All Answers

Hi. With the noise your getting in the freezer, it sounds like you have an issue with the evaporator fan motor. The fan bearing could be bad and you would need to replace the fan. Also, you could have some ice build up near the fan blades and when the fan runs it causes your noise. IF the fan is not running properly is will cause temps in both the freezer and refrigerator to get warm. You need to gain access to the fan motor and see what is happening. If you need any further assistance please let me know. I have attached a video for a similar fan motor and refrigerator as well as a link for your evaporator fan motor if you need to purchase one.

Hi. The right part on the blower housing is a thermistor. This does act like a cycling thermostat. Just a basic continuity test will not work on this part. Your meter needs to be set to kilo ohms setting. This thermistor will test at about 10,000 ohms at room temperature. It does not sound like your thermistor has gone bad. I recommend replacing only the element and then test unit. If you need any further assistance please ask.

It does sound like you may be on the right track with the broken belt switch. That particular Kenmore was produced by Whirlpool. Under that manufacture an “8E” Error indicates a failure in the motor relay circuit which would include that belt switch. As a rule of thumb you should be able to hear that switch “Click” while being engaged. You should be able to a simple continuity test across the switch too. Good luck on the repair!

Hi. I am very familiar with this symptom. This is an issue with the pressure switch, which is an automatic water level sensing switch on this unit. The first thing to try is to open the control panel after unplugging the unit, then unplug the wire harness of the switch. Wait a few seconds and plug the harness back in, close the console up and try starting a cycle . This will have reset the switch and will a lot of times fix the issue. IF you still have issues you will need to replace the switch. I have attached a link for the switch. IF you need any further help please ask.

Hi. It very well could be something that has gotten between the tub and basket. Coins and things left in pockets are common to get between them and work there way into the drain pump. Its possible you have a rear bearing going out. This would be more of a whining noise that gets louder as the basket spins faster. I would clean the drain pump filter out. While your at the drain pump you can take the tub to drain pump hose off and see if you can see or feel anything through this opening. Unfortunately there is no easy was to gain access to the space between the tub and basket. You can also try to shine a flash line in the basket as you manually spin it. You may be able to see inside. IF you need any further assistance just let me know.

It very well could be the idler pulley. The belt itself will be easy enough to check when you get the cover off. I’ve attached a link to a similar repair and the part number for the idler pulley (8547174). Feel free to take a look and see what you find, and get back to us with specifics.

on that note when you replaced the main control did you put the machine though a callibration cycle, that is a big thing to do when replacing parts on this machine you may find and replace parts that are the issue but never calibrated it so it still will not work properly., these have a online control that you can manually put the machine into diagnostics , if you pull the top up so you can see the inside of the washer on the instide of the front panel there is a tech sheet thsi will help you through these test , know look for error codes , and the book with telll you what to do step by step , i wann guess you maybe have a bad shifter motor or optics, these codes will help you detemine what to look for,, it will tell you first how to put insto diia, then what to do for each test and check, let me know if you need more!

Gas coils could definitely be your problem. You do want to first check all of your venting to make sure there are no restrictions. Also check your outdoor vend hood, is the air flow being blocked? Is there a lint build? Has a critter has moved in and blocked the flow? Start there before buying parts, especially if it does seem random or does not happen consistently.

remove bottom kick plate remove electrical cover shut off power to unit check wire nuts for loose connection if connections are good and tight replace main board located between door panels if problem persists after replacement of main board may need wire harness that is a little more involved of a job hope that helps you out

start by removing bottom rack then remove bottom spray arm by pulling straight up vigorously under that there is aplastic lever that will turn in one direction half a turn and pull up then filter screns can be removed at this point you will need a shop vac and a torx driver either t20 or t15 remove screws that hold center post in exstract water completely then move drain impeller by hand with you finger if somthing is still stuck in the impellar keep shop vac on and turn impellar shop vac should be able to remove obstruction check impellar for broken paddles if all checks ok reassemble and use if paddles broken replace drain pump

anything can be fixed the cost is the dtermining factor on the vent cover either top or front you will find two screws that secure cover to unit remove them and cover 1 screw top of touch pad housing then push upon housing and pull outward you should be anble to see fan motor this is the cooling motor for control and mag tube put a cup of cold water in microwave set 1 minute and start you should be able to see the fan blade and if it is strikeing anything if the fan blade is warped or out of position it can case other componants to overheat and go bad or the mag tube thermal to open if the microwave cooling fan needs to be replaced it should be removed from the wall taken apart and replaced the hv capacitor should be located and discharged prior to trying to remove fan motor to avoid electrical shock hope this helps

sound like you have multiple issues lets start with ice dispensor remove ice contaainer from unit close door and press ice lever if auger motor runs without stopping you will need to disassemble ice container when you remove the front cover of the container you should see a clip that holds the cutting blades together you may need to rebuild the front of the ice container this is like a 3d jigsaw puzzle.,next onto water dispensor you need to check that the lever is not broken a simple checkis to put your ear against the side of the refrigerator push lever listen for an electrical hum or buzzing sound this is the valve at rear of unit if you hear this and get no water you may have a frozen water tank in refrig.section at bottom of freezer door behind vent grill is a wate connection tha can be undone lay hose from under unit into a shallow container press lever if water comes out line in door is frozen if not tank may be frozen you can remove hose it will be the thicker of the two from the valve itself press lever and see if water comes out of valve if it does tank is frozen clean codensor thaw tank reconnect any disconnected lines and retest through the door hope this helps hou out

in between your clutch and housing just above gearecase is your basket drive there is a plastic piece that looks like an eagles beak the clutch makes contact with that piece to release the brake to spin if broken will need new basket drive if not broken you will need to remove your agitator and inspect the drive block for damage it is bell shaped is split on one side and has two notches on the inside that the basket drive spin tube fit into to replacev it you will need to remove the spanner nut and the wash basket

Hi Laurie,

This video I’m linking below is for a Whirlpool but should be very similar. I’m also attaching the part link in case you haven’t purchased it yet. Belt is 8562613. Feel free to ask more specific questions once he gets started or if he needs any further help.

There’s a couple things that immediately come to mind. First is the possibility of a door latch issue. With it either being broken or failing. Also maybe the touch pad is not responding. I’ll post a video below for you to take a look at and hopefully it’ll get you started in the right direction. I’ll attach the part link for the latch (W10130694) as well because it’s a common problem that is often overlooked. Feel free to come back for more help as you proceed!

If you cleared the ice and made sure the drain was clear down to the drain pan you should be ok. No real way of telling when or even if it would clog again.