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My Whirlpool washer is a top loaded with no agitator and is about 5 years old. Lately we’ve noticed that the clothes are left very wet. The washer drains and spins. I was able to get a code from the diagnostic of F7 E1 which apparently means almost everything LOL. When I do the tachometer test, the basket spins freely without any noise (like bad bearings) and the lights on the washer move with the speed of me turning the basket. I ran a calibration test and heard the washer spinning smoothly at one point, but I eventually had to stop the calibration because after a while it was violently shaking.

Replacing the machine’s actuator/shifter, capacitor or suspension springs doesn’t seem to be a major task. But I don’t what to do next to determine the actual cause. I’d hate to spend more money on parts than I need to.

Thoughts?

Thanks,
Matt

Model Number
WTW5000DW0
Request Resource Materials
Service diagnostics guide
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Hello
The F7E1 Error is a Basket speed fault error. See page #7 in the technician sheet link below. Also see the the service pointer bulletin link below on (Wet Clothes) . Matt Ace technician

  • Brian, isn’t the auto test cycle the same as the drain and spin cycle or, are you saying just do a drain and spin cycle like we’ve been doing when the clothes are so wet? At this point I’m tempted just to order she shifterand put it in. Other videos I’ve seen seem to point to that part.
  • I was saying to run a drain and spin to monitor proper operation and see if it gives an error code. It runs longer than the auto test mode. I’m thinking the shifter at this point.
  • I replaced the shifter and that wasn’t it. I haven’t done any laundry yet, but the auto test cycle still sounds the same where the basket starts to run for a second about 3 times. I’m assuming the basket would normally just run. I did a Rinse and Spin and a Drain and Spin and both end up stopping with the Lock light flashing. The only way I can get past it is to unplug the washer. Thoughts?
  • I un-canceled the service call I had for Monday. It’s $90 and if I want them to go through with the repair they only charge for the repair (I’m sure it includes the diagnostics but…). With $20 to ApplianceVideo.com and $60 for the part, I’m in it for $80 as is but we need the washer.
  • When the washer stops with the lid lock flashing, it is giving an error code. This will be the most recent error code stored in the diagnostics now. If the shifter did not take care of it your basket may not be moving freely. You could have bad bearings or something stuck between the inner basket and outer tub, each of which will cause drag on the basket and cause the error code. Other than that, it could have bad wiring or control board
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