All Answers

Try turning power off to the unit for 5 mins and turning back on. This will reset the control board. See if the buttons now respond. Press cancel to clear any cycle it may be in. If this does not work you will need the control panel. Here is a link for the part and a link for to a repair video. The dishwasher in the video is not the same model as yours, but will give you a general idea on how to replace the control.

pull unit out see if vent holes on back cover are blocked vacuum vent holes and condensor tubing behind cover if fully blocked can overheat main board underneath unit also the refrigerant itself cannot release heat properly so it enters evaporator at higher than normal pressure and temp reducing its ability to remove heat you can not make cold you can only remove heat

power to compressor comes directly from the main board on the back of the cabinet if no power to compressor it is the board if you have power at the compressor may have bad start device or bad compressor hope that helps put you in the right direction

Hi Doug. Your dishwasher uses a standard latch for opening and closing. As long as you have all shipping tape and packaging removed the door should open when pulled. If not you may have a damaged door latch or something may be bent.

Hi Starla. The FH error code on your washer can be a lot of different things. Here is what the FH error code stands for as stated in the tech sheet on your washer.
FH
possible causes/procedures
■ If there is no water in the unit:
— Make sure that both valves at the water source(s) are turned
on all the way.
— Check for plugged or kinked inlet hoses or plugged screens in
the inlet valves.
— Verify inlet valve operation.
■ If there is water in the unit:
— Verify drain pump operation.
— Verify that the pressure switch hose is in good condition and
properly connected to tub and pressure switch.
1. Verify there is not a siphon problem.
2. Unplug washer or disconnect power.
3. Verify wire harness connections to inlet valves,
pressure switch, drain pump, flow meter, and
Central Control Unit (CCU).
4. Check all hoses for possible leaks.
5. Plug in washer or reconnect power
6. Verify pressure switch operation.
7. Verify flow meter operation by blowing air through the part and
measuring the resistance.
8. Verify CCU operation by running a Diagnostic test or any cycle

With some more information I can help you narrow it down and find out which part is the issue. First make sure that both water valves are turned on and you are getting hot and cold water to the washer. Make sure the drain is elevated roughly as high or tall as the washer is before it goes into a drain. When does the FH error code occur in the cycle? Is the washer filling, agitating, draining and spinning?

steve look for a lock symbol on or under one of the push buttons if you press and hold the corresponding key you should be able to use normally again the manufacture of each brand is putting child lock functions in the units so children can not play with them like toys

you should be able to remove burner grates and access screws on inside lip of each burner well may be 4 in each as well as in fan draft section and raise top unplug unit clean out switches let dry and retry them if it still sparks replace switches the module will be off to the side but it should not have been effected by the spill

pull evap cover check drain hole if frozen can clear with hot water and a turkey baister and then attach wire or piece of coat hanger from defrost heater down into drain hole if you use wire it must have the insolatting coatting stripped off it

on the top cover at rear 3 screws either 1/4 inch hex or torx slide panel back 2 screws 1 on either side top of plastic console remove soap drawer 2 screws in drawer housing remove them console should pull off there will be 2-4 screws top of front panel 3-4 screws on bottom and in the door well remove 3 screws that hold door lock in place with a pair of needle nose pliers and a scratch all or small tipped screwdriver slightly stretch retainer spring around rubber door bellow and peel it off then pull bellow out of groove and fold into tub you may hve to lift and wiggle front panel a bit and will come off exspossing pump and motor area

Hi Piyush,
You need to first check the defrost heater and defrost thermostat in the freezer section by ohming them out or preforming a continuity test on the parts. To get access to the parts you have to take apart the freezer and removed the back panel also called the evaporator cover. After you have tested those two parts and if they are “good”, then that will help narrow down the component(s) needed. Let me know if you need further assistance. Thank you.

hI Matt,

You are the man!
A video on the 700’s would be fantastic!
As best I can tell you need to be a contortionist to replace compressors on these.

What escape me are two things, A) with little flex in those refrigerant lines, how they ever got all that in there and brazed in the first place and B) whether in going back one has to actually use longer coils of copper tubing on the suction and high sides, while connecting the compressors out in the floor, in front of the unit, and then sliding it back in….and why they don;t do it that way at the factory.

I would be interested in knowing your reaction to my A and B above, if you have a chance!

Many thank, ernie

hI Matt,

You are the man!
A video on the 700’s would be fantastic!
As best I can tell you need to be a contortionist to replace compressors on these.

What escape me are two things, A) with little flex in those refrigerant lines, how they ever got all that in there and brazed in the first place and B) whether in going back one has to actually use longer coils of copper tubing on the suction and high sides, while connecting the compressors out in the floor, in front of the unit, and then sliding it back in….and why they don;t do it that way at the factory.

I would be interested in knowing your reaction to my A and B above, if you have a chance!

Many thank, ernie

We are in the process of of filming more Sub Zero videos. We have started filming different models and should have a 700 series up within the next 30 days. We unfortunately at this time do not have phone support. I have attached two Sub Zero video links that may help.

Thanks Matt

Here is a Hotpoint repair video

Sounds like you have a rear tub bearing going bad and when it reaches it top speed it makes a loud noise like a plane, to fix problem you will have to contact service company near you job requires alot of labor and knowledge repair cost can be costly depending on what has really went bad.

Thanks for the suggestion, and becoming a member! We will look into these models to see what we can find, currently we have our videos filmed and being edited through January. We will add these on our suggested list to do.

If you visit our Request a Repair page you will find a form to fill out to better file your suggestions.
https://www.appliancevideo.com/?post_type=appliances&p=580

Thanks again,

AV Team

Hi. I have attached a link for videos similar to the models you have requested. They are not for the exact model numbers requested. I hope This was helpful!