All Answers

Hi Liliana, If you could provide a more accurate model number, that would be very helpful. It should be in the back right hand corner, under the lid, or behind the main console. ex 110.4536836 something along the lines of that. regarding the the sound, does it sound like a Jet taking off and becoming progressively louder? If that is the case that is your bearing that is going bad and will need to be replaced. This repair can be very expensive, and in some cases not very cost effective to fix depending on model and age of unit. In some cases, there could also be something stuck in your pump that is bouncing around on the impeller (coins, bobby pin, nail, etc.)
Please get back with us with any addition questions and information.
Tony-AceTech52

Hi Anne. Sounds like you have a defrost issue. First make sure your Evaporator fan motor is running in the freezer section. If it is not, you will need to check with a Multimeter that it is getting 120v. If it is, and not running, the fan motor will need to be replaced. It is also recommended that you remove the back panel in the freezer and check for continuity of the defrost heater and defrost thermostat. If those all check out appropriately, the main control in the refrigerator section will need to be replaced. It is also referred to as a Jazz board. In my experience, more times than not it is in fact the Jazz board that needs to be replaced. Attached is link to the part.
Thanks, Tony-AceTech52

Hi. The First thing I would do is put the washer in a diagnostic mode to see what error codes it has stored. This will give us a better idea of what problem it is having and how to proceed. I have attached a link to a video to show you how to do this.

Are you checking power with a meter i do believe you should get power threw the fuse because it is good . are you checking from both sides of the fuse to ground?

Hi Robin, First things first, Open refrigerator door, hold in light switch, and see if fan is running, It is not very loud. If fan is NOT running, Shut door, and try holding “Lighting” and “Energy Saver” button simultaneously for about 10 seconds. You should then hear the Whole unit kick on. Now as you can imagine, there are various types of models of Samsung refrigerators with different buttons on the dispenser display. If those 2 button combinations do not work, try “Fridge” and “Freezer” for 10 seconds. If that combination doesn’t work, it should be “Freezer” and “Energy Saver”… Since I do not have access to your tech guide supplied with your particular Refrigerator, it is hard for me to Justify what combination it may be. On new Samsung models, It is always “Power Freeze” and “Power Cool” together for 10 seconds. It will reset the board and start the unit. Hopefully this helps, Please get back with us and let me know where we stand!
Thanks Tony-AceTech52

Hi Alex, It sounds like you do have a bad Timer. With is not advancing and making that rattling noise, your best bet would be to replace the timer. All signs point to it with the information you have provided. Attached is a link to your specific timer.

Paul, If you have ice and frost in the freezer and its a self defrosting unit, you most likely have a part of your defrost system going bad.I would start with the defrost timer & defrost thermostat. They can be easily looked up by the model number or you can call parts at 1-800-830-5465 and they will look them up.

refrigerator to cold, ice &frost in freezer

Hello,

I have a few suggestions that might resolve your issue. When you removed the ice from the tray under the evaporator, did you use hot water to clear, and confirm the drain was clear of ice inside of the drain hole? I would use a turkey baster and force hot water into the hole until you can tell that it is draining to the pan below the unit.
How much water is still getting on the floor? Is the bottom of the freezer also filled with water/ice? If the water on the floor is a small amount and the bottom of the freezer is not filled with water your door could have started to defrost and be giving you some water on the floor.

the cycle completes with water(the water level varies) in the washer. it’s between half to full water level. the water at times, when the washer spins. comes out from the drum (on top). before it had gotten this bad, i had to change the clutch. it was not spinning well(slowly). the old clutch had oil and was worn .

That is you water filter. Turn it a quarter turn counter clockwise to remove it. Its recommended you replace your water filter every 6 months. I’ve attached a link to purchase the filter.

Hi. I do not believe that defrost components on this unit have been modified from the originals. The reason that a defrost issue would occur is from part failure. Also, if the drain tube gets clogged with debris or water freezes in them it will cause the water to not drain and thus back up into the refrigerator or freezer. I have replaced many defrost parts on these refrigerators and cleared many drain tubes and usually do not see any reoccurring issues. I hope this is helpful.

Hi. I have attached a link to some repair videos on your ice maker. There may be a video that you have not seen yet. What you need to do is use a jumper wire to cycle the ice maker. Take the head, or front white cover off the ice maker. Now you will have to remove the “L” shaped arm with a green wire going to it. Theirs a quarter inch screw holding in on. Now take the jumper wire ( do this after you have unplugged the refrigerator) and put one end into the hole labeled with a “H” and the other end into the hole labeled with a “T”. Now with the ice maker installed plug the unit back in. The ice maker should start to go through a cycle. You may have to have the door switches closed on the refrigerator for the cycle run. After about 15 seconds of the ice maker cycle. you should hear a click from the ice maker. When this happens take out the jumper wire. The cycle should finish now with out the wire in. If wire is left in the ice maker will not fill and the end of the cycle. If your sure the ice maker has been on and your not getting any water to the ice maker the test cycle with the jumper wire may not be needed. If you pull out your ice maker and there is not ice or water in it, you could have an issue with your water inlet valve to the ice maker or the water line could be frozen preventing water to get to the ice maker. The most common issue I have found on this unit is the ice maker it self. I hope this is helpful.

Is there standing water left in the washer or are the clothes just not getting rung out? Is The washer spinning in the spin cycles? With some more information we can narrow down the issue for you.

I guess the panel is faulty! I have reset and check all connections. I wonder how too much humidity or heat would get into the panel? Could a door seal be bad already? or what about a vent? Things look good and this dishwasher is only 2 years old maybe 3 tops!! It is frustrating!

The F7-E5 error code is a shifter fault error code. The most common problem related to this error code is going to be that the actuator (shifter)has failed. Check broken or loose wires or connections at the control board and actuator. Also, check that the pulley nut has not came loose causing the pulley to drop and rub into the motor shield under the unit. This may cause this error code as well. This would of caused the washer make nose as well. If every thing is good I would replace the actuator. A bad control board can also cause this error code, but the actuator is most common. I have attached a link to the part and to a repair video. I hope this is helpful.

Sharen, Connecting a ground wire should not cause any issues or cause the refrigerator not to cool. Where was the ground wire coming from on the refrigerator ? You should have a grounded plug already ? Try plugging the refrigerator into another outlet with an extension cord you know has power. You may have a bad outlet.

Hi,

I did the same exactly like the way it was shown in the video and its working perfectly fine. Many thanks.

I have seem many of these control panels have this issue with the LEDS staying lit or dim. Looks like you have a faulty control panel. If excessive moisture or heat entered the control area it could have damaged the control panel. Check your connections and reset the unit by turning power of to it for 5 mins. IF connections are good and resetting it does not work then you have a bad control panel. I attached a link to the part for you.