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Located and downloaded service manual for you.

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See the technician service manual link below. There are many possibilities for a partial no cool. I would look at the evaporator coil to see if you have an even frost pattern across the coil. You should be getting zero to +5 degrees in the freezer section and +38 to +44 degrees in the fresh food section. This is the only information available on this model we have in our database. Matt Ace technician

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Go to page #44 in the service manual link below for your model. I would run through diagnostics for error codes. This issues could be the Main PBA or the door lock switch. Matt Ace technician

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Go to page #25 in the technician manual link below to get the diagnostics and fix for your issue. Matt Ace technician

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Go to page #30 in the ( Technician service manual ) link below. This will give you step by step detailed directions on how to dissemble the water dispenser. I have also added three service recall bulletins. Matt Ace technician

O.K., this is not an easy one. Just to be sure try the coat hanger again (pulling from RIGHT TO LEFT ) try to unlatch again. If no success, try to engage a self clean cycle and then about 2 minutes in try to cancel the self clean cycle and see if that will unlock the door. If that doesn’t work you will have to find something more rigid to hook on to the latch and pull hard from right to left to unlatch. You will damage the lock assembly in doing this and then the lock motor/latch assembly will need to be replaced along with the lock solenoid.This is definitely a bummer of a situation with no other alternative . Also attached is the tech sheet for your model.

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We have seen the heater cause this issue. When the heaters go bad they will sag after they heat up and short out causing the thermal fuse to blow. Disconnect the heater and run the unit for 30-45 minutes to see if the fuse blows. See complete training manual link below.

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See the technician diagnostic sheet. I would run through diagnostics.Matt Ace technician

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See the technician diagnostic sheet link below. The ( PF ) error is a power failure error. Do have proper power to the unit ? Check your voltage from the outlet to the unit control block and to the control board. Matt Ace technician

Hi. I have attached a pointer for you on the custom control, as well as another pointer that may be useful and the tech sheet with wiring diagram.

Hi. I have attached the diagnostics for your unit. Make sure you do not have a temperature issue. It is odd that resetting the board will get it to work for a week. I think you have a faulty ice maker. Make sure you water flow is good to the ice maker and no ice jams are happening. I see many Samsung ice makers fail. Could possibly be a board issue , but I have not seen a board fail for an ice production issue with Samsung. Check for any error codes in the diagnostics.

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See service information link below. Matt Ace technician

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See manual links and parts breakdown..Matt Ace technician

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Can you verify your model number. We do not show this in our system. Thanks Matt

Unfortunately this is a very serious issue with a straight forward repair. F01 means that your main relay control board inside the control panel has an internal short and needs to be replaced. This is not something you can just reset. The main rectangular boar inside the control panel just needs to be ordered and replaced to resolve the issue. Depending on the exact model number (located on a sticker just inside the door way), the part is about $200-300 so it’s not a cheap repair at all I’m sorry to say.

Hi, my name’s Doug and maybe I can help you. Have you tried pressing and holding the energy saver button on the touch panel for approximately three seconds. This should unlock the control. If it doesn’t, try holding it longer, maybe 7 to 10 seconds. Hope this helps. Also you can unplug the refrigerator for several minutes and then plug it back in. It might reset the control. If that doesn’t do it you probably need a new control board.

So unfortunately this means that one of your door switches has failed. There are 3 door switches and usually the bottom one is the one that fails, but you’d need to remove the control panel of the microwave and test the switches to know for certain which switch is bad. Below is a link to a video that shows you how to test the actual door switches inside your microwave to know which one to replace. Now access on your microwave may be slightly different, but it’s essentially the same and testing the switches is the exact same as the video. Just determine which switch is bad and replace it. Then you should be good to go again.

Unfortunately E01F01 is a very serious error. It means that you have an EEPROM short in your main control board called the CCU. This is not something you can just reset. The CCU will need to be ordered and replaced and it’s located in the upper front right corner of your washer. To access, you need to pull the washer forward and unplug it. Remove the screws coming in from the back of the top panel and then the top panel will pull straight back, up, and off. Now you can see the CCU mounted to the right side wall in the front right corner and the part itself is all plug and play.

OK so that’s a problem. It should have no resistance at all. So this is really a major issue and means that your bearing has went out. The entire rear outer tub as well as the inner basket would need to be replaced because the inner basket has the shaft attached to it that goes through the bearing and the shaft gets damaged when the bearing goes out. Often times when this issue occurs people choose to replace the unit as it can be an expensive repair.

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See the service manual link below. Matt Ace technician