All Answers

I would start next by testing to see if you have water going to the inlet valve at the rear of the machine, remove water line and test for flow need to find the water supply shut off first and i always like to kinda crack it loose and see if water begins to come out fast before shutting water off maybe hold if over a towel or bucket , i have seen aot of time its the shut off valve get plugged up and when you shut them off they will then smash that and when you open it back up they will have a water flow so check to see if you have water pressure to the valve first then i would check for voltage at inlet vavle of 110v when pressing lever have some one help you.

Linda, you may have a defective user interface board that controls the unit from starting. Click below for the link to the board its #3 on the parts list. Since the board is not cheap, you may want a company to diagnose it before purchasing the part.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J11Thy0vW0Y Not our video, but walks him through diagnostic.

Most of the front load L-G’s have a “motor” in the rear of the tub. This motor is comprised of two parts, a stator and a rotor and they work together in kind of a magnetic drive system. On some of the older models we do find where the rotor has had some rust build up on the interior. This is going to prevent the stator and rotor from working together to spin the drum and may also produce a strange noise when trying to spin. You may also have an issue with the rear bearing. Typically a grinding sound from the rear of the machine is a generic indicator that there may be an issue with that. Unfortunately there are several computerized parts that do work in series with the mechanical parts too that may be failing, or causing the mechanical parts to fail. Do you have a model number off the unit? We can try and help you locate your specific user’s manual for that machine. It may have in it how to specifically put your machine into a diagnostic mode and that will help lead you in a better direction. Matt Ace technician

Victor,

It sounds like you’re on the right track, I did a quick index search of our videos and found the closest I could to what you’d need. There’s some great instructions in there for testing some other components in there as well. It’ll be linked below along with the heater part number (WR49X391) that matches your model. Good luck with the repair and let us know how it goes or if you need any further assistance!

HI. If you provide me with your model number i will be able to assist you better. You could have a partially clogged drain hose, a check valve that is sticking, or bad drain pump that would cause this issue.

HI. You could have a bad inlet valve or a frozen or clogged water tank. Your water tank should be located behind your crisper drawers in the refrigerator. One test you can do is to take the water line off of inlet valve that goes to your dispenser. The call for water and see what kind of pressure is coming out of the valve. If still little to no water at this point you would need to replace the inlet valve since you checked your incoming water pressure and it was good. If your pressure is good coming out of the valve, then you have a clog or frozen line or dispenser. I have attached a video that shows a water inlet valve on a similar model and a link to purchase a inlet valve.

Most Samsung refrigerators can be put through a self diagnostic by holding down the “power cool” button and the “power freeze” button on the display for 8 seconds, if the diagnostics works these will be some of your read outs:

Display reads “1” Suggests problem with the ice maker sensor
Display reads “2” Suggests problem with the refrigerator sensor
Display reads “3” Suggests problem with the refrigerator defrost sensor
Display reads “4” Suggests problem with the refrigerator fan
Display reads “5” Suggests problem with the ice maker functions
Display reads “6” Suggests problem with the Cool Zone senor
Display reads “7” Suggests problem with refrigerator defrost system
Display reads “8” Suggests problem with the exit sensor
Display reads “9” Suggests problem with the freezer sensor
Display reads “10” Suggests problem with freezer defrost system
Display reads “11” Suggests problem with the freezer fan
Display reads “12” Suggests problem with the condenser fan motor
Display reads “13” Suggests problem with the freezer defrost system

None of those? Possible problem with the board itself and or the thermistor sending the information to the board.

There are a lot of challenges with these refrigerators, good luck and let us know how it goes.

