All Answers

Hello
See manual link below for a for model #DLEX7600. They have not changed . Here are some vibration possibilities.
1) Make sure the dryer is on a solid base floor that is level.
2) Make sure the dryer is level, check leveling legs if not.
3) Check your drum rollers on page #74 in the link below. If the drum roller bearings are worn, the unit will vibrate. There are thee rollers that hold your drum.
4) If your blower housing assembly get impacted with lint, you will get a vibration from the blower wheel. See page #73 in the manual link below.

It seems the washer is detecting an off balance load which will cause the unit to attempt to rebalance the load. This extends the length of the spin cycle. It could repeat 3 or more times before finally ending the cycle. Since you already replaced the shocks and this happens with no load in the machine, you most likely have an issue with the bearings or basket. Especially since you said the unit will shake as it speeds up with no clothes in it. That would be somewhat normal with a load but it really should not do that with nothing in it. I have seen the baskets become more of an oval shape instead of circular. Pretty common on these to develope this issue. You can usually see this if you rotate the drum and watch in one area as it goes around the gap between the basket and tub will go from no gap to large gap instead of staying the same. The basket would need to be replaced. The “spider” on the back of the basket could have broke which will cause a lot of play in the basket. When you lift the front of the basket up you can see it, or the bearings going out. Those usually cause the unit to be loud in spin as well. Make sure the shipping bolts are not still installed through the back the machine as well.

This could be the splutch itself or the shifter actuator. You have to be able to determine the error code by the technician diagnostic and troubleshooting service manual we have attached. It explains the error codes and the corrective procedures.

Hello
Is this unit under 1- year old ? If so call GE at 1-800-432-2737, this should have a one year factory warranty. The 888 means the PC control board my be shorted and the display driver that shows what supposed to be a display is not working. You will most likely need a new board.

Hello
See the link below with your service manual & wiring diagram for a Frigidaire electric range model FCRE3052AW

Hello, I have attached a great all encompassing service bulletin for your issue.

Hello
* The C24 error is a freezer defrosting error.
Diagnostics: After separating MAIN PCB CN20 wire from PCB, resistance value between CN20-“6” ↔ CN20-“8” shall
be 63(230) ohm ± 7%.(Resistance value is varied by input power) 0 ohm : heater short, ∞ ohm : wire/ bimetal open Must power off) .

• C25 Error is a Fridge Defrosting Error
  Diagnostics :After separating MAIN PCB CN20 wire from PCB, resistance value between CN20-“6” ↔ “8” shall be 120
  ohm ± 7%. (Resistance value is varied by input power) 0 ohm : heater short, ∞ ohm : wire/ bimetal open (Must power off)

• The C40 Error is an Ice room Error .
  Diagnostics : Check the voltage of MAIN PCB CN20-“22″↔ “24: shall be between 7V~12V

• The C65 Error is Fridge Ice Room Heater Error – Make sure this heater is not shorted as it will trip the breaker
  Diagnostics : After separating MAIN PCB CN20 wire from PCB, resistance value between CN20-“19” ↔ “23” shall be 135 ohm ± 7%. (Resistance value is varied by input power) 0 ohm : heater short, ∞ ohm : wire/ bimetal open (Must power off).

See complete manual link below. Go to page #53 to run this unit through the test mode. This will give any stored error codes.

Hello
The (AE6 ) error code is The signals between the sub and main PBAs are not sensed because of communication error. Things to check.
1) Check the connector connections between the sub and main PBAs carefully.
2) Check for incorrect or loose connections, etc.
3) Remove the sub PBA C/Panel and check for any faulty soldering.
See all error codes and corrections on page #19 in the service manual link below. Also see (Manual test mode) page #34 in the test mode link that will show all stored error codes.

IF THE MOTOR WILL NOT RUN , COMPLETE THE CHECKLIST BELOW.

1) CHECK FOR POWER:
Advance the timer knob to the drain
increment. If the drain pump does not run,
check household safety circuit. If the drain
pump runs go to step 2.
2. CHECK FOR MOTOR MOVEMENT:
Turn the water off to the washer. Remove
electrical power from the washer and
remove the back panel. Remove the motor
drive belt. Reconnect electrical power and
set the timer to the start of the Regular wash
cycle and pull the knob out. If motor does
not rotate, check for a poor connection in the
timer line switch or door lock switch. If good,
and motor does not run go to step 3.
3. MEASURE VOLTAGES:
Remove the six pin plug from the speed
control unit. Measure the voltage between
pins 5 and 6 on the harness. If the meter
reads 0 check the connection in the timer
line switch or door lock. If the meter
reads 120 Vac .
See complete technician sheet link below for the next steps, if steps 1-3 do not correct your issue.

Hello
I have sent you a link below for technical diagnostics. Go through the top symptom ( dishwasher will not operate properly when turned on ) . The guide will walk you through the steps and give you suggested remedy’s.

Hello
See the link below. Once opened go to page #44 for instructions on the disassembly.

Hello
Yes, You will need to get a reclaimer and reclaiming tank along with a heat shield. See all three links below. No, you will not need to add any oil. Do not add any oil. The small amount of oil that dripped out will not matter.

https://www.marsdelivers.com/item/78931/Solder-Braze-Heat-Shield/

Hello
You can cut out the bad piece of copper tubing and braise in a new piece of copper tubing . If its 5/16 or 1/4 inch you can buy couplings so they have an exact fit. Just make sure you use sand paper to make sure the fittings are clean before braising. See video link below of braising samples.

Hello
Se the complete #98 page service manual on this product. If you cannot find the answer in the troubleshooting section you may want to call LG direct at 1-800-243-0000.

Hello
See link below to the training manual link. All error / fault cades are on page #6 .

Hello
We do not have a video on the wash basin disassembly. If you go to disassembly & reassembly link below, it will show you how the unit comes apart. Thanks

Hello
We have hundreds of GE refrigerator video’s on this website. You can search by. model, symptoms, or manufacturer. The model number G1E181SHCRSS you provided is not valid. Please double your model number and send over the correction. We can then get you the service manuals on the product. Thanks

Hello
See the links below. Start with going to (Test mode Error check page #44) link below. that should give you any stored error codes. Once you find the stored error codes go to troubleshooting to find error code and correction or fix. The 106 volts should not be an issue.

Hello
See the service manual link below for the LG made Kenmore sealed system repair on page #20. I would also check with LG and Kenmore for extended warranty information before doing this sealed system repair. They have had buyout programs and prorated assistance on many of these models. Here are their numbers to check.
Kenmore —- 1-844-553-6667
LG ————- 1-800-243-0000