All Answers

Hello
Go to the link below to page #20 in the service manual link. This will give you an exact flow chart on how to diagnose and repair your issue for Dryer Heating.

Hello
There are a few possibilities of your specific symptom. Most common is an evaporator motor not running or defective. To do a complete diagnostic check go to the Service Manual link below and go to page #43 Section 8-3.

Hello
The 4- blinking lights is a Motor Locked / Over RPM. Go to page #102 in the link below for diagnostic steps. The control board and compressor diagnostics are on this sheet.

Hello
If the compressor was replaced recently, I would make sure it has a proper refrigerant charge. If it does a few more things can cause fluctuating temperatures.
1) Make sure the doors are closing properly and have good seals.
2) Make sure the interior lights are not staying on when the door is closed. You can have a bad door switch or sometimes a hinge cam riser that will not close the door switch and leave the light on.
3) Check for stored error codes in section 6-1 in the service manual link below. Follow troubleshooting guide on additional diagnostics.

Hi. We have found the drain pumps to be taking out the board on these units. Ran into the same thing multiple times . Put a board on and instantly fried it. One actually had a flame. Check the drain pump. It should be around 12-14 ohms I believe. The bad ones I’ve tested were reading at about 1 ohm.

Hello the P5 error

            If the control does not detect a valid water level sensor input for 30 seconds, or if the Max (Overflow) Fill Level in the control is set to 0 while in Run Mode, Factory Test Mode, or Overflow Mode, the control will enter Machine Error Mode. Check harness from user control to pressure sensor for damage and replace if necessary. Replace pressure sensor or user control if error persists. The control will first drain for 30 seconds to get out any water and then unlock the door. Unpower to clear error. See complete service manual link below.  

See video link added

Hello
You say there is a ice build up on the right side. Does the rest of the Evaporator have an even cold LIGHT frost pattern ? If it has a light cold frost pattern then I would replaced the Bimetal thermostat . It is located on the upper left side of the evaporator with two wires going to it. To see a picture of the bimetal go to page #43 in the link below section 4-3. Replace it and shut the unit down for 24 hours to defrost the ice with the the doors open.

Or does the rest of the evaporator have no frost and feel wet? This means you have a sealed system issue. Either a deflective compressor or a leak in the system. Either way its not worth the repair unless its under an extended warranty.

I would start with the service pointer . The thermistor in the service pointer needs to be tight on the refrigerant line and in the correct location. Follow the instructions in the service pointer. That will cause it to freeze up.

Hello Kris
There is a possibility of frost build up on your evaporator. I would look at the evaporator coil to see if there is any frost on it. If there is, the evaporator fan motor blade could be hitting the frost build up and causing noise. If that is happening order the part number kit below. See the directions below for the Service Pointer ( Frost on Freezer evaporator ) . If the blade is not hitting frost, you could have a bad blade that is stripped or a defective evaporator motor.

Correction:
Order service kit W11457241

Hello
The F0 E3 code is A Overload error. This Fault code is displayed when the main control detects a load size that exceeds the washer’s capacity OR basket cannot be turned.
This may signify:
• Load size exceeds washer capacity. Remove excess laundry, then restart the cycle.
• Mechanical friction on drive mechanism or basket (items stuck between basket and tub).

Hello
Can you please double check your model number Mvmb765fw3. It does not come up in our system.

Hello, see complete service manual link below.

Hello
See the service manual link below. Component access and removal is in section 3-1 on page 17.

Hello

  The compressor is a variable speed and could be on high speed if your condenser is dirty.  The condenser coils are at the top, behind the plastic control panel. Turn off the unit with the master switch behind the grille before you start cleaning. You have to remove the top grille by lifting and pulling out the center grille slat, which then exposes two 1/4 inch hex screws, which you remove to take off the whole grille.  Then you can see two Phillips screws at the top of the plastic control panel, remove them and look behind the control panel to see two more 1/4 hex screws at the bottom of the control panel that each hold a small bracket keeping the bottom of the control panel in place. Loosen but do not remove them. Open both refrigerator doors, and pull the plastic control panel forward. There should be two cables that will support the panel, so just let it hang. Now you can see the black coils on the left side. Since the doors are still open (you cannot close them with the panel removed), you have to work quickly to clean the coils. Reassemble by placing the control panel back in place, taking care to get the bottom part under the brackets. Then tighten/reinstall all screws. DON'T FORGET TO TURN ON THE MASTER SWITCH WHEN YOU ARE DONE. See the complete manual link on your model below. 

Hello, we have attached the technical service manual for you. It has all troubleshooting diagnostics and steps to guide your process.

Hello, there are 2 types of “ub” error codes for your washer. They are listed as “non-fatal” and as “fatal” unbalance errors and are listed as follows in the service manual for your model. 1st is Non-Fatal Unbalance Error : Machine has sensed load is unbalanced. Re-balance load and try spin step again. Do not adjust balance switch first. Most likely not due to unbalance switch mounting. If load is only one big item, add towels on opposite side to balance load. The 2nd is Fatal Unbalance Error : Wires to unbalance switch are broken or not connected. Switch may be stuck closed. Broken spring or unlevel machine causing tub to lean on unbalance switch. I have attached the complete service manual for you which contains all diagnostic steps and procedures for your model. I have also attached a link for your parts breakdown.

Hi, sounds like you could have a communication issue between the main board and user interface. I have attached the service pointer for this. The U.I.and harness would need to be replaced since you already replaced the board. Also, check that power connections coming in at the junction box etc. are good, not loose or burnt that could cause power to drop out. Check the harness in the door between the U.I and main board for and broken, pinched wires. I have attached the service manual and tech sheet also.

Hi. I could not find a video on this specific unit. I did find and attached the service manual. This has complete breakdown instructions. You will be able to access the control with the info in the manual.

Yes, it would almost always be the board at this point if neither igniter is getting power. Very common on Frigidaire ovens. Make sure the board is getting 120v and that no wiring is damaged. Double check your model number. Its not showing as a good model number.