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If you need any parts call our parts department at 1-800-830-5465 or order on line at http://www.savemoreonparts.com This video have linked to this post gives you basic trouble shooting for the ice maker on your unit. The first thing you want to do is verify that the ice maker is getting water into it. Here are 15 Whirlpool video’s that are very good quality. https://www.appliancevideo.com/appliances/whirlpool-gold-series/

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In reply to: Blinking Error Codes

Hi. I can help you with this error code that your washer is flashing at you. The first flash or blink of the console lights is the F and the second flash is the E part of the error code. So if on the first flash just the fill light is lit and then on the second flash the rinse and done lights come on it would be a F0 E5 error code . This error code is an off balance load error code. The washer has detected an off balance load. If clothing was not distributed evenly and the basket got off balance in the spin cycle it would cause the washer to stop and then flash this error code. Usually the you can hear the washer going off balance when this occurs. The basket most likely would have been banging against the cabinet. If it was not an off balance load you may have an issue with the suspension of the washer. Press down on the tub and let go. It should not bounce up and down more than once when pushed down. If it bounces up and down more than that you will need to check that the 4 suspension rods are in proper location at the top of the cabinet under the top panel and at the tub. If they are it there proper place you will need new suspension rods. I hope this was helpful.

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Thanks for the info Tony. We don’t have the ice maker hooked up so it’s not that but I will check your other recommendation and let you know if it fixes the problem. Thanks again!

  • Guest answered 12 years ago
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Hello Amy! Thank you for your question… In most cases when you are getting water or ice in the bottom of your freezer, it is caused by a frozen or clogged drain line. Always make sure to check the ice maker fill tube that it is in the proper position into the ice maker and not inserted correctly. In some cases you can just shut down the refrigerator for 24 hours with the door open to allow drain line to completely thaw. If problem persists after shutting down, you will need to follow these steps. What you will need to do is remove the bottom couple of shelves and racks to access the back panel inside the freezer. After removing shelving, you will need to remove the back panel by taking out the 1/4 inch or Phillips head screws. Usually about 4. CAREFUL edges of back panel are very sharp. You may also need to remove light bulb. After removing panel, you will see a silver drip pan under the evaporator which will most likely be covered in ice. Remove ice build up. Then a good way to clear the drain tube, you can use some very hot water and a turkey baster simply squirt down the drain until build up has melted and water flows down the drain freely. Again, be careful as the evaporator and panel are very sharp. Good luck on your repair! Any other follow up questions, don’t hesitate to ask!
Tony-AceTech52

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I have attached a link for the repair video for your control. The updated part # for this control is W10503278. This control is also referred to as a JAZZ board. If you need help further diagnosing your refrigerator to make sure your problem is within the Jazz board just ask.
I hope you find this helpful.

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When you turn on the dryer does it give you any heat at all, most likely at the beginning of the cycle? Or does it not produce any heat at all? Typically with gas coils that are bad, you will get heat at the beginning of a cycle when the unit has not been ran for a while and has had a chance to “cool off”. Then the coils fail and do not allow heat to be produce through the rest of the cycle or for an extended period of time through the cycle until they “cool down” again.

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I have included a link to a video that shows an example on how to replace a bake element

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Hello Andrea,
Replacing the element in the oven is fairly simple. First you will want to unplug the range. Next you will open the oven door and remove the racks to ease the removal and installation of the element. The element is held in place by 2 screws at the back wall of the oven cavity. Once you remove the screws, you can gently pull the element out to gain access to the wiring. The wires have flat terminals and will slide off of the element terminals (use caution to not allow the wires to go back inside the hole that they came out of. If this happens you will have to access the back of the range to get to wires). Once the old element is out, follow the given instructions in reverse order to install the new element. Hopefully this helps you!

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Hi Dennis,
Based on your issue I think the most likely fix would be the gas coils. I’ll place the part number below for you to purchase and a video to show how to install. This should get you back up and running.

