All Answers

That is an overheating error code 1. Check gas supply pressure. 2. Check for proper gas conversion (LP/NG) 3. Check temp sensor. 4. Check main PCB for damage or miswire.

2E is a over/low voltage error.

We cannot find the specific error codes that you listed for your model number. However We did find that error code ending in numbers 51/52/53/54/55/56 as follows:
Element temperature sensor failure ID1/ID2.
1- Verify induction temperature sensor is connected properly at B71 or B81 as per wiring diagram.
2- Verify the inductor temperature sensor is installed properly and not damaged (measure approx. 100K Ohms at room temperature).
3- Replace induction generator housing ID1, ID2 I have attached the factory Service Data sheet specific to your exact model with all wiring diagram, error codes, and diagnostic procedures.

EOE is a door lock error. 1. Check door lock wiring and check for 120 VAC to door lock motor 2. Check wiring on main PCB. 3. Check door lock motor resistance. 4. Inspect door latch assmbly.

That error code you are getting indicates a water supply issue.

The nd error code indicates a drain error. I would first start by checking for issues with the drain hose. After that check the pump for blockages or damage.

Hi. I have attached the tech sheet with wiring diagram for you. If you have power to the control board and it is not lighting up the control is faulty.

Hi. I have attached a service manual for a similar unit. This is the only manual I could find that was close to your model. Was this the same one you already have? These units have a tech sheet under the console, unless it was removed by someone.

Hi. Check your light bulb/light socket and door switch for the light bulb flickering. Make sure your plug and outlet have a good connection and have proper voltage. If you installed a new defrost timer, it may be in defrost. most timers are set in defrost new out of the package. They do make a ticking noise. this is normal. You can advance the dial on the defrost timer to advance it out of defrost and they unit should start to run as long as your t-stat is set to on.

Hello
See service manual and wiring diagram links. If you have already replaced the door lock then your issue must lie within the main PCB assy. Part# 137006000. If you are testing from pins on the J2 connector you are supposed to have continuity when the door is closed. The circuit will break when the door is opened.

Hello
See the service manual link below.

Hello
The TE error is heating sensor error . This error could mean you either a bad DRUM THERMISTOR or the HEATING ELEMENT. See technician sheet link for model series 769.3152. Its not the exact manual, but its the closest one we currently have in our system. Hope it can help.

Hello
Please see the service bulletin link. It sounds like this could be your issue, its a very common problem.

Hi. It sounds like you could have a door switch issue. Try pressing start with the door closed to be sure that does not change anything. I have attached the service manual for you. page 44 has diagnostic and error codes. Check to see what error code you have stored. I have seen a couple of these with bad door latches. I also attached repair videos for a similar model.

Hello
You may have a cracked spider in the drum. Bent drums are very common on Samsung. See Fast Track diagnostics manual link below.

IE indicates i freezer sensor error.

The error code you are getting indicates the unit is in demo mode.

It could be one of the fan motors or the turntable motor. You can usually turn the turntable setting off which would verify if it’s that or not. Magnetrons and Transformers will both make loud humming noises when they fail but you usually will not be getting any heat when this happens. Transformers will usually also have a bad smell to them like an electrical smell when they are bad. There is no positive way to test a magnetron. Most of the time they test good when they are faulty

Hi. I have ran in to this issue with these units a couple of times now. I did not get banging with any of mine. They would attempt to spin with or with out clothes and give the UE error. mine did not have water in the unit when it attempted to spin. The washer should have drained the water before it attempted to spin at a higher speed. If there is still water left do you have a drain issue? It would throw a drain error though. I’m not sure what information you got 2 years ago from us or recall a video with rubber bands. Have you seen the service pointer for this? I have attached it for you. Verify your model and serial number for the pointer. It will explain the issue and solution in the pointer. Like you had mentioned, the pointer talks about replacing the rotor or control board depending on model /serial range and after running some tests. The control board has new software built in so that it will not recognize an off balance load as easily. The old software is too sensitive to this. I noticed on the last one I had that the rotor was loose. not the nut that holds in on but the rotor it self had separated and was making a little noise as it rotated. The cust did not end up haveing any work done so I did not get to verify a repair worked but through the testing in the pointer it said to replace the rotor as well.

Here is the manual.