HI. The first thing I would suspect would be the lid switch. Open the lid all the way and close it and listen for a click. If no click its very possible the lid switch is faulty. The lid has to be closed and the lid switch has to be working for the motor to run for the spin cycle and on a lot of models the wash cycle as well. The lid switch is located under the control panel. I have attached a link for the part. We currently do not have any repair videos on this lid switch.

HI. First make sure that the ice door is closing and is not damaged. If damaged you will need a new separator.The manufacture of your refrigerator has came up with some revisions to your current ice chute separator to correct the issues you are having with the frost build up in the ice door chute and the bottom of the ice maker. Those revisions include Creating clearance between ice door fin and inner ice chute, increase ice door minimum opening clearance and modify ice door gears to improve ice door seal. Remove the User interface by inserting a screw driver in to the two slots
to release the tabs. One on each side of the UI. The UI will pull down and away from door. Disconnect the electrical connection to the UI and set aside. Remove 4, ¼” hex screws. Push inward on two side tabs and pull dispenser
door assembly out. Disconnect the electrical connections and remove wires from plastic clip on dispenser door assembly. Remove a portion of the inner ice chute to give clearance for the fin on the back side of the ice door. Depth of cut should be approximately 5/16”. Do not cut on the outer door seal surface. Now remove the micro switch. Bend the switch arm at a point in line with the edge of the switch. Bend the switch arm to approximately a 30 degree angle and
put switch back in place. The switch should engage now before the door is fully open. Remove the 3 rear teeth from the ice door mechanism one at a time. Smooth the area down where the teeth were removed if needed. Now the ice door with have a snap sound when it closes and will seal better to prevent your frost build up. This will be much easier with pictures. I am working on including/ attaching pictures as well.

I just caught the ice maker discharging one ice cube. So it at least has power. But the arm is stuck in the full position…or I haven’t waited long enough for it to cycle through.

Thank you for your response and the video link, that was quite helpful.
The parts that have been replaced so far are:
Temperature sensor (Fresh Food sensor) #DA32-10109H
Thermal Fuse #DA47-10160H
Heater Assembly #DA47-00322H
Control Main PC #DA41-00396G
Evap Cover #DA97-05255P

So your suggestion would be to replace the Thermistor or a sensor? It seems there are many sensors that are in a refrigerator, so I’m uncertain which one may need to be replaced. Do you happen to know any part numbers or should I contact Samsung (although they’ve never been really helpful on the phone) for that?

Thanks again!
Kendra & Drew

Now it is open thanx…but now..the machine dont work anything…i put the botton start and she do a sound…click clack..and stand stand…and dont do anything…i dont enderstands any more…where is the pressure control exactly…

Thanks Brian, I have seen that video before, and also the one about replacing the evaporator.
Can I convert this system to another refrigerant? The freezer has a new compressor, and shows to be R 401a or R401b compatible. I’m not sure what it really has in it. I’d be interested in converting it to R134 because I can get small cans of it.
Have you heard of remote mounting the compressors and condensor? Running the service lines into the crawl space below the fridge? It would be nice to not have the warm air blowing into the kitchen all the time. Either that or exhausting the warm air into a duct to take it outside of the house
Are these units at all energy efficient?

Thanks

Hi. Open the freezer door and hold in the ice maker optic door. If the the light is steadily on the optics check good. IF they still blink 2 times and then pause and there is nothing blocking the beam you have faulty optics and they need to be replaced. Theses optics only control the ice maker making ice and would not explain the ice and water dispenser not working. I suspect that a connection came disconnected or there is an issue is the dispenser area because you are not getting water or ice. Check the connections at the top of the freezer door under the hinge cover. This is you dispenser harness.

I would make sure the washer is draining properly. If draining properly reset the unit by unplugging for 5 mins and plugging back in. If still not working on medium spin you may have an issue with the control board.

Here is a link that shows how to check the refrigerant charge on a sub zero.

‘Hi Don.
Yes. The service port fittings for your refrigerator should be 1/4″. High and low side fittings will be the same. It does sound like you have a refrigerant leak in the system given the frost pattern you have on your evaporator. A leak this small is going to be hard to trace down. You can try adding refrigerant and using a electronic leak detector. It is very likely that the leak is in the evaporator. I have attached a repair video link that shows a evaporator replacement.

Most refrigerator are set up to install an ice maker. If you provide me with your model number I can check and see for you. Also, look inside your freezer where the ice maker would go. on the back panel you may see a small cover that can be removed. Here you should see a spot for the ice maker fill tube and wire harness. There are also going to be 2 holes in the side wall to put screws to mount the ice maker. If so your refrigerator is set up for an ice maker. With the model number I can look up the ice maker kit you will need.

hi. Its sounds like something on the control board is burning. I would remove the top panel by removing the 3 screws in the back and inspect the board and wiring for any burnt marks and replace it if your find any. The Fuse may also be bad as well. Also, check the terminal block that the power cord attaches to at the dryer.

Here are the pump repair video and part links.

Hi. You definitely need a belt and a drain pump. I have seen this happen many times before on this model washer. If the unit was spinning and agitating properly prior to the drain pump going bad your transmission is fine. You have verified the agitation portion of the transmission works. Turn the pulley CCW. It will be hard at first, then the trust bearing will release the brake and the tub should start spinning. IF this checks out good then your transmission is fine. I have attached links to purchase the belt and drain pump as well as repair videos.

Hi. It sounds like the motor is bad on your washer. It’s possible that there is a loose connection somewhere or the timer is faulty, but its likely the motor bad. Inspect the timer harness and wiring to the motor for any corrosion, broken or loose wires. If wiring check good. I would replace the motor. Attached is a link to purchase the motor.

Thanks for your response. I bought the defrost thermostat and I will be attaching it today. I’ll update on the result.

Thanks very much!!

I have a Jennair side by side frig, my temp control board has stopped working, although it is lit and showing the temp, I can not control it. fans in both frig and freezer is on, temp is at 55 in freeze and 60 in frig, is there a reset button, or is my control panel bad

Gervan, yes the defrost could prevent your compressor from coming on. The defrost timer has compressor run contacts and defrost heater contacts. It could absolutely be the problem. Matt Ace technician

Let me answer some of my own questions.

Blockquote
1) If the transmission pulley is spun CW what should be seen? Should the agitator spin around the 360 degrees? Would the agitator spin “X” degrees and then restart?

2) Could there be something else wrong with the agitator if it spins and doesn’t agitate?

4) Is it possible to just replace the water pump bearing?

Blockquote

1 reply: Per spec the agitator should move a 155 degree arc. After I attached the V-belt to the tranny pulley I could spin the pulley CW by hand and see the agitator move ~150 degree CW and then reverse CCW; ie the agitator is working correctly if my observations are correct.

2 reply: Question#2 is moot since I know the agitator should move a 155 degree arc and it does move 155 degree arc.

4 reply: In my case the pulley bearing looks great. The noise was created by the weird metal fins within the pulley shaft and how they rub against the water pump base plate. I’m assuming this is because the pump plastics guts wore out and this causes play in turn the pulley. This play means the pulley moves more than it should and presto a metal on metal noise is made. Maybe this is like a metal brake pad indicator on cars with disc brakes. Maytag may have saved a few cents, however this plastic (water pump) junk wears out with very little use. Very disappointing.