Mary,
Thanks for stopping by our page here. I’ll try to help you. A lot of times, the lid switch is the culprit for your washer not cycling properly. I’ll attach a video below for you to watch that should be similar to your unit. Have your husband see if it’s something he’d be willing to try. If you don’t feel comfortable doing the repair yourself, you can always call in a professional repair technician that lives in your area to do this for you.
But should you want to try this yourself, I also added the part you’d need to order. Most repairs are worth doing and the cost won’t exceed that of buying new, but it is always a personal preference. If you don’t think this is the issue we can explore some other options, so let us know.

Ken,
Here’s the part number for your gas coils: 5303931775. You can purchase it from the link below. Also have him check your thermal fuse as well when he has it apart. I’ll attach a video for the repair if he happens to need the help. Let us know if there’s anything else we can do for you.

Roger,
The best way is checking whether the ignitor has actually failed. It sounds like that is your issue but watch the video below to help diagnose and repair if needed. This is a common part and I’ve attached the link for it as well. Please let us know if there’s more we can do!

Noelle,
I didn’t find one of our videos, but one by repair clinic that I think would be helpful in getting to the pump and possibly replacing it if needed. It’s possible the pump has failed or seized if you think you’ve cleared out as far down as you can into the drain/chopper area and it still does not progress past that point. Let us know if we can help further!

Hugh,
This typically happens because the lid switch is either loose, broken, or bad. I’ll attach a diagnostic and repair video below so you can further deduce whether this is what’s happening. I’ll also put a link for you to purchase the part if necessary, it’s # is 8318084. If you don’t think this is case, let us know and we’ll help you figure out the problem.