Leroy, Its sounds like your magnetron or inverter board may have gone out. Very common problem. You need to determine how old this unit is and how much a new unit costs. I would put the magnetron & inverter on at the same time or purchase a new unit if its older than 10 years. Below is a parts breakdown and an 1-800-830-5465 phnone number you can call to drop ship the parts. Thanks Matt Ace technician

Ken, I would like you to remove the evaporator cover plate. Both evaporators should have an even frost pattern from top to bottom. If the unit has the evaporator & condenser motors running along with the compressor you should have an even frost pattern on the evaporator assembly. The evaporator coil temperature should be at -20 degrees Fahrenheit across the whole evaporator coil. This can be checked with a thermometer or a infrared temperature laser . If you do not have an even frost pattern on the coil and its only partially frosted you will get above normal temperatures like you are describing in your question. If you have a partial frost pattern you could have three possible problems and I will list them by the most common :
1) A low refrigerant charge due to a leak in the system 70% chance.
2) A bad suction valve in your compressor meaning defective compressor 25% Chance
3) A restriction in the refrigerant system normally in the capillary tube. This is due to oil from the compressor migrating into the capillary tube and restricting refrigerant flow.

Thanks Matt Ace technician

Christina, We have added the element 137114000 on to our list of videos . We will add this on as a priority and should have something in the next 30 days. Thanks Matt Ace Technician

Katie, Here is what I suggest. You most likely still have ice in the drain assembly. If you want to rectify this issue permanently, I suggest you take your food out overnight and put a fan in the freezer to completely defrost all ice from the drain. Then pour hot water down the freezer drain to make sure its completely open.

Bill, the only way to test is by wiring in a relay hard start kit . This is what we use to test compressors. Click on link below in red. It is under $20.00 and you can leave it on as a permanent replacement. It can be installed in minutes and comes with detailed easy instructions. So if you want to test your compressor I suggest you try this. If your compressor is locked up you have spent $20.00. If it works you have saved yourself allot of money. In my experience I find 70% relay overload bad and 30% bad compressor. So your choice good luck on what ever you decide to do. Matt Ace Technician

HI. This is a common issue on these units. The bake igniter will expand and move away from the burn tube over time. This causes the oven to not ignite once the gas comes out. Also if the igniter wire is damaged or terminals are corroded it will cause this issue as well. I would inspect the wire and if it checks out good you can carefully bend the igniter assembly closer to the burner assembly being careful not to break it. Please let me know if you need further assistance.

Hi. Sounds like you have a defrost issue. With the warm temps. and frost on the back panel, it seems like the unit is not defrosting. Leave the unit off for 24 hrs. with the doors open. This will be long enough to thaw it out. Plug back in and if the unit starts cooling properly and temps return to normal, we have confirmed it is a defrost issue. Next we will need to test some components to see which part of the defrost system has failed. Please let me know if you need any further help.

Hi. It sounds like you still have a defrost issue. Usually it takes about a week for enough frost to build up before you notice an issue. Are you getting frost build up on the evaporator cover in the freezer? Are you getting air flow to the refrigerator? Is the unit not running at all? With some more information I can better assist you. What was the original symptoms that led you to replace the control and defrost term.?

Hi. I was unable to look up your model number. Please check your model number. It should be located on the washer after you open the door. You washer has a water level switch that detects the water level in the washer through an air pressure hose. The washer may also have a flow meter and detects how much water is entering the unit. The control board then interprets this info from theses parts. Any of these parts could be faulty. I will be able to look up more info with the model number.

HI. Yes, it sounds like you have a T-stat that is sticking and needs to be replaced. I have attached a link to purchase the part. If you have any further questions, please ask.

Hi. Make sure the condenser coils are not dirty and the condenser fan motor is running. Usually with a defrost issue you will have think frost build up across the entire evaporator. When you replaced the defrost heaters did you manually defrost the evaporator? The evaporator needs to be manually defrosted because the defrost cycle is not long enough to remove the build up that has accumulated. This may be causing your ice build up at the bottom of the evaporator. If you originally found ice build up and its only near the bottom of the evaporator, I would suspect a sealed system failure. There could be a restriction in the system, a faulty compressor, or a leak. If you need any further assistance please let me know.

Hi. Is the washer getting proper power to it? Is there power at the outlet its plugged into? Should be 120 v. If so, I would check for incoming power at the main control board. This is where the power first enters into the unit at. Are you getting an lights or sounds from the control panel or display? Let me know if you need any further assistance.