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Hello

So the unit now has no power at all no display ? If you have any display at all verify and check the consumer’s power conditions. Make sure to check the operating voltage along with proper polarity and ground. If you have any display at all run the unit through the diagnostic mode and find any stored error codes. If you have no display at all you will need to start with the main PBA. See all manuals, parts lists and diagnostics links below.

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Sometimes If you have a very large load with tennis shoes or heavy items it can push the door open if the unit is overloaded. There is also the strike to hold it in place once the door shuts. The metal strike also places tension on the catch assembly. The opening and closing of the dryer door can weaken or compromise the strike and catch over time, allowing the dryer door to pop open prematurely on its own while drying your clothes. If this continues to happen , I would start by replacing hold catch assembly. Here is the part number # DC97-17991A Assembly Holder Lever.

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See all manual links below along with diagnostics.

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See service manual and fast track troubleshooting links below. Run the unit through the diagnostic mode on page #1 in the Fast Track guide. This will give you any stored error codes. Then pages #2 through #10 will tell you how to diagnose and correct the issue.

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       The (F10 Error)  Control has sensed a potential runaway oven condition. Control may have shorted relay, RTD sensor probe may have a gone bad. 

• Check RTD sensor probe and replace if necessary. If oven is overheating, disconnect power. If oven continues to overheat when power is reapplied, replace relay board and/or analog control board.

See complete service data sheet links below. Hope this helps.

Hello
With this symptom you could have many different possibilities. Go to the the service link below and go to page #45 section 4:19 to the service diagnostic mode. This will let you run through all of the tests and see what component may be failing. The main components you want to check are
1) Test #1 standard compressor test 2) #2 Defrost heater test 3) Test # condenser motor 4 Test #38 compressor 5) Test #30 Thermistor 6) Test #33 Ambient Thermistor 7) Test #15 evaporator fan motor . If you run these tests you will find out why the freezer section is not cooling.

Hello, we have attached the service manual for you. Refer to pages 21 & 22 for the flow chart.

See service manual link below.

Hello
On your dishwasher the “i30” is a aqua control error . You should perform a reset on your dishwasher and that could clear any false error codes. To reset your dishwasher you can flip the household circuit breaker off to the dishwasher for ten minutes. If that does not work you could be experiencing an issue with your water inlet valve . If you can get it to drain you might try putting a couple of pan of water into machine to clean it out reset by holding down speed button .Look at your spray arm to see if it is plugged up. There could be something blogging the water from getting into the arm. In most dishwashers, the arm only spins because water pressure makes it spin. If the suggestions above do not work, you can run the unit through the diagnostic mode with the service manual link attached.

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See all manual links below for your model. Assuming you are using the correct pans Copper, aluminum, and glass will not work on induction as the magnetic field will not be able to pass and there will be no generation of electric current in the cookware. Stainless Steel Cookware is compatible. Go to page #47 troubleshooting in the (Complete Service Manual) to run through diagnostics to determine your issue if its not the wrong pots & pans.

Hi. I have attached the tech sheet for you. Run the diagnostic mode and check for error codes. You can run tests for everything in diagnostic mode. Will the unit drain water if you add water to it? If not you could have a blockage or a bad drain pump. Make sure the basket is not tied up, can you spin it freely by hand? The lid switch or the motor could also be at fault. You will get pointed in the right direction once you pull some error codes.

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See the service manual link below. If the flash is one second on and one second off that is normal standby mode. If its one long flash that would be a motor error. See the link below to put the unit into the field service mode to determine the exact error code. It will then indicate what area to address. Also look at the Service bulletin (Loose or Damaged Counterweight and Damaged Platform in Top Load Washers ) link .

Hi. To me it sounds more like a defrost issue with refrigerator evaporator. The ice builds up from the unit not defrosting properly then this blocks air flow. That is why the top of the refrigerator is too warm but the bottom is ok or too cold. With a leak you notice more so and 1sr that the freezer temperatures are too warm. So if your freezer temps ok, its a sign that issue is not a refrigerant leak also. There is a update with the defrost sensor on the refrigerator evaporator that causes this issue. I have attached the service bulletin that explains this update. I would also replace the sensor. The part number for the sensor is going to be determined by the last 2 digits of the model number. It will either end in 00 or 01.

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I have provided the complete service manual witch is 105 pages. It has everything from diagnostics to the refrigerant leak information that the technician diagnosed. If in fact you have a refrigerant leak you will need to find a company that does ( Sealed System repairs ). That company can come out and find the leak, in most cases its in the evaporator coil. They can replace the evaporator coil and correct the issue. Not many company’s do sealed system repairs as it takes a lot of training and equipment.

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There are a few possibilities. The first thing I would check is for the proper power supply into the unit. You want to make sure your outlet has 1) The correct power. 2) Your hot / neutral power is correct. 3) The outlet is properly grounded. You can get this Klein tester for $10.00 at this link below if you do not have a volt meter. If the outlet test properly. Then you will need to put the unit into the diagnostic mode to check for stored error codes. The instructions are on page #4 in the technician diagnostic’s guide link below. All of the fault codes are listed in this technician sheet to tell you the error and how to fix the problem.

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Go to page #49 in the troubleshooting link below. When the ( heavy & Smart Auto ) is blinking together it is a (Over-level water error). These are most common possible causes in this order.
1) Water supply valve defective.
2) Flow meter defective.
3) Main (PBA) defective.

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You will need go to page #29 in the service manual link and run through the diagnostic mode for stored error codes. All of the error codes will be on page #29 through #30 and will tell you exactly what the potential error may be. You could have a ( main PCB failure ) (Sub PCB ) or even a shorted keypad.

WH49X24834 is a GE factory part and what shows in our dealer look up by your model #.I have attached the link to searspartsdirect for you to view. The cost is $54.22

Hello, it is not uncommon that a small amount of water leaks from the tub seal and compromises the Platform & Bearing Retainer assembly. It is recommended that you also replace the mode shifter assembly as well (WH49X24834) as it only costs around $50 retail. (around $35 dealer cost) The tub seal which leaked
(WH02X10362) does come with the Platform & Bearing Retainer assembly. We have attached a couple of diagnostic information links for you.