All Answers

Marino, I’m sorry you’re having this problem. See video links on Maytag washer made by Whirlpool ..https://www.appliancevideo.com/appliances/00-mhw6000x/
For that unit a F1 E2 error code is a motor control fault. To get to the bottom of this according to the manufacturer there are a few things you have to check.

1. Check the motor and electrical connections by performing a Gentle or Heavy Agitation test under the Manual Test Mode (access the test mode again by turning the main control knob in the same fashion you did before L, R, R, R, L, R – then turn until SPIN and DONE or 03 are illuminated depending on model). Once in the Manual Test Mode press the start button when there are no lights illuminated or the display reads 00 – this will lock the lid. Next rotate the knob clockwise until Wash, Spin, Done and Lid Lock or 11 is illuminated and press start. This is the gentle agitation mode and the unit should start to agitate shortly. According to the manufacturer if the unit agitates in this mode you may be getting a false error code. If the unit does not agitate properly we can proceed. (Remember while still in the test mode to rotate the knob clockwise until there are no lights illuminated or 00 is present and press start again to unlock the lid).

2.Unplug the washer.

1. Open the lid and see if the basket will spin freely. If it spins freely go to step 4. If the basket does not spin freely you will need to determine if there is something binding up the basket. If there is nothing blocking the basket (typically clothing between/under tubs) I have found that corrosion on the drive shaft assembly could be causing a higher than normal resistance and making the computer see an error for a higher than normal amp draw.

2. Remove the console and access the main control.

3. Visually check that the J2 and J16 connections are fully inserted into the main control. If they are go to step 6, if they aren’t, plug them in and repeat step 1 again.

4. Plug washer back in. Run the Gentle Agitation test under the Manual Test Mode again.

5. With a voltmeter set to AC, connect the black probe to J16-5 (N) and the red probe to J16-6 (CW Winding).
   If 120VAC is cycling ON during CW rotation go to step 8.
   If 120VAC is not present we need to check the main control (which I will cover how to do so at the end)

6. With your voltmeter set to AC,connect the black probe to J16-5 (N) and red probe to J16-7 (CCW Winding)
   If 120VAC is cycling ON during CCW rotation go to step 9.
   If 120VAC is not present we need to check the main control (which I will cover at the end of the motor diagnosis).

7. Unplug washer

8. Remove J16 connector from the main control. With an ohmmeter check the resistance of motor windings – all resistance should be between 3.5 & 6 Ohms. Check between opins J16-6 & J16-5 AND J16-7 & J16-5.
   If values are open or out of range go to Step 11.
   If values are correct go to step 15.

9. Tilt washer bacl to access the drive system.

10. Visually check the mounting bracket and electrical connections to the motor and shifter.
    If visual check passes go to step 13
    If connections are loose, reconnect and repeat step 1.

11. With an ohmmeter check the motor wiring harness for continuity between the main control, motor and capacitor.
    Motor connector pin 1 to chassis ground
    motor connector pin 3 to main control J16-7
    motor connector pin 3 to run capacitor pin 3
    motor connector pin 6 to main control J16-6
    motor connector pin 6 to run capacitor pin 1
    motor connector pin 9 to main control J16-5
    If there is continuity go to step 14
    If there is no continuity on any test you must replace the harness and then run step 1 again

12. With an ohmmeter check the motor windings at the motor itself with the harness unplugged
    Pin 6 & 9
    Pin 3 & 9
    reading should be between 3.5 & 6 ohms
    If values are open or out of range replace the motor
    If the values are correct go to step 15

13. Test the motor run capacitor
    Discharge the capacitor by touching the leads of a 20,000 ohm resistor to the two terminals
    Disconnect wires from the capacitor
    With an ohmmeter, measure across the terminals
    If there is a steady increase continue to step 16
    If the capacitor is open or shorted, replace the capacitor, calibrate the washer and repeat step 1

14. If the following steps did not fix the problem the manufacturer says that you need to replace the main control, calibrate washer and then run an Automatic test to verify operation

TESTING THE MAIN CONTROL

1.Unplug the washer

1. Remove console to access the main control

   1. Verify that all connectors are inserted properly

2. Plug washer back in

3. With a voltmeter set to AC, connect black probe to J7-3 (N) and red probe to J7-1 (L1)
   If 120VAC is present go to step 6
   If 120VAC is not present check the outlet for proper voltage and 120 VAC at power cord connection within console.

4. Is the light on the main control illuminated?
   Light ON = +5VDC present go to step 7
   Light OFF = +5VDC missing go to step 8

5. With a voltmeter set to DC, connect black probe to J9-3 (Ground) and red probe to J9-8 (+13VDC)
   If +13VDC is present control is working properly
   If +13VDC is not present go to Step 8

6. Check to see if shifter is affecting voltage
   Unplug washer
   Remove connector J2 from main control
   Plug in washer
   Recheck DC voltage from step 6 & 7 go to step 9
   If DC voltage returns, look for a short in harness between shifter and main control. if harness and connections look good replace the shifter assembly and plug J2 connection back in

7. Check to see if user interface is affecting voltage
   Unplug washer
   Remove connector J9 from main control
   Plug washer in
   Recheck DC voltages from step 6 & 7 – perform voltage checks inside header J9 on the board – BE SURE TO NOT SHORT PINS TOGETHER
   If one or more voltage checks are missing go to step 10
   IF the DC voltages return check the harness from user interface to main control for short/continuity – if all checks ok replace user interface

8. Main Control is damaged – replace main control, calibrate washer and run an automatic test cycle

Marino, I hope this helps. If you have any further questions and/or information I will do my best to guide you in the right direction

Sean

First, lets try unplugging the washer to reset the control board. Leave unit unplugged for 5 mins. Then follow these steps to find out what error code you have. If your unit is still not displaying the full error code and This issue with the display occurred at the same time as the washer not starting I would suspect the main control board. Here is a link for your control board and a video for the diagnostic mode on your washer.

