All Answers

Well, I replaced the cycling thermostat too, just for good measure, but I’m still having the same problem. Flame ignites & burns for about 8 seconds and shuts off. Timer will not advance. Any other suggestions out there?

I have attached a link to a repair video that shows how to get your ice maker out. I hope this is helpful!

Thanks for the video! It always help to see what we are talking about. I first part that i suspect would be the door switch. This switch controls the light inside as well as recognizing that the door is closed. The unit is acting as if the door is not shut when you try to start a cycle. That is why it beeps at you and the display blinks when you press start. The dryer recognizes the cycle you have started, that’s why you can not change the cycle after you have pressed start. It blinks and beeps because the switch is bad and not recognizing that the door is closed to start. Try pressing the door switch in and out to see if its stuck. See if the light comes on when you do this. I would check the door switch connection and test the switch for continuity.The model number that you have provided is not valid. With a good model number I can provided a link to order the part and possibly a repair video. Model number should be on the front panel when you open the door. I hope this was helpful!

Hi. It really sounds like you have a refrigerator section defrost issue. This would cause the refrigerator section to get too warm and the freezer section to get too cold. When the unit is thawed out (the frost is removed from the refrigerator evaporator) the unit will seem too cool properly for about a week. Then because the refrigerator has not been self defrosting, enough frost has built up on the evaporator to stop air flow and thus stop cooling in the refrigerator. There are 4 parts to your defrost system. The thermistor or sensor, the fuse, the heater, and the control board. One or more of theses has failed. Here is a link to a repair video to that shows how to get to theses components (besides the the board) to test them.I have also attached a link for the evaporator assembly that comes with the sensor, heater, and fuse. I hope this has been helpful.

Hi Sam.
I’m not sure I quite understand what you are asking so i will try to answer the best I can. The back panel on the back of the refrigerator has to be removed to remove the old grommet and replace it with the new drain tube. At this point, when you remove the grommet the water will drain out if you have followed the video and cleared the ice and ran hot water in the drain to thaw the ice out. The repair can also be done with out removing the evaporator cover inside the freezer section if you are able and willing to leave the refrigerator unplugged with the freezer door open for 24 hrs. You would just need to replace the drain tube in the back and then the ice with thaw out in the 24 hr time period.This would eliminate having to take the freezer section apart. You can verify that the water is draining at this point by checking the drip pan for water and even pouring some water through the vents of the evaporator cover and seeing that it comes out through the drain tube into the drip pan. I hope this was helpful!

Hello thank you for your question. First thing I would recommend checking is that all 4 of your suspension rods are still intact and not bent, damaged, or not connected. To do this, lean the washer back against the hoses, (I would recommend removing them first) and look under the unit and locate the 4 suspension rods and visually inspect them. If they all look ok and not damaged in any way. I would just make sure the clothes are evenly distributed in washer. I am just assuming what model you have, it would help immensely if you could provide a model number to insure proper support.
Thank you!
Tony-AceTech52

From looking at this model you have just one paddle for dispensing water and ice. So It appears that the door switches are working because you get water to dispense with no issues. So this would leave the dispenser board ,dispenser module, auger motor and door chute. When you try and dispense ice does the ice chute door open? Does the auger motor run to push the ice out? I would say the most likely thing causing this issue would be the dispenser module.

It seems like a drain tube issue. Since you do not have water hooked up to this unit in the garage, the only water that forms is going to be from the unit going into defrost which should be draining through the drain tube into the drip pan. Is the ice on the freezer floor solid ice or frost? Frost can build up in the unit from warm air entering the freezer ( ex. if the doors were left open) and usually forms frost on the food packages. Where is the ice build up at other than the freezer floor? The model number you provided is not valid. Looks like you are missing the first 3 digits of the model number.

I have done the checks with the heating element that you mention and everything is good. I cleaned the vent running outside last night. I really appreciate your response and I will do the “vent checks” that you mention. I believe it has to be venting at this point. Thanks again for the reply!!

start with removing trim cover around dispensor housing this is done by useing a very small flat blade screwdriver insert driver into top left corner outer of trim then slowly and gently move down and around trim popping tab out of position then at top of disp.touch pad left and right remove 2 phillips screws panel will lean forward and lift out 2 more screws feft and right and module will come out check for voltage at dispensor switch if no voltage you will need to move to checking continuity through your door switches 2 at top and one in left side wall of freezer if you need further assistance let us know

your cold water coil is open replace your valve assembly

you will need to pull out frezer door 1 phillips screw on each drawer rail removed will allow you to lift door oiut of rails bottom basket will come out with door remove top basket 1 screw in center of evap. cover 1 screw on left side about hlf way up pry panel out of left side of evap. cover this will make it easier to pull cover out on the right side of the evap.you see a plastic envelope wedged into top right frame of evap.follow wires to plug unplug and check continuity with an ohm meter if you have continuity your pcb main is bad located on the rear wall of cabinet 2 #2 phillips screw hol cover panel on if no continuity replace fuse asm.should also check heat continuity while you are there if fuse is open and black mastic material on tubing has helted down onto evaporator rplace both fuse and pcb main

