All Answers

Hi. Low heat can be caused by a few different things. I would not suspect the heat element. They usually stop heating all together when they go bad. You could have poor air flow causing the heat to short cycle. Check and clean out your vent if needed. Take the vent off the back of the dryer and make sure you have good air flow coming out of the dryer. How did you find out the heat is low? Is it taking longer than usual for the clothes to dry? Are you getting any error codes?

First check for power to the dishwasher if have no lights on the control panel. If you have proper power to the unit, the next thing to check would be the bi-metal fuse for continuity. If not continuity the fuse is bad and needs to be replace. I can help you further with some more information. I hope this has been helpful.

Hi. To winterize your dishwasher get as much of the water out of the dishwasher as possible. Take the drain hose off and get as much water out of it as possible. Add about 1/3 gallon of non toxic antifreeze into the bottom of the dishwasher. Start a cycle with the water turned off to the dishwasher. Let it run for 5-10 mins on any cycle to circulate the antifreeze. Also, like you have stated already, turn the water off to the dishwasher a flush the water from the supply line. Unplug the dishwasher. I hope this was helpful.

Hi. A jumper wire is an insulated wire with the wire stripped back about a half inch at the ends. The wire only needs to be about 6 inches long. Any gauge wire will work as long as it will fit into the holes on the ice maker.

If you are a Marcone MSA member you can get all Premium videos free until the end of the year. Here is the link for your free trial. https://www.appliancevideo.com/msa-member-trial/ Let us know if you need any other help after looking throgh the videos. Thanks Matt Ace Appliance technician

Pat, we will need the model number and make of the unit. Also any details leading up to the problem. Thanks

Great suggestions from Brian, thank you! 

This model does have an additional dispenser board that sometimes trips up even the most experienced technician, they call it a “fountain switch”. This board works in series with the main dispenser board and could potentially be the root of your problem. As Brian stated though start with your basics, make sure you do have water to the door and good electrical connections all the way throughout. If there was some rough road during transportation you may simply have had one of the internal harnesses come loose that may need reconnecting. Good Luck!

Hi. Your issue could be with the Refrigerator thermistor or even the control board. There should be 2 thermistors inside your Refrigerator section. One senses the Temp. of the refrigerator and the other thermistor on the evaporator is for the defrost cycle. In the service manual, in the trouble shooting section will explain how to test the thermistor. The first thing I would do is unplug the unit for 5 mins. to reset the board and plug back in. See if the display is correct with the actual temps. Hers is a link to purchase the thermistor.

Hi. Yes, if you have a faulty defrost component causing the unit to not defrost then replacing that part will solve your issue. You will need to test the different components of the defrost system to see what part is faulty. Or, replace the whole defrost system since they sell it all together for you unit. It comes with the evaporator, but you will not need to replace the evaporator. By testing and finding the faulty part will give you piece of mind that there is a part broken and that this frost issue is in fact a defrost issue and not something else like warm air getting into the unit causing condensation build up. Please call (800) 816-0715 for parts ordering.

Hi. The drain grommet has been revised to a drain tube. You will just need to take off the grommet and replace it with the new drain tube. Instructions are included in the drain tube kit. I have attached a link to purchase the part. Ice is built up in the drain pan under the evaporator in side the freezer section. You will need to clear this ice out and flush hot water down the drain so that the water can drain out. If you just cleared the grommet this will not fix the issue. Another option is to leave the unit unplugged for 24 hrs to melt the ice so you do not have to get into the freezer the clear the ice manually. Repair video is attached as well in case you have not seen this one.

Lee, I will be happy to help you.

I’m looking for just a little more information to assist you better. When you say you hear “clicking” is it coming from the lid lock area? As if the lid lock won’t lock properly? Or do you hear it coming from under the machine, possibly where the actuator is located?

If you think that it’s coming from the area of the actuator I would unplug the unit, tip the unit back and remove the actuator (2 green screws). Then I would manually move the cam arm back and forth to see if the cam engages and disengages freely. If this moves freely I would probably replace the actuator assembly.

As far as your leak goes, that could be a number of possibilities.

I would love to provide you with more precise information, I just need more information from you in order to do so.

I look forward to your reply

Sean

Marino, I’m sorry you’re having this problem. See video links on Maytag washer made by Whirlpool ..https://www.appliancevideo.com/appliances/00-mhw6000x/
For that unit a F1 E2 error code is a motor control fault. To get to the bottom of this according to the manufacturer there are a few things you have to check.

1. Check the motor and electrical connections by performing a Gentle or Heavy Agitation test under the Manual Test Mode (access the test mode again by turning the main control knob in the same fashion you did before L, R, R, R, L, R – then turn until SPIN and DONE or 03 are illuminated depending on model). Once in the Manual Test Mode press the start button when there are no lights illuminated or the display reads 00 – this will lock the lid. Next rotate the knob clockwise until Wash, Spin, Done and Lid Lock or 11 is illuminated and press start. This is the gentle agitation mode and the unit should start to agitate shortly. According to the manufacturer if the unit agitates in this mode you may be getting a false error code. If the unit does not agitate properly we can proceed. (Remember while still in the test mode to rotate the knob clockwise until there are no lights illuminated or 00 is present and press start again to unlock the lid).

2.Unplug the washer.

1. Open the lid and see if the basket will spin freely. If it spins freely go to step 4. If the basket does not spin freely you will need to determine if there is something binding up the basket. If there is nothing blocking the basket (typically clothing between/under tubs) I have found that corrosion on the drive shaft assembly could be causing a higher than normal resistance and making the computer see an error for a higher than normal amp draw.

2. Remove the console and access the main control.

3. Visually check that the J2 and J16 connections are fully inserted into the main control. If they are go to step 6, if they aren’t, plug them in and repeat step 1 again.

4. Plug washer back in. Run the Gentle Agitation test under the Manual Test Mode again.

5. With a voltmeter set to AC, connect the black probe to J16-5 (N) and the red probe to J16-6 (CW Winding).
   If 120VAC is cycling ON during CW rotation go to step 8.
   If 120VAC is not present we need to check the main control (which I will cover how to do so at the end)

6. With your voltmeter set to AC,connect the black probe to J16-5 (N) and red probe to J16-7 (CCW Winding)
   If 120VAC is cycling ON during CCW rotation go to step 9.
   If 120VAC is not present we need to check the main control (which I will cover at the end of the motor diagnosis).

7. Unplug washer

8. Remove J16 connector from the main control. With an ohmmeter check the resistance of motor windings – all resistance should be between 3.5 & 6 Ohms. Check between opins J16-6 & J16-5 AND J16-7 & J16-5.
   If values are open or out of range go to Step 11.
   If values are correct go to step 15.

9. Tilt washer bacl to access the drive system.

10. Visually check the mounting bracket and electrical connections to the motor and shifter.
    If visual check passes go to step 13
    If connections are loose, reconnect and repeat step 1.

11. With an ohmmeter check the motor wiring harness for continuity between the main control, motor and capacitor.
    Motor connector pin 1 to chassis ground
    motor connector pin 3 to main control J16-7
    motor connector pin 3 to run capacitor pin 3
    motor connector pin 6 to main control J16-6
    motor connector pin 6 to run capacitor pin 1
    motor connector pin 9 to main control J16-5
    If there is continuity go to step 14
    If there is no continuity on any test you must replace the harness and then run step 1 again

12. With an ohmmeter check the motor windings at the motor itself with the harness unplugged
    Pin 6 & 9
    Pin 3 & 9
    reading should be between 3.5 & 6 ohms
    If values are open or out of range replace the motor
    If the values are correct go to step 15

13. Test the motor run capacitor
    Discharge the capacitor by touching the leads of a 20,000 ohm resistor to the two terminals
    Disconnect wires from the capacitor
    With an ohmmeter, measure across the terminals
    If there is a steady increase continue to step 16
    If the capacitor is open or shorted, replace the capacitor, calibrate the washer and repeat step 1

14. If the following steps did not fix the problem the manufacturer says that you need to replace the main control, calibrate washer and then run an Automatic test to verify operation

TESTING THE MAIN CONTROL

1.Unplug the washer

1. Remove console to access the main control

   1. Verify that all connectors are inserted properly

2. Plug washer back in

3. With a voltmeter set to AC, connect black probe to J7-3 (N) and red probe to J7-1 (L1)
   If 120VAC is present go to step 6
   If 120VAC is not present check the outlet for proper voltage and 120 VAC at power cord connection within console.

4. Is the light on the main control illuminated?
   Light ON = +5VDC present go to step 7
   Light OFF = +5VDC missing go to step 8

5. With a voltmeter set to DC, connect black probe to J9-3 (Ground) and red probe to J9-8 (+13VDC)
   If +13VDC is present control is working properly
   If +13VDC is not present go to Step 8

6. Check to see if shifter is affecting voltage
   Unplug washer
   Remove connector J2 from main control
   Plug in washer
   Recheck DC voltage from step 6 & 7 go to step 9
   If DC voltage returns, look for a short in harness between shifter and main control. if harness and connections look good replace the shifter assembly and plug J2 connection back in

7. Check to see if user interface is affecting voltage
   Unplug washer
   Remove connector J9 from main control
   Plug washer in
   Recheck DC voltages from step 6 & 7 – perform voltage checks inside header J9 on the board – BE SURE TO NOT SHORT PINS TOGETHER
   If one or more voltage checks are missing go to step 10
   IF the DC voltages return check the harness from user interface to main control for short/continuity – if all checks ok replace user interface

8. Main Control is damaged – replace main control, calibrate washer and run an automatic test cycle

Marino, I hope this helps. If you have any further questions and/or information I will do my best to guide you in the right direction

Sean

First, lets try unplugging the washer to reset the control board. Leave unit unplugged for 5 mins. Then follow these steps to find out what error code you have. If your unit is still not displaying the full error code and This issue with the display occurred at the same time as the washer not starting I would suspect the main control board. Here is a link for your control board and a video for the diagnostic mode on your washer.

WAKE THE WASHER BY PRESSING ANY BUTTON.

WAIT 5 SECONDS.

PRESS AND HOLD THE START AND PAUSE/CANCEL BUTTONS SIMULTANEOUSLY.

ALL LED’S WILL GO BLANK AND AFTER A FEW SECONDS THE CONTROL WILL SIGNAL THE STORED CODE USING AUDIBLE BEEPS
AND BLINKING LED’S. THE CONTROL WILL REPEATEDLY SIGNAL THE CODE, AS LONG AS THE START AND PAUSE/CANCEL BUTTONS ARE PRESSED.

A TWO-SECOND PAUSE BETWEEN REPEATS AFFORDS YOU THE ABILITY TO MAKE ACCURATE COUNTS TO IDENTIFY THE CORRECT ERROR CODES.

PLEASE NOTE THE FOLLOWING: ON A SMALL NUMBER OF WASHERS WITH SERIAL NUMBER PREFIX XC4, IF THE PREVIOUS PROCEDURE DOES NOT PREFORM AS SPECIFIED, FOLLOW THE OPTION BELOW:

• FOLLOW ALL PREVIOUS STEPS BUT INSTEAD OF PRESSING START AND PAUSE/CANCEL BUTTONS, PRESS AND HOLD OPTIONS AND PAUSE/CANCEL BUTTONS.”

*THE CONTROL WILL PAUSE FOR 2 SECONDS, THEN REPEAT THE CODE AS LONG AS THE TWO BUTTONS ARE PRESSED AND HELD.”

NOTE: A LETTER APPEARING IN THE CODE STANDS FOR A NUMBER HIGHER THAN NINE: A=10 B=11 C=12 D=13 E=14 F=15 “

“EXAMPLE CODE F1: THE FIRST DIGIT WOULD BE 15 AND THE SECOND WOULD BE 1. IF THIS CODE WOULD APPEAR ON A WASHER IN THE GOOD MODEL LINE, THE FIVE INDICATOR LIGHTS WOULD BLINK FIFTEEN TIMES AND THE START INDICATOR LIGHT WOULD BLINK ONCE

If this was something you found in the drain grommet, then no, you do not need to put it back. I’m not sure which video you watched, but there is a revision to this drain grommet. It has been replaced with a train tube. I have attached a video for the new drain tube and a link to purchase the part. You will also be able to verify from the video that the piece you removed does not need put back in.