WAKE THE WASHER BY PRESSING ANY BUTTON.

WAIT 5 SECONDS.

PRESS AND HOLD THE START AND PAUSE/CANCEL BUTTONS SIMULTANEOUSLY.

ALL LED’S WILL GO BLANK AND AFTER A FEW SECONDS THE CONTROL WILL SIGNAL THE STORED CODE USING AUDIBLE BEEPS
AND BLINKING LED’S. THE CONTROL WILL REPEATEDLY SIGNAL THE CODE, AS LONG AS THE START AND PAUSE/CANCEL BUTTONS ARE PRESSED.

A TWO-SECOND PAUSE BETWEEN REPEATS AFFORDS YOU THE ABILITY TO MAKE ACCURATE COUNTS TO IDENTIFY THE CORRECT ERROR CODES.

PLEASE NOTE THE FOLLOWING: ON A SMALL NUMBER OF WASHERS WITH SERIAL NUMBER PREFIX XC4, IF THE PREVIOUS PROCEDURE DOES NOT PREFORM AS SPECIFIED, FOLLOW THE OPTION BELOW:

• FOLLOW ALL PREVIOUS STEPS BUT INSTEAD OF PRESSING START AND PAUSE/CANCEL BUTTONS, PRESS AND HOLD OPTIONS AND PAUSE/CANCEL BUTTONS.”

*THE CONTROL WILL PAUSE FOR 2 SECONDS, THEN REPEAT THE CODE AS LONG AS THE TWO BUTTONS ARE PRESSED AND HELD.”

NOTE: A LETTER APPEARING IN THE CODE STANDS FOR A NUMBER HIGHER THAN NINE: A=10 B=11 C=12 D=13 E=14 F=15 “

“EXAMPLE CODE F1: THE FIRST DIGIT WOULD BE 15 AND THE SECOND WOULD BE 1. IF THIS CODE WOULD APPEAR ON A WASHER IN THE GOOD MODEL LINE, THE FIVE INDICATOR LIGHTS WOULD BLINK FIFTEEN TIMES AND THE START INDICATOR LIGHT WOULD BLINK ONCE

If this was something you found in the drain grommet, then no, you do not need to put it back. I’m not sure which video you watched, but there is a revision to this drain grommet. It has been replaced with a train tube. I have attached a video for the new drain tube and a link to purchase the part. You will also be able to verify from the video that the piece you removed does not need put back in.

Try pressing heat dry- normal – heat dry – normal. This should enter a diagnostic mode and clear and errors that have occurred. TO exit press cancel.

Darrell, click on the video links below on wiring Kenmore dryer thermostats and elements. Hopefully these videos will help. Matt Ace technician

Lynn, there are two fan motors. The evaporator fan motor in the freezer and the condenser fan motor in back to cool down your compressor. Which motor is cycling on and off ?

Parsonsac, Can you please give us more detailes on the problem and make of the unit. Thanks Matt Ace technician

Lynn, there are a few things you need to check for. 1) Can you open up the freezer door and here the evaporator fan motor running ? If you do not look for the switch at the top or bottom of the door and push it in, sometimes this fan switch needs to be pushed in to hear the motor run. If you hear the fan then touch the back wall of the freezer to see if there is a thin layer if frost on it . Please report back these findings to us so we can help you with your problem. Matt Ace technician

Hi. This could be a drain issue. Check inside your freezer, on the freezer floor. Is there ice build up on the freeze floor? If so this is a clogged drain tube. You will need to remove the evaporator cover in the freezer and clear the ice from the drain tube. Then use something, like a turkey baster, to force hot water down the drain until water drains down and out the drain into the drip pan. If there is not ice formed on your freezer floor you will need to investigate to see where this water is coming from such as the water filter housing or water lines on the back of the unit. I have attached videos to repair videos on clogged drain tubes.

Hi. It sounds like you are not getting enough water to the ice maker. All the ice molds should have water in them if you have good water pressure. When an ice maker does not get enough water it will produce small or hollow cubes and those cubes can get stuck in the ice maker rakes causing a “ice jam” to where the ice maker can not rotate to go through a cycle and therefore does not produce any ice. First I would restore water pressure to the unit. The filter is new so I would start by checking the water supply valve to the refrigerator and change if needed. Usually the water supply valve is a saddle valve or “T” valve. Theses valves do not last long before they clog up and reduce the water pressure to the unit. Also, being on a reverse osmosis system can be very problematic for water and ice dispensers in refrigerators. They can drastically reduce the water pressure to the unit. Once water pressure is good, if your still not making ice and temps in the freezer are good I would replace the ice maker. Or if you notice that the arms of the ice maker are getting frozen in the cubes, replace the ice maker. Attached are videos for this ice maker and a link to purchase a new ice maker.

Hi. If you could provide me with the model number of your dishwasher I can further assist you. There are a few different fuses in dishwashers. Are you talking about the Thermal cut off fuse located in the control panel near the control board?

Sorry to hear about the power surge! 🙁

As anyone with any experience in the field will tell you power surges are no fun. Unfortunately power surges typically create multiple problems internally in appliances. You may have a bad compressor on that refrigerator but you may also have bad starting components or a burned out board or sensors. With power surge damage, is very difficult to pin down to just one or two parts that may have been compromised on any appliance. Getting a professional out to the home may be your best choice at this time. You may want to check with your insurance company too, many will reimburse you for the cost of the service call if the unit is deemed damaged from a power surge. I have attached two videos for you one on a compressor test you can try and one on disassembling a dishwasher door to get to the controls. Good Luck!