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Hi. The model number you have listed is not valid. It looks like the last 2 digits are off. I have looked up similar model numbers. It looks like you have a Whirlpool Cabrio or Maytag Bravos style top load washer. I’m not sure how far into the repair you are. Once you lift up the top panel/lid of the washer you then have to remove the tub ring by releasing the tabs. Then remove the cap of the impeller and remove the bolt of the impeller and remove the impeller, just like in the video. Now you are ready to pull the tub out which can be difficult to do sometimes. If may require two people. In fact two people will make this task a lot easier. The tubs on these washers can be very difficult to remove as they get “stuck” on the shaft and when you try and pull just the basket up the whole tub assembly comes up with it. You can also try to wiggle the basket back and forth as you pull up on it to try and free it from the shaft. One person needs to grab the basket on each side of the lip inside and pull up evenly and straight off the shaft while the other person holds the outer tub down so it doesn’t move up with the basket when you pull it. This may take a lot of upward force to pull the basket off the shaft. I hoped this has helped and good luck with your repair. Please let me know if I can be of further assistance.

Tech Brian V

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In reply to: what is fault F-83

F83 is a Lid unlock failure. Unplug the washer, access the control panel by loosening the (3) 1/4″ screws securing the rear of the control panel and then “roll” it forward to access the electronic control. Next, verify that the wire harness connections for the lid lock assembly on the main electronic control board is securely in place. If the connections are okay, then you need to open the top panel by depressing the (2) hidden tabs that are located on the “seam” between the front panel and the top panel about 2′ in from either side. To do so, use a putty knife as to not damage the paint and depress the spring tabs while carefully lifting up on the top panel to access the lid lock assembly. With this being done, you can now replace the lid lock assembly if needed.

For this error, and if the wiring was securely installed into the electronic control I would replace the lid lock assembly

The lid lock assembly part # for your stated model is: W10059230 and I have included a link for it as well

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Hello Raul; I believe what you are talking about is called a retaining ring which does look like a c clip and there are actually 2 different ones on your clutch assembly which is what I think you are referring to as a “brake cam driver” – there is a larger one which is the upper one and it has a part # of W10080230 and then there is a slightly smaller one just below that one which has a part # of 285353 . THE GOOD NEWS IS you can order your retaining ring(s) from appliancevideo.com and they will be delivered right to your door for your convenience . I hope this helps you out and as always good luck with your repair !

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Hello Michael! Thank you for your question. Sounds like you have some kind of defrost issue. Upon removing the back panel in freezer, was the whole evaporator covered in ice and frost? As if it has not defrosted in a while? This could cause low or no air flow which is why your refrigerator is not cooling properly. In most cases, this problem usually point to either a defrost timer, defrost heater, or the defrost bi-metal. Upon removing the back panel, the bi-metal will have a pink and brown wire going to it. Sometimes when they fail, the top of the bi-metal will be popped up. Caused by water getting inside it, freezing, and causing it to expand and break. In some cases, the defrost heater will be the root of the problem. The heater can be tested by doing a simple continuity check with a multimeter, set to ohms. As long as your evaporator fan motor is running, I would check these things first and feel free to get back with us!
Thanks,
Tony-AceTech52

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Hello Kelly! Thank you for your question. On most Whirlpool Duet Dryers, (if not all) the heating element is towards the back right bottom of the unit, BUT it is accessed through the front by removing the bottom kick panel. Trained and experienced technicians are usually able to test the heater by performing a continuity check on the two terminals on the heating element itself with a multimeter without removing the drum. But in order to actually replace the heater (8544771) itself, you would have to remove the drum from the cabinet. I am attaching a link to a video that should provide step by step instructions on how to access and replace this particular heater. Although, i would highly recommend doing a continuity test on the thermal fuse located on the blower housing before automatically assuming it is in fact the heater that is causing your dryer not to heat. You would need to remove the bottom kick panel, and then the blower housing itself, which is the silver housing behind kick panel. It should have three 1/4 inch screws holding it on. The fuse will be the long skinny white one.
Always remember to UNPLUG unit before accessing! Feel free to ask any other questions! I hope this helps you get started
Tony-AceTech52

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Hello Raul! Thank you for your question, if you could provide a model number for your washer it would be very helpful to get your question answered accurately. If it is a Kenmore, it should start with a prefix of 110. or 690. etc… I believe the 80 series is a top load washer, and the model number should be located under the lid in the back right corner, or behind the main console. Thanks- AceTech52

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In reply to: Washer is not spinning

hello conrad in order to help you properly i need to look up your washer by model # to see what i am dealing with and model #wah2300aw011 you posted does not come up – please double check model # and repost question and i will do my best to help you

