All Answers

Hi. How was the frost pattern on the evaporator? The whole evaporator should have had an even thin layer of frost. If it was not frosted up across the whole evaporator or you found a “ball” of ice at the top of the evaporator and no frost on the rest, its likely that you are low on charge. The system has a refrigerant leak. Amp draw of the compressor should be about 1 Amp. Lower than .7 Amps would be a sign of the system being low on refrigerant as well. If its heavily frosted up and with the evaporator panel in place and the freezer door closed you are not getting any air flow to the refrigerator section, this would be a defrost issue. If you need any further assistance, please let me know.

Hi. The outside wall of the refrigerator cabinet is suppose to get warm. This is due to the anti-condensation pipe, which pumps hot refrigerant to prevent sweating on the outer cabinet. There could be an issue with the sealed system not allowing this to warm up as needed or the insulation in the side wall may be compromised. I have also seen the anti- condensation pipe installed too far back into the insulation to where it can not warm the cabinet up as it should causing condensation. I would contact the manufacturer of the unit to see if they are aware of this issue with there units and to see if they have a fix for it. IF you need any further assistance please let me know.

Hi. This is common on this washer. This particular unit is very easily thrown off balance. The clothes need to be distributed evenly and the load can not be too large or too small or the tub will start to bang against the cabinet in the spin cycle. Try running the washer in a drain and spin cycle with out any clothes in it. It should work just fine. There could be an issue with the suspension, but more often then not its just off balance. I have attached a video that shows this exact issue on this washer. IF you need any further help please ask.

Hi. IF you do not feel comfortable performing these tests I would not proceed. You could damage the ice maker if you do not install the jumper into the correct terminals. There is also a possibility for electrical shock. Yes, you will need to remove the L shaped terminal and leave it off. Then install your jumper wire into the T and H terminals or holes. The ice maker can be on or off. The jumper should cycle the ice maker even in the off position. You may have to close the doors or hold in the door switches. Remove the jumper wire after 10 seconds. Let me know what you find out if you decide to perform the test. IF you have any questions just let me know.

Rodney, no there is no kit but you can order any part you need at our parts department just call 1-800-830-5465 . Click on the link below for a parts list breakdown…Matt Ace technician

Edward, Call Cool Blue World at 1-888-936-7872

Terry, Click on the two video links below for Whirlpool loud in spin videos. Matt Ace technician

Hi. Sounds like you have a loose connection somewhere. When you moved the unit power came back on. I would start with the power cord at the outlet. Wiggle the cord, to see if the connection is loose. See if power comes back on to the washer. Open the control panel and inspect the wiring. See where your loosing your voltage at. Here is a video that will show you how to take apart this washer to gain access to the control. IF you need any further assistance please let me know.

Hi. Sorry you having trouble with entering the diagnostic mode. The other thing we can do is use a jumper wire to manually cycle the ice maker. To do this, turn power off to the unit, gain access to the ice maker, and removed the cover off the head of the ice maker. Using an insulated wire with the ends stripped back , place one end into the T terminal or hole and the other end into the H terminal or hole. Turn power back on. You may have to hold the door switches closed for the ice maker to cycle. After about 10 seconds of the ice maker running you will hear a click from the ice maker. At this point remove the wire. If you remove it too soon the ice maker will stop running. If it stays running after you remove the wire you did it correctly. The ice maker will run through a full cycle and should fill with water at the end. Near the end listen closely for the inlet valve to turn on. If its working you will hear the valve turn on when its time to fill with water. Let me know the results.

Rob
If you have water to the dispenser and no water to the ice maker you have a bad dual water valve. One side feeds the water dispenser and the other side feeds the ice maker.

Justin
Yes we spliced the wire in on each side. If you replaced the defrost heater and thermostat. I recommend you shut off the refrigerator for 24 hours and put a fan in the freezer and let the unit completely dry out. You may have saturated Styrofoam. After 24 hours pour hot water down the drain and that should correct your issue. Thanks Matt Ace technician

Hi. This issue could be caused by a faulty door switch or control board. The model number should be located inside the unit on the wall or on the frame when the door is opened.

Hi. I would start by calibrating the oven. To do this follow these steps.

PROBLEM: Bake Temperature Needs
Adjustment
1. Press BAKE pad for 5 seconds. The default temp. 0°
or a previously entered offset temp. will show in the
Temp. Display.
■ Press the TEMP pad “up” arrow ( ) to increase
the temperature in 5° or 3°C increments.
■ Press the TEMP pad “down” arrow ( ) to decrease
the temperature in 5°F or 3°C increments.
Max. offset temperature adjustment is ±35°F or ±21°C.
2. Press the START pad to save the temp. adjustment.

As you can see you can only go plus of minus 35 deg. If this does not take care of the issue, you could have an issue with the temp. sensor or control board. The temp sensor should read about 1100 K ohms at room temp. Also check to see that no debris are on the temp sensor and that it is mounted properly in the oven. If you need any further assistance please let me know.

This sounds like your ignitor not functioning correctly. The part number for your model is 5303935066 and I’ll add the link below as well as a repair video to help. Check your temperatures again after installing and you should be good to go. Let us know if we can do anything else!

Garold, Sears Coldspot is a Whirlpool product. Your next step is to take off the back cover in the freezer section to see if you have an even frost pattern. If you are getting 39 degrees in the freezer your compressor is running . You need to see if you have a heavy frost across the coil evenly of just a small amount of frost half way or just partially on the coil. Check this out and email us back to proceed forward Matt Ace technician.

Hi. Here is the steps as listed in the tech sheet on the unit to enter diagnostics mode on your refrigerator. Let me know if you need any further help.

Service Test Mode:
The service test functions are performed using the refrigerator display and keypad. Enter the Service Test Mode by performing the following sequence
of events:
1. Press and hold the Door Alarm Keypad.
2. Press and hold Refrigerator Temperature UP / + Keypad.
3. Release the Door Alarm Keypad and wait 3 seconds.
4. The Freezer display will display SE confirming entry in the Service Mode.
5. Press the Refrigerator Temperature UP /+ Keypad again to confirm entry in the Service Mode.
6. Display will show 101 in left display and numeric or dashes in right display.
7. Press Freezer Refrigerator Temperature UP / + Keypad and Freezer DOWN /- Keypad to toggle through Service Test numbers.
8. To exit service test mode, open and close refrigerator door or hold door alarm for 3 seconds.