All Answers

Thank so much for your help

Hi Ryan. That model number is not a good model number. I did find a model number just one digit off. LFA5700w1. The p# for this timer on this model is 660756. This part is no longer available since 2006 and I do not see any substitute or universal part to replace this. I’m not sure of any company that would be able to repair this for you either. You may try ebay or amazon for this part.

Hi Bill Thanks for your question. Your best bet is shutting the unit down for at least 24 hours and let the frozen drain line completely thaw out. The part will come with an instruction packet also. Attached are the drain tube link to purchase and a video that gives an in-depth tutorial.
Tony-AceTech52

Hi John. Diagnosing a bad transmission can be difficult. I will need some more information as to what the symptoms of the washer are. Does the washer fill, agitate, drain, spin? Is it leaking oil, water? Making any noises etc.? I will be able to further help you with some more information.

Yes. We have many videos on this type of washer. In the search bar at appliancevideos .com, type in wtw. This will bring up many videos for this washer. It may not be the exact model you were searching for but is going to be the same style of washer. Also, search mtw for more videos on this style washer. Attached is the link with the search for wtw that has a lot of videos.

Hi Linda! Thank you for your question. On your particular Refrigerator, it has 2 evaporators, one for the freezer side, and one for the Fresh food side. What you will need to do is access the control board on the back of the unit. With a multimeter set to ohms, you will need to check for continuity through the defrost fuse and heater. There should be a schematic taped to the back of the unit. But off the top of my head, I believe the “common” is either black or orange. The defrost system should be White for the fresh food side and brown for the Freezer side. The schematic should tell you which is which with the abbreviations of FF for freezer and RF for the refrigerator side. If you have no continuity through the fresh food side, then what you will have is a bad thermal fuse and/or heater. In most cases it is just the fuse that is bad. But it is wise to check for continuity of the defrost heater upon gaining access to the evaporator. In any case, always replace the sensor also. In regards to the fan motor, make sure to push the light switch in when door is open to check its functionality. It only runs when door is closed.

The water under your crisper drawers is usually caused by a frozen drain line behind the fresh food panel under the evaporator.

If you do find that there is a problem with one of the components of the defrost system, please let us know and I will get back to you with a link to the part numbers!
Thank you Tony-AceTech52

To go along with what Robert said, it shows on GE stoves an F7 error as a failure in the control board, the touch pad, or an error from both components. The F9 error shows to be possible error with the door lock switch and or the wiring going to the switch or the switch not getting information from the control board.

sounds like you have a short in the wire harness or in the control asm. you will need to check in depth with a meter you can disconnect control and ohm out the relay on the control to see if the relay contacts are fused together to help eliminate wire harness

on the back of your range there should be a tech sheet that will tell you what those codes are for one is probably stuck key error more than likely you will need to replace the electronic control

ceaser your first course of action is to pull the back wall oiut of the freezer and check to see if you have an even frost pattern on the evap. if you do but it is thick enough frost that air can not pass you will need to check the defrost sensor and defrost terminator these items are located one on the top of evap. and one may be on the side of the evap.use an ohm meter to check continuity terminater may read all zero,s and be good the sensor may be in the 5 ohm range it will change with temperature change in unit if you do not have a full frost pattern you may have a refrigerant leak or an ineficient compressor i hope this helps you with this issue

Hi Ralph. We need to have access to the tech sheet in order to force a defrost mode. I was unable to find any tech sheet information on this model. The tech sheet is hidden somewhere inside the cabinet of your unit. Some of the most common places are under the toe panel on the bottom front of the freezer or under the back panel of the freezer. there will be a piece of paper folded up, and possibly in a plastic bag or envelope. This is your tech sheet and should explain how to force a defrost mode on your freezer if possible. I hope this was helpful!

Hi Steve. With the symptoms you have described, it really seems like you have a bad user interface board p#8558753 (platinum color). This board has the display on it as well as the the buttons. So with the buttons and display not working even while the dryer is running would definitely point to the user interface board. The control board (other board) is what controls the units heat and motor. There is no way to be 100% sure however, but if it was me i would install a new UI board. First check your connections at both boards to make sure all connections are tight and no wires are damaged. I hope this has been helpful!

there is a sensor mounted on the tube the flame is in. two wires running to it. this sences the flame if its bad or covered with dirt it closes the gas valve and shuts the ignitor off. it needs replaced,or cleaned. it will keep trying to light but will keep shutting off because it doesn’t see the flame.

To reset enter service mode by-

SERVICE DIAGNOSTICS WITH ERROR CODES
Entry sequence: Press START to wake up control panel and then press any 3 keys in the sequence 1-2-3-1-2-3-1-2-3
with no more than 1 second between key presses.

Once in service mode, the cancel button should exit this mode, thus resting unit. If not turn off the power to the unit for 5 mins and turn back on.

Hi Paul. If your clean light blinks 4 times then pauses and blinks 4 more times you have a wash motor error code. The tech sheet explains this error codes as –
4-4 error.
Loose connection in Wash Motor
Circuit and/or open wash motor. 1. Unplug dishwasher or disconnect power.
2. Check all connections in Wash Motor Circuit with meter. Fix/
replace open connection/part.
Motor fuse on control open. Refer to Fuse Service and Diagnostic Checks on Page 1 (next
to Meter Check Diagram). Faulty wash motor drive circuit on
the control.
Faulty wash motor.

I would make sure all your connections are good. Something may have came disconnected at the motor when you were working on the drain pump. The fuse could be bad as well. Your tech sheet should be located on the back side of the toe panel at the bottom of the dishwasher. I hope this was helpful!

you need to seperate console from control if actuator pins are not broken you will need new control assembly

IF GRINDING NOISE IS CONSTANT YOU MAY HAVE A SEPERATE STIRROR MOTOR IN UNIT LOCATED IN THE TOP OF THE CAVITY OR YOUR COOLING FAN MOTOR BEARING MAY BE BAD IF THE NOISE IS INTERMITTANT THEN YOU MAY HAVE MAGNETRON OR HIGH VOLTAGE SUPPLY ISSUE

if you have 120v +or-10% at the evap. motor and it does not turn and is not obstructed yes you have a bad motor if voltage is 108 or less you need to check the defrost terminator (small round disc with 2 wires coming out of it )