All Answers

Hi. I have seen bad shocks cause this. Make sure your shocks are good. Push down on the tub and let go, the basket should come back up and stop, it should not bounce. Just like shocks on a car. Also when the tub bearings get bad enough it will cause this error code. You could have a basket that is not floating up for agitation or not floating back down and engaging for spin. The basket could be sticking on the bearing shaft. Also your Hub could be stripped or damaged that connects the basket to the bearing shaft. If all of that checks good then you are only left with either the wiring harness or control board.

Hello
See complete diagnostic links below for your model. Matt Ace technician

Hi. I have attached the service manual for you. I would start by replacing the sensor even though it tested good. I find the sensor to be the issue and not the board. To force a defrost unplug the unit and place a jumper wire between Line and Defrost at the 3 pin connector on the control board. It should say LINE and DEFR on the board at these terminal. Then plug back in and as long as your heater and Defrost t-stat are good the heater will come on.

Hi. The idler pulley could be seizing up, which could cause slow basket rotation. These idler pulleys are common to fail. Does the drum spin freely by hand? Also check your drum rollers to see if they are seized up. If the basket spins freely by hand, your could have an electrical issue, that is causing the motor to not get enough voltage. Check your incoming voltage to the unit and if that checks good I would test it out of the control to the motor. The control could be faulty. I have never seen and electrical issue cause this so this would not be very likely. I have attached the service manual on this unit for you.

Hi. I have attached the service manual on this unit for you. I have seen many sealed system issues with theses units. It is either a faulty compressor or a leak in the system. From some research I have done it appears the issue is the compressor. I have never gone any further into diagnosing the issue because everyone I have ran into ends up having a warranty on the sealed system from the manufacturer. To find out what the issue is you would need to tap the sealed system to see what your refrigerant pressures are. This will determine weather it is a leak or a faulty compressor. If a leak is found you would need to install a U.V. filter drier and recharge the unit. Then when it leaks back down again come back and find out where the dye is with a black light to find your leak.

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See sevice bulletin links below. Its most likely the evaporator fan motor freezing up. See link below for correction. Matt Ace technician

Hello
See video on fresh food evaporator replacement. Matt Ace technician

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See technician manual link below. The only error I see on the technician list is the ( C5) Error. It does not show a ( 5) Error. The C5 error is a ( Test the heater element ). See complete disgnostics sheet link below. Matt Ace technician

Hello

Do you have any error codes ? See complete diagnostic link below. Matt Ace technician

• Make sure there is power at the wall outlet and proper voltage and polarity.
  ■ Has a household fuse blown or circuit breaker tripped? Was a regular fuse
  used? Use a time-delay fuse.
  ■ Is dryer vent properly installed and clear of lint or obstructions?
  ■ All tests/checks should be made with a VOM (volt-ohm-milliammeter) or DVM
  (digital-voltmeter) having a sensitivity of 20,000 Ω per volt DC or greater.
  ■ Resistance checks must be made with dryer unplugged or power disconnected.

DIAGNOSTIC: Door Switch
Opening the door should cause a beep and an alphanumeric number to be
displayed. Closing the door should cause a beep and to be displayed.

DIAGNOSTIC: Moisture Sensor
1. Open the door and locate two metal strips on the face of the lint screen
housing. Using a wet cloth or one finger, jointly touch both strips.
➔ If a continuous beep tone is heard and an alphanumeric number is
displayed on the console, the sensor is OK.
➔ If a continuous beep tone is not heard, or if a continuous beep tone is heard
before touching both moisture strips, go to step 2.
2. Check to see if there is water in the dryer around the moisture strips.
➔ If no water is present, go to TEST#5, page 7.
➔ If water is present, wipe the strips off with a dry cloth and repeat step 1.
➔ If wiping the strips does not stop the beeping, run a timed dry cycle for 2
minutes to dry out the drum, then repeat this diagnostic test.

DIAGNOSTIC: Motor, Heater, and Console ID
Close the door. Press the Start button. The motor and heater will turn on, and the
display will show one of the following console error codes . A0 A2 A4 A6 A7 A8 A9 AA AC A5

Hello
Are you sure it is coming from the ice maker? Check the connections to the inlet line supply to the dispenser and ice maker. Whirlpool had this exact issue and it was caused by a leak at the water line coupling coming in to the dispenser. If that looks good I would remove the ice maker and ice and run the unit through the harvest mode. You can then see it possibly overfilling. See other overfilling possibilities below and forced harvest mode. Go to page #64 in the manual link below for other icemaker diagnostics. Matt Ace technician

Over filling possible issues
1) Check to see if the house water supply is 40 and 120 psi.
2) Is the icemaker fill tube frozen? Check the fill tube heater s electrical
resistance.
3) Check all water line connections. Including the ones to the water valve.
4) Check for Kinked water lines.
5) Check the filter in the refrigerator to make sure it isn’t plugged.
If it is plugged change the filter.
To harvest ice maker to force water to supply to the ice tray, or check
icemaker’s condition press and hold the FILL Key for about 3seconds. In the test mode, The icemaker will run through
stages step by step.

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The valve part number is #134210800. See parts breakdown and all service literature related to you model to help you with this repair. Matt Ace technician

Hi. You will need to remove the hoses and the one screw securing the valve in place from the back of the machine. Then you will need to remove the front panel and top pane/lid of the washer to be able to get to the valve in side the machine. I did not find any videos for this repair. I did find a video on the lid lock for this unit. It shows how to remove the front panel and lid. This video is attached.

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See the service bulletins related to your model. Also see parts breakdown and service maniual for the ( VGC) Series. We do not have a manual on your exact model but we have the exact parts breakdown and service bulletins. The single oven manual is very close to your double oven and should help with diagnostics. It starts on page #12 in the manual. Hope this helps. Matt Ace technician

Hello. I have attached the service manual for you. You can run a manual test cycle and run the drain pump in this test mode. Have you checked the pump or hoses for a clog? If the pump is running, but not draining water out you have a clog or bad drain pump. See what happens in the test mode. You could have an issue with the pressure switch or pressure hose, but I would think you would also have an issue with the water level . Possibly a weak really at the board that is cutting in and out. I have seen weak relays before but not on this style washer. Does voltage stay constant as the drain pump turns on and off.

Hello. I have attached the service manual for you. You can run a manual test cycle and run the drain pump in this test mode. Have you checked the pump or hoses for a clog? If the pump is running, but not draining water out you have a clog or bad drain pump. See what happens in the test mode. You could have an issue with the pressure switch or pressure hose, but I would think you would also have an issue with the water level . Possibly a weak really at the board that is cutting in and out. I have seen weak relays before but not on this style washer. Does voltage stay constant as the drain pump turns on and off.

Hi. I have attached the service manual for you.

On the Thermador oven it requires the O.E.M. part or you will continue to have issues. The Electrolux igniter is not a correct replacement, although it looks the same it is not a good substitute for the original part. The O.E.M. part number is 00415504 and is available at Sears parts direct for around $95 + tax.(retail) The proper igniter should solve this.

Hello
Are you getting any error codes ? If so go to page #19 in the link below to determine the error. You can search stred error codes by the following sequence below. Onece you find the error code you can identify the problem. The pages #22 throgh #40 will let you identify each part and diagnostics. Matt Ace technician
3 hours before the error : Press the Ice Plus