All Answers

Hello
If all of your components are working. There is a very good possibility you have a sealed system issue. This unit has a high rate of sealed system problems. A sealed system issue is a refrigerant leak in the evaporator or refrigerant lines or an internal compressor issue not pumping the refrigerator. See the diagnostics chart on page Page #91 in the service manual link along with all of the #106 page service manual.

Hello
See Service manual ( Ice maker test on page 77, 78, 79 )

Hello
See the Service Bulletin ( Refrigerator section too cold ) link below. If this is not the issue then go to the service manual diagnostics on fresh food section in the second link .

Hello
I have provided the diagnostics guide to run the unit through troubleshooting mode. The freezer fan test is #47 in the (mini manual) . Access to the freezer fan harness is on page #72 in the (Service Manual Complete Guide) . There is also one service bulletin on the fan motor I attached.

Hello
Run the diagnostic test it the technician manual link below. If the compressor does not start do a winding resistance check of of the compressor Run windings with an OHM meter it should be 6.4. The start windings should also be at 6.4 with the power off. The red and white wire to the inverter should have 120volts with power on. If these checks are correct, replaced the inverter board. We find the inverter board defective 90% of the time and 10% of the time compressor defective. Go to page #17 of the Service manual for compressor specifications.

Hello
The first thing you need to check is temperatures. Make sure you are getting proper temperatures or the ice maker WILL NOT cycle. LG refrigerators are very common for sealed system refrigerant leaks or defective compressors. Go to page #65 in the service manual link below for sealed system diagnostics and page #66 for ice maker diagnostics.

Hello
See the training manual and service manual for this issue. There are no service bulletin’s for this frosting issue on your model. You will want to make sure :
1) The door flap solenoid is a very common issue, if the solenoid is weak you will develop frost.
2) Both refrigerator and freezer door seals are sealing at 100%. Make sure there are no gaps or ripped seals at the bottom of the doors that you cannot see.
3) Make sure the customer is not putting hot food in the freezer section as this will cause a frost build up.

Hi, I’m not finding any videos at this time for this issue. A lot of times I have ran into this and replaced parts, only to find out it was a container in the frige pushing against the door when closing it or a shelf in the frige and a bin on the door that made contact when closing the door. Also, make sure the center door flipper is engaging the tracks properly if it has any and closing properly. If you close this the door that is the issue without closing the other door does it then close properly? The key is to find out where the resistance is pushing back on the door. I would remove all bins, shelves and containers on the door and in side the unit just to be sure. Then try closing it. Is the door rubbing anywhere around the frame when closing it? Try putting your phone and video record and setting it in side the unit to see where the door is not. Losing properly at.

Hi.
I took a look at that error code on the tech sheet for this unit. It says to replace the control if the UI does not fix the issue. Even though you do have the 14 vdc to the UI, the control could still be faulty. It could not be receiving the feedback signal properly from the UI. The only other possibility would be the wire harness between the 2.
I see they list the 2 different controls. One with power supply and one with out. Your unit will only have one or the other. I pulled up pictures of both and they look different. Best thing to do would be to look at the control on the unit and match it up by looking at pictures of the others. I just did a Google search to find images of each part number. They are listed as 3, and 3a on the parts diagram. Also, you could see if the current board has a part number listed on it and go with that one.

Hello , things to check if motor runs and element is good.
1) Hi-Limit triped or is open.
2) Regulating thermostat triped or is open.
3) Membrane switch open.
4) Check Thermistor , possibly defective.

Hello
Go to page #45 in the service manual link below. Run the unit in the ( Service inspection mode ) This will pinpoint the specific issue and problem.

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See the technician sheet and training bulletin. Go to page #4 Tactile HMI Board Model. Make sure you followed the instructions properly on board installation. Select plugs are NOT included with new control boards. You must remove the plug from the old board and install it onto the new board prior to connecting power to the board. See page #4 in training link below.

Hello
The error code #5 is a mode shifter error. Control cannot transition from agitate to spin. Go to the service manual link below. On page #1 go to error code #5 for corrections on the issue.

Hi. I have attached the service manual as well as a service bulletin for the issue you are having. The best way to defrost the ice box would be to unplug the unit and leave the doors open for 24 hrs and put towels down to collect any water. You could use a steamer but it will probably take hrs to thaw.

Hello

So the unit now has no power at all no display ? If you have any display at all verify and check the consumer’s power conditions. Make sure to check the operating voltage along with proper polarity and ground. If you have any display at all run the unit through the diagnostic mode and find any stored error codes. If you have no display at all you will need to start with the main PBA. See all manuals, parts lists and diagnostics links below.

Hello
Sometimes If you have a very large load with tennis shoes or heavy items it can push the door open if the unit is overloaded. There is also the strike to hold it in place once the door shuts. The metal strike also places tension on the catch assembly. The opening and closing of the dryer door can weaken or compromise the strike and catch over time, allowing the dryer door to pop open prematurely on its own while drying your clothes. If this continues to happen , I would start by replacing hold catch assembly. Here is the part number # DC97-17991A Assembly Holder Lever.

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See all manual links below along with diagnostics.