All Answers

Hello
Can you please double check the model number and also give us the manufacturer (Whirlpool) , ( Maytag ) ext. We
do not have you model number listed.

Hello
By your explanation you have a sealed system issue. A sealed system issue is either a leak in the evaporator or a compressor failure. With your issue you will definitely need a technician that has the tools to complete sealed system repairs.

Hello
Are you getting any error codes ? If the unit is out of balance you will get an E4 error. Things to check on out of balance issues. See the complete diagnostic service manual links below.

• Make sure that the washer is set on a level surface. If the surface is not level, adjust the washer’s feet to level the appliance.
• Make sure that the washer is not placed on any other object.
• Make sure that the laundry load is balanced. During the spin cycle, if clothes are piled up on one side of the basket, it will stop due to out of balance condition. The unit will try to solve the problem automatically. If the washer cannot solve the problem in there be an issue with suspension assembly or balance ring.

Hello
If you have no gas to the top burners there are multiple possibilities. Go to page #53 , #55 & #61 in the troubleshooting link below and it will go through the diagnoses and remedy for your issues.

Hello
See the parts diagram on page #9. You should just have the #2 screws to remove and then slide the element out and remove the terminal connectors. On some models there is a small metal tab that will need to be bent upward to release the element.

F3E2 error
Possible Causes/Procedure – Unplug washer or disconnect power.
* If the water temperature sensor (NTC) value is out of range (23°F to 217°F [-5°C to 103°C]) during the water-heating step of the WASH cycle.
1) Make sure that connections to water heater & CCU (TH2 & HE2 cavities)
connectors are not broken or with wires detached, and that connector internal
pins are visible.
2) Check continuity from the water heater sensor (black wires) to CCU (TH2 cavity) connector.
If the continuity diagnosis failed, the Main Harness must be replaced.
3) Check the resistance of heating element. See page 7 in service manual link provided.
4) Check the resistance of the water sensor. See page 7.
5) Plug in washer or reconnect power.
6) Verify the washer operation by running the Diagnostic Test cycle. See page 5.
7) After the diagnostic test has finished, unplug washer or disconnect power and wait for 15 seconds.
If these steps are done and you still have issues. Go through the complete diagnostic mode in the service manual.

Hello
See the technician diagnostics manual. It sounds like it is a defective display but run it through the diagnostics mode to verify. See all manuals below.

Hello
Can you double check your model number and include the make of the appliance please. You model number does not come up in our system.

Hello
See related service bulletin’s and service manual links below.
Remove the evaporator cover to verify the gasket type is the correct version. The correct version should seal all of the gaps preventing any air leaks. Leaks will cause moist air to bypass the evaporator and accumulate frost. See service bulletin for complete details.

Hello
That is the correct manual for your refrigerator. I double checked on two other resource sites we have.
From the description you have given us, it sounds like you have a sealed system problem. We have seen 4 or 5 times already on this this model style that were only 2-4 years old and doing exactly what you describe. You need to pull the evaporator cover and see if you only have a big build up of ice at the evaporator inlet – I’m pretty sure that is what you’re going to find. If so, that will make the unit run too much and freeze the food in the FF section. It’s freezing the food because it’s running constantly trying to get the refrigerator to the correct temperature. A sealed system issue can be one of two issues 1) low on refrigerant. 2) Weak or insufficient compressor going bad.

Hello
See the technician diagnostic mode link sheet below. This will take you step-by step through the diagnostics mode. I have also provided the service manual troubleshooting guide. Go to section 4-1 for troubleshooting. There are no videos’ on this model at this time.

Hello
A plugged drain that is restricting or icing up the return air vent will cause that issue. See the technical data form listed below in the link.

Hello
It sounds like he may be talking about the motor pump drain blade. This is located in the link be3low on page #14. If that is the issue, the complete motor and pump needs to be replaced.

Hello
See link to service manual for model HLB5750 series. We do not have the 51 series service manual yet. I don’t believe they have changed much. This should give you a good reference. I think you are correct looking in the correct direction. Also see parts link.

Hello
There are a few things to try.
1) Unplug unit from power for 5- minutes to see if the board will reset. Plug in and if problem is still there go to #2
2) Make sure that keypad cable on main PCB is in plugged in all the way . If it is go to step #3
3) Make sure connector (CN06) on Main PCB or PCB board is plugged in securely. If still not working – Replace the main PCB board.

See service manual link below on page #38 for complete directions.

Hello
Are you sure you have the proper water pressure to the inlet valve. Lime and calcium deposits can cause low water pressure up to the valve and sometimes in the valve internally. If you have good water pressure through the valve go to the Technician Diagnostics Sheet page three and run the diagnostics. See all manual links below.

Hello
We have found that low ice production that is slow or intermittent is caused by the ice fan motor Part number: WR60X10330. Ice blockage starts developing around the fan restricting air flow to ice maker compartment. Things to look for is Evaporator cover popping out place due to ice pressure build up.

Hello ,
You have two possibilities that will cause your issues.
1) You may have a sealed system issue. That would be a refrigerant leak or a defective compressor that is causing your evaporator not to get to the -10 degrees. You would need a technician to diagnose this issue.
2) This is a LG built unit. LG has had issues with the evaporator cover causing excessive moisture and icing around the fan motors. If that is your issue, you will need to order the evaporator cover, the freezer icemaker fan motor and the freezer evaporator fan motor and all the covers to keep the fan motors dry.

Hi. That is strange that the voltage is showing 240 from L2 to N only when the dryer is plugged in. Check your power at the terminal block as well. Maybe it’s burnt up there. You most likely have an electrical issue in the house and it only shows when the circuit is under a load. ( plugged in). I have seen this before, but the issue could also be something shorted with in the dryer that is not causing the breaker to trip. Be careful as the cabinet may have voltage if this is the case and you could get shocked. You could check for continuity from each leg of the power cord to ground (with the unit unplugged). You should not have continuity from either leg to ground.if you do you have a short somewhere in the dryer. First thing I would look at is the element. If the element shorted out, it most likely caused one of the fuses to blow and thats why it won’t start.

Hello
Are you asking about the water dispenser shutting down ? The water valve supplies water to the ice maker and water dispenser. If it is the dispenser assembly go to section 3-7 in the service manual. It sounds like have a dispenser switch issue.