All Answers

HI. This sounds like a faulty control board. When you start a bake cycle the relay on the control board sends power to the element and the element heats up. Then the temp. sensor (which is the t-stat) cycle the heat on and off to maintain your set temperature. You could have a bad sensor, but not likely if it was replaced. Also, you could have a short in the wiring somewhere creating this issue. Does this happen on the broil cycle as well? If no shorts in the wiring I would replace the control board. I a have attached a link to purchase the board if you find you need it. If you need any further help, just let me know.

Before you begin replacing parts  you are going to want to try and get the unit into a diagnostic mode to help you determine what part of the circuit is failing on you.  

You start the diagnostic mode by following the step below:

 To get the dishwasher into the diagnostics mode make sure the unit is in the "power Off" mode and the display is blank.

To enter the diagnostic mode press and hold down the KEYLOVK button and the START/PAUSE button at the same time and hold for 5 seconds. Make sure to push the KEYLOCK button first.

Follow the link below to walk through the rest of the diagnostic process and let us know how you do! Good luck!

you need to ck for power at outlet with a meter should have 240 at outlet ck l1 to common and l2 to common should hve 120v than ck l1 to l2 should have 240 ck connections at power cord also

Bob, This is an adaptive defrost system. To put it into the defrost cycle you will need the tech. sheet that is provided with the refrigerator. That will show and explain how to do this for your specific model. I also provided a link to explain how the adaptive defrost control works. Thanks Matt Ace technician

Hi William, If you have tested your heating element, and it has continuity, in most cases what has failed is the control board. But FIRST, I would make sure that there is nothing stuck in the drain and holding up the impeller. If this checks out, then, we are back to the main control. There is a test you can do to confirm this.
Try pushing the heat dry and then normal back to back three times and then start as usual. This should clear the problem. It is only a temporary fix as the error will most likely return. Attached is a link to the control board.
Thanks, Tony-AceTech52

Hello allaboutappliances, your model number you provided didn’t seem to be valid… BUT by the looks of your error code, your Kenmore Washer is actually made by LG. LE means that your washer control thinks that the motor is struggling to turn the tub. Now generally this is a false error and isn’t the case at all. But just to make sure, open the door and spin the tub by hand to make sure it spins smoothly. If so, then that means you likely have a common problem where the hall sensor (also known as the RPS sensor) attached to the motor has failed and will need to be replaced because it’s not measuring the motor’s strain properly. If you pull the washer out and unplug the washer, you can remove the screws going into the back access panel and set the access panel off to the side. Remove the bolts holding the rotor and motor onto the tub which are located directly in the middle on the back of the tub. There is a plastic sensor clipped onto the back side of the motor with a few small wires going to it. This is your RPS sensor you need to replace. Attached is a link to the Sensor and a how to replace video… Once again, your model number did not come up when I plugged it in, so I am just going off of my past experience and a very general explanation. If you could provide a valid model that would be helpful… Please let me know if this applied to your model…
Thanks, Tony-AceTech52

Hi Barlen, make sure it is not overloaded with baking sheets or pans in the bottom storage drawer, I have seen this happen causing the Bake electrode short to ground and not sparking (clicking) to reignite. In other cases, i have seen the main control be the problem, the main control does not send 120v down to the electrode. In order to determine if it is the control board, you will need to refer to the schematic and test for 120v from the board to the bake electrode. If it is not sending the appropraite voltage to the electrode, the main control will need to be replaced. You should also make sure the temperature sensor’s resistance is in range. Using a multimeter, set to ohms, At room temperature it should be around 1080 ohms. Attached is a link to the Temp sensor and main control. These diagnostics for this particular repair can be a little tricky, and in most cases would refer you to a professional technician. Always make sure to unplug unit before servicing.
Thanks, Tony-AceTech52

Hello hussein Youssef, I would first check to see if your back panel in the freezer is completely frosted over. If so, it will need to be shut down for 24 hours with the doors open to properly defrost. The code for your particular refrigerator will be located next to the model number on the inside tag. It should be located in the fresh food section on the right towards the top. It will list the model number, serial, CODE, type of refrigerant, and amount of refrigerant. Any problems locating, please reply!
Thanks, Tony-AceTech52

Phillip, If you are getting frost build up on the back wall you have one of two thinks happening. Either you have a part of your defrost system out or you have a bad freezer or refrigerator door seal that is not sealing properly. If its an even frost pattern all away across the cover it will be a defrost issue. If you have frost just in one area check your door seals. Matt Ace technician

Ray, you will need to take off the freezer door inner liner to access the water line. See below for the door breakdown provided. Matt Ace technician

Ron, see below the link for your model and the switch control panel. Matt Ace technician

HI. This symptom of the divider getting hot and the unit not cooling properly is a sign of the compressor overheating, either from dirty condenser coils or a bad condenser fan motor. First check and clean your condenser coils underneath the unit. The take off the back panel and see if the condenser fan motor is running. Let me know what you find. Good luck!

I have attached a video to show how to put this unit into diagnostic mode. It shows where your tech sheet should be located so you can perform tests on different components. IF this service mode is what you were referring to as not working on your unit then that would be a faulty control board at least in the aspect of not being able to enter diagnostic mode. Your compressor when running should draw about 1.0 amps if working properly and not low on charge. I would check to see if you getting 120 volts to the compressor. IF you are getting 120 v to the compressor you have faulty start components or a faulty compressor. IF the compressor is getting 120 v and drawing only .3 amps you have a faulty compressor or you are low on charge (Freon). IF you have questions just let me know.

Sorry, we do not service that area. We are based out of OH. I would see what company gets the best reviews in your area when choosing a service company. If you have any other questions, just let me know.

HI. The part number for the latest p-style drain tube kit is P# W10619951. Attached is a link to purchase the part. If you need any further help please ask.

Jim, You may have a bad water level pressure control. Or if your water pressure hose has a crack or pin hole in it you will fill and stop. I would inspect the pressure hose and if it looks good replaced the pressure control. Always put a 110 in front of your model number with Kenmore products. Call our parts with pricing and same day shipping at 1-800-830-5465. Thanks Matt Ace technician

Hi. I glad you liked the video and it has helped you! If you did not take apart the freezer to remove the ice from the drain tube then I’m afraid 4 hours was not long enough to thaw it out. I would unplug unit and leave the doors open for at least 12 hours. The longer the better and I usually recommend 24 hrs. When water starts flowing down the drain tube you installed into the condensate pan it is thawed out. However, just because water is draining does not mean all the ice has been melted out of the drain. So leave it off as long as you can for a max of 24 hours. IF you need any further assistance please ask.

HI. Sorry to hear that the bolt is stripped for the agitator. I have no good answer as to how to get that bolt out. Given the placement of that bolt down in the agitator, I can not think of any easy way to get it out with out breaking the agitator.

Hi. I have seen this issue with the model before. Each time I came across this issue it was the High Voltage board that was the issue. Its located at the back of the refrigerator. I have attached a link for the part. If you need any further assistance please let me know.