What I really would like is a trouble shooting chart/flow chart to trouble shooting all problems. I’m a apartment maintenance man with about 70 of these stackable w/d and never worked on a w/d with a control board ( im old school) any advise would help, thanks
- Guest answered 12 years ago
Here’s the video I was thinking of, it’s similar to what you need, but not the exact same part #. Good luck!
- AV Repair Help answered 12 years ago
Hi Harold,
Although I’m not a technician, I can tell you that typically we see a lot of the errors you mentioned resulting in a bad pressure switch. I’ll list the replacement part link for you below that matches your model number (part # W10415587). Unfortunately I did not come across any videos either but will keep looking and get back to you asap. Hope this helps!
- AV Repair Help answered 12 years ago
Thanks Brian from your answer… I will put it back together again in the morning… and see if is the same. I cleaned the inside of the unit: motor, exhaust for lint, and of course the heating element box… all areas were filthy. Large quantities of lint were found in those 3 areas and the bottom of the unit. The exhaust for the lint seemed about 2/3 blocked. The problem emerged when it was taking longer than usual to dry the clothes (and they were still not dry.) The inside to the tub only felt slightly warm. I had already gone to bed; but decided to get up to see if anyone had responded. I will look at it again in the morning. If you don’t suspect the heating element then what remaining issues could emerge ? – would a thermostat cause this issue.? I will also look to see if there are any error codes in the display window.
If a good cleaning is all that was needed then that has been done ; but the proof will be in the pudding so to speak. I will let you know…
Thank you for your reply –
Fred @ Lubbock, TX
- Fred answered 12 years ago
Hi. Control boards can be hard to diagnose. What are the symptoms you are having with the unit? Is this with the washer or dryer? With some more information I will be able to further assist you.
- Brian, Ace Appliance answered 12 years ago
Hi. Low heat can be caused by a few different things. I would not suspect the heat element. They usually stop heating all together when they go bad. You could have poor air flow causing the heat to short cycle. Check and clean out your vent if needed. Take the vent off the back of the dryer and make sure you have good air flow coming out of the dryer. How did you find out the heat is low? Is it taking longer than usual for the clothes to dry? Are you getting any error codes?
- Brian, Ace Appliance answered 12 years ago
Hi. Here is a video that will help you with diagnosing the problem. If you used an Allen wrench to free the disposal to where the disposal spins freely with the Allen wrench and the disposal is still humming when you turn it on, you will need a new disposal as long as your power going to the disposal is good. I hope this is helpful to you.
- Brian, Ace Appliance answered 12 years ago
First check for power to the dishwasher if have no lights on the control panel. If you have proper power to the unit, the next thing to check would be the bi-metal fuse for continuity. If not continuity the fuse is bad and needs to be replace. I can help you further with some more information. I hope this has been helpful.
- Brian, Ace Appliance answered 12 years ago
Hi. To winterize your dishwasher get as much of the water out of the dishwasher as possible. Take the drain hose off and get as much water out of it as possible. Add about 1/3 gallon of non toxic antifreeze into the bottom of the dishwasher. Start a cycle with the water turned off to the dishwasher. Let it run for 5-10 mins on any cycle to circulate the antifreeze. Also, like you have stated already, turn the water off to the dishwasher a flush the water from the supply line. Unplug the dishwasher. I hope this was helpful.
- Brian, Ace Appliance answered 12 years ago
Hi. A jumper wire is an insulated wire with the wire stripped back about a half inch at the ends. The wire only needs to be about 6 inches long. Any gauge wire will work as long as it will fit into the holes on the ice maker.
- Brian, Ace Appliance answered 12 years ago
If you are a Marcone MSA member you can get all Premium videos free until the end of the year. Here is the link for your free trial. https://www.appliancevideo.com/msa-member-trial/ Let us know if you need any other help after looking throgh the videos. Thanks Matt Ace Appliance technician
- AV Repair Help answered 12 years ago
Pat, we will need the model number and make of the unit. Also any details leading up to the problem. Thanks
- AV Repair Help answered 12 years ago
Thanks for your response. The clicking is coming from underneath the washer. Not sure if it’s actually coming the actuator or not. I removed the actuator and the cam does move freely. I noticed moving the cam one direction and turning the belt that the tub does not spin, but move cam the other direction and turn the belt and the tub will spin. I assume that is normal?
- Lee answered 12 years ago
Great suggestions from Brian, thank you!
This model does have an additional dispenser board that sometimes trips up even the most experienced technician, they call it a “fountain switch”. This board works in series with the main dispenser board and could potentially be the root of your problem. As Brian stated though start with your basics, make sure you do have water to the door and good electrical connections all the way throughout. If there was some rough road during transportation you may simply have had one of the internal harnesses come loose that may need reconnecting. Good Luck!
- AV Repair Help answered 12 years ago
Hi Brian,
I have unplugged the refrigerator, waited a bit and then plugged it back in several times. Each time after start up, the display has indicated the correct actual temperature of the fridge and freezer (checked against a separate thermometer that I placed in both the fridge and freezer). Would this rule out the control board (and likely one of the thermistors)?
I did put the fridge into “forced operation” mode and tried to force a refrigerator defrost. The fridge beeped for about 90 min (the display said “rd” which I assume means refrigerator defrost) but the drip tray in the back is completely dry. No water in it at all.
I suppose that I should take the inside back wall of the fridge off to expose the evaporator and start getting busy with a heat gun, right?
Thanks,
Ed
- Ed answered 12 years ago
Hi. Your issue could be with the Refrigerator thermistor or even the control board. There should be 2 thermistors inside your Refrigerator section. One senses the Temp. of the refrigerator and the other thermistor on the evaporator is for the defrost cycle. In the service manual, in the trouble shooting section will explain how to test the thermistor. The first thing I would do is unplug the unit for 5 mins. to reset the board and plug back in. See if the display is correct with the actual temps. Hers is a link to purchase the thermistor.
- Brian, Ace Appliance answered 12 years ago
Hi. Yes, if you have a faulty defrost component causing the unit to not defrost then replacing that part will solve your issue. You will need to test the different components of the defrost system to see what part is faulty. Or, replace the whole defrost system since they sell it all together for you unit. It comes with the evaporator, but you will not need to replace the evaporator. By testing and finding the faulty part will give you piece of mind that there is a part broken and that this frost issue is in fact a defrost issue and not something else like warm air getting into the unit causing condensation build up. Please call (800) 816-0715 for parts ordering.
- Brian, Ace Appliance answered 12 years ago
Hi. The drain grommet has been revised to a drain tube. You will just need to take off the grommet and replace it with the new drain tube. Instructions are included in the drain tube kit. I have attached a link to purchase the part. Ice is built up in the drain pan under the evaporator in side the freezer section. You will need to clear this ice out and flush hot water down the drain so that the water can drain out. If you just cleared the grommet this will not fix the issue. Another option is to leave the unit unplugged for 24 hrs to melt the ice so you do not have to get into the freezer the clear the ice manually. Repair video is attached as well in case you have not seen this one.
- Brian, Ace Appliance answered 12 years ago
Lee, I will be happy to help you.
I’m looking for just a little more information to assist you better. When you say you hear “clicking” is it coming from the lid lock area? As if the lid lock won’t lock properly? Or do you hear it coming from under the machine, possibly where the actuator is located?
If you think that it’s coming from the area of the actuator I would unplug the unit, tip the unit back and remove the actuator (2 green screws). Then I would manually move the cam arm back and forth to see if the cam engages and disengages freely. If this moves freely I would probably replace the actuator assembly.
As far as your leak goes, that could be a number of possibilities.
I would love to provide you with more precise information, I just need more information from you in order to do so.
I look forward to your reply
Sean
- Sean, Ace Appliance answered 12 years ago