when you checked continuity at heater did you check for continuity from the element to ground this is done by placing one meter lead on one heater terminal and the other on the case of the heater and you need to disconnect vent from the wall run vent connector around dryer to the front and see if it runs normally if so you have plugged venting another way to check venting is to run dryer on high heat for 5 minutes stop dryer change setting to air fluff run for 1 minute open dor if air feels warm or hot venting is plugged needs to be cleaned out with 4 inch round brush you can call a vent cleanning company or buy a vent cleanning kit at lowe,s call linteater it attatches to you 3/8 drill and you can purchse an extension rod kit if your vent run is more than 32 feet long if you get continuity from element to ground (case) replace element

you will need to tip washer back and look underneath to see if the belt came off the cam pully there are 2 bolts that hold the protective cage in place remove those if belt off and not broken grasp center pully and see if it wiggles at all if it does you will need to replace it there is also an actuator locatted to the right of this pully that should be replaced at the same time 2 #2 phillips screw hold it in place the cam and pully are removed by removing the bottom nut and you need to release the push tabs locatted around the side of the cam so you can slide it done the shaft pay careful attention to cam and pully allignement actuator pin needs to line up with loop comming off side of cam hope this helps please write back if you see anything different from what i described and i can give you further assistance

you will need to tip washer back and look underneath to see if the belt came off the cam pully there are 2 bolts that hold the protective cage in place remove those if belt off and not broken grasp center pully and see if it wiggles at all if it does you will need to replace it there is also an actuator locatted to the right of this pully that should be replaced at the same time 2 #2 phillips screw hold it in place the cam and pully are removed by removing the bottom nut and you need to release the push tabs locatted around the side of the cam so you can slide it done the shaft pay careful attention to cam and pully allignement actuator pin needs to line up with loop comming off side of cam hope this helps please write back if you see anything different from what i described and i can give you further assistance

hi michael you will need to remove everything from you freezer,remove the evap.cover@rear of freezer on the top of the evaporator wich looks like a radiator left or right side you will see a disc aprox.1/2-3/4 inch tall with two wires comming out of it this is your defrost thermostat with power disconnected to unit you will need to check across the 2 wires for continuity with an ohm meter sometimes it will be bowed up on one side showing obviouse damage if you get continuity there you will also have to check continuity through the defrost heater that wraps around the undeside of the evaporator if both test ok you will need to replace the adaptive defrost control in the control section top front of refrigerator compartment this is done by removing 2 1/4 inch screws locatted in ceilling behind control panel then remove control knobs with small flat blade screwdriver pry facier strip off to reveal 2 more 1/4 inch screws remove them and 2 #2 phillipps screws on bottom that hold control to panel unplug wires and plug into new control reverse process for reassembly you will need to manually thaw the evaporator with a hair dryer no matter wich part of the defrost system is bad as 1 dfrost cycle will not melt all of the frost and it will then become ice wich is harder for the system to remove hope that helps you out

if you provide me your model number i can provide you with the information you seek but generically speeking you could have had food splatter into probe connection causing the computor to see a shorted probedc

remove all shelving from fresh food section lower left corner of rear wall will be a case assembly with wires going into it the wires go to a 5 watt resistance heater to keep tank from freezing should ohm this part out and if open replace with tank but when you unscrew the case assembly you will see tank i recommend disconnect hose at top of cabinet and pull it through match that hose with new hoses to find the right length on new tank and push it through cabinet then go to rear of refrigerator disconnect the other hose pull it through push second hose through reconnect that hose then reassemble fresh food interior

your drain is plugged and or frozen you will need to remove all shelving in the middle of rear wall is a shelf rail it 2 phillips screws top screw has a plastic cover that pries out note unit should be unplugged for a couple of hours with doors wide open to make removal of evap. cover possible after screws are removed you will need to pry evap. cover out using a paint scrapper being careful not to break styrofoam duct asm.use a turkey baister to thaw and flush drain then take piece of coat hanger metal not plastic long enough to wrapp one end around heater along underside of evap.and able to insert into drain hole aproximately 1 1/2 inch into drain hole then reassemble replace shelving and your problem will be solved

your drain is plugged and or frozen you will need to remove all shelving in the middle of rear wall is a shelf rail it 2 phillips screws top screw has a plastic cover that pries out note unit should be unplugged for a couple of hours with doors wide open to make removal of evap. cover possible after screws are removed you will need to pry evap. cover out using a paint scrapper being careful not to break styrofoam duct asm.use a turkey baister to thaw and flush drain then take piece of coat hanger metal not plastic long enough to wrapp one end around heater along underside of evap.and able to insert into drain hole aproximately 1 1/2 inch into drain hole then reassemble replace shelving and your problem will be solved