All Answers

So unfortunately this means that one of your door switches has failed. There are 3 door switches and usually the bottom one is the one that fails, but you’d need to remove the control panel of the microwave and test the switches to know for certain which switch is bad. Below is a link to a video that shows you how to test the actual door switches inside your microwave to know which one to replace. Now access on your microwave may be slightly different, but it’s essentially the same and testing the switches is the exact same as the video. Just determine which switch is bad and replace it. Then you should be good to go again.

Unfortunately E01F01 is a very serious error. It means that you have an EEPROM short in your main control board called the CCU. This is not something you can just reset. The CCU will need to be ordered and replaced and it’s located in the upper front right corner of your washer. To access, you need to pull the washer forward and unplug it. Remove the screws coming in from the back of the top panel and then the top panel will pull straight back, up, and off. Now you can see the CCU mounted to the right side wall in the front right corner and the part itself is all plug and play.

OK so that’s a problem. It should have no resistance at all. So this is really a major issue and means that your bearing has went out. The entire rear outer tub as well as the inner basket would need to be replaced because the inner basket has the shaft attached to it that goes through the bearing and the shaft gets damaged when the bearing goes out. Often times when this issue occurs people choose to replace the unit as it can be an expensive repair.

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See the service manual link below. Matt Ace technician

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I have provided the technician diagnostic sheet. My thought if you have normal voltages to the auger motor, it may be intermittently tying up or you have a bad motor ground.

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I have provided the service manual for your model. The custom control kit consists of two gaskets, an
infinite switch and instruction sheet, I have provided the bulletin link below. We have not done this conversion, so we do not have the answer on the infinite switch. Matt Ace technician

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Can you double check the model number. It does not show in our system.

Thanks

HI. The burners are not controlled by the control board. Power for the switches does not go through the board. You will only have the burner switches and the burners with the wire in between. L1 and L2 run through each switch from one another, so you could have a faulty wire somewhere that could cause them all to stop. I would be looking for damaged wiring first. You can check each burner element for continuity and also your switches if it comes down to it. Each burner also has a temperature limit switch built into them. This is basically a fuse that will trip if temperature gets too high at the burner. Strange to have them all go at once though. You can make sure you have 240 going to your burners. If the oven works we know the unit must be getting 240V so it would come back to a wiring issue. Check your terminal block where the power cord attaches to the unit for damaged wiring as well. I have attached the tech sheet for you.

Hi. The F3 E2 error is for the microwave temperature sensor:

Temperature sensor opened (microwave)

1. Disconnect power or unplug oven.
2. Check microwave sensor connection.
3. Measure sensor resistance (280k Ω at 70° F [21° C]; 1k Ω at 392° F [200° C]).
4. If resistance is not valid replace sensor.
5. If sensor resistance and connections are good, then check for welded-closed relays
   on the control. If relay is shorted, replace control

I have attached the tech sheet for you.

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See the service bulletin on the Ignition harness. It sounds like you may have a bad ground or harness. Also see the wiring diagram list for your model. Matt Ace technician

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The LED lights and dispenser should not linked. The led lights have a power board # W10804160 and light board assembly #W11205083 . The dispenser on the technician sheet has tests #22, 23,and 24 you need to check to see if you have any error codes. There is also more information on the Job Aid on page #33 for the dispenser functions. Matt Ace technician

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See the technician service diagnostic link below. Matt Ace technician

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See the manual link below for the #NE599N range. Go to page #60 for troubleshooting the E-84 error code. This will give you step by step instructions and voltage checks on troubleshooting the inverter board. Matt Ace technician

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You will need to leak check ALL gas fittings from the front of the range near the gas valve to the back to the flex gas connection and any exposed gas pipe fittings. We check with an electronic leak detector and florescent soap bubbles. Also make sure this unit was not converted from natural gas to LP or reversed, a wrong orifice or conversion can case high CO levels. I have provided the LP ( Propane ) conversion instructions for this model so you can verify the orifice size for natural gas as 1.68 and it will have a ( N ) stamped on it for natural gas . The Propane orifice head will have a .99 orifice opening and have an ( L ) stamped on it for LP propane gas. We have seen propane converted units hooked to natural gas and reversed. If we cannot find any leaks or issues with the appliance, we advise them to call a home inspection company. Most home inspection company’s are certified in Co detection and have the best up to date CO detection equipment. We then do not charge the customer anything, these are rare situations and we do not want the liability.

            The U.S. Standards for CO levels are at a maximum of 35 ppm of CO for 1-hour exposure (this should not be exceeded more than once per year). Maximum of 9 ppm of CO for 8-hour exposure (not to be exceeded more than once per year).

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The model number #ECS100XT does not come up in our system We have a Whirlpool stand alone ice maker video series , see link below. Matt Ace technician

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Sorry we do not have many resources on this specific model number. Just a parts breakdown only. Matt Ace technician

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Go to the manual link below and go to page #64 for the ice maker diagnostics & troubleshooting page. You will be able to test fill and check the solenoid. Matt Ace technician

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See the service manual links below and also see the Service bulletin Fascia Heater Kit. If your fan is not running normal you will need to check the evaporator coil for frost build up or a possible starved coil. You will then need to run the unit through the diagnostic mode.

If you have power but it never gets hot them you have 2 thing that could be bad normally. The most common is the diode that feeds the magnetron is bad or the magnetron itself. The diode is $10 or less the magnetron is considerably more. Almost always it is a blown diode though.