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hello Byrd … behind your display board is a mechanism called a DISPENSER MODULE and it has” micro switches” that are not releasing after being depressed by the actuator paddle when dispensing. first UN PLUG REFRIGERATOR and then you will have to locate screws holding display board in place (usually 2 on top and 2 on bottom outside corners of display board) after gently removing display board and unplugging connectors you will find dispenser module as a complete assembly including paddle and switches . It is held in place by 2 screws and has to be gently removed to replace. Be careful because you will have to also slide water tube out of module to remove . When replacing , simply reverse your steps HOWEVER it is very difficult to reapply water tube through new module as there is very little room to do so ,but here is a tip – remove your kick panel and just before the water tube goes into the bottom of the door there will be a coupling -remove 1 side of the tube from coupling and VERY CAREFULLY pull tube from top end where it comes out behind dispenser . DO NOT PULL TUBING TOO FAR OR IT WILL BE PULLED INTO BOTTOM OF DOOR AND THEN YOU ARE IN TROUBLE !!!! -pull just enough to get a couple inches of play and then you can have enough room to get your fingers on tube and push through slot in new module ; this repair takes a steady hand and patience !! Based on model # you provided your part for new module is part # 242074211. you can order your new part from appliancevideo.com and it will be delivered right to your door . GOOD LUCK

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hello rob i see you posted this question 3 days ago and i did reply to it yesterday but it appears that you did not go back to your original post to see it so here is detailed info on how to solve your issue – i also provided part #s and you can order them if needed from appliancevideo.com and they will be delivered rigt to your door for your conveneince hello rob – it basically comes down to 2 issues one is not enough water into unit OR the motor is not working properly – an easy way to determine if it is a water volume issue is by simply adding about a quart of water to unit after it has filled and if it operates the upper spray arm then you do not have enough water -if this is the case it is usually a calcification build up in your supply valve and connection under the kitchen sink where the dishwasher supply line hooks up -if you are comfortable with working on plumbing (be sure to check for leaks after reassembly !!) you can disconnect at supply valve and see if there is a calcification build up in valve & if so turn water off at hot water heater. If supply valve is a compression type valve you can remove it and clear calcification or replace it ( even though hot water has been turned of at hot water heater ( be prepared to handle water coming out of pipe after removing valve with towels and a wet vac ) reattach valve after clearing &turn valve to OFF position and turn water back on at hot water heater . Then before turning supply valve back on do same thing at solenoid valve connection where line attaches to dishwasher, then before reconnecting solenoid valve connection put line in an empty 2 liter bottle and turn supply valve on to flush line and check water flow, which should be very strong . Reconnect solenoid valve connection and check operation – if still not enough water going in you may need to replace solenoid valve( part # 154637401 ) by removing 2 screws and fill hose to tub (very simple) .OR IF YOU ARE SURE YOU HAVE ENOUGH WATER TO UNIT AND STILL NOT WORKING UPPER SPRAY ARM then unfortunately you have a bad motor – fairly simple to replace but dishwasher will have to be removed for this repair BE SURE TO TURN OFF POWER disconnect electrical supply +drain hose connection and water supply line then remove dishwasher from cabinet. Lay on its back (careful not to damage anything -a blanket to lay it on would be a good idea ) and simply remove 2 screws from motor retainer plate and slide down motor retainer plate from motor recess and unplug motor connection plug.Then to remove motor just pull straight out of unit then reverse steps to re install new motor ( part # 154859101) and is fairly expensive – but i usually do find water issue most likely cause . Hope this gives some direction at what to do and please be sure to check for leaks very carefully after everything is put back together and good luck

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Hi. The first thing that we need to make sure of is that on the timed cycles that it is heating the entire cycle. If on either cycle the dryer heats at the beginning of the cycle and then produces no heat for the rest of the cycle you may have bad primary and secondary gas coils. Your thermistor is not faulty if you getting about 10k ohms at room temp. You can also check the moisture sensor by unplugging the dryer and placing a piece of metal ( like a screw driver) across the two metal strips and check for continuity. If you get a reading on your meter your moisture sensor is not bad. If everything above checks out good it looks like you may have and issue in the timer or control board. Once you perform these tests please let me know and we can proceed further.

Technician Brian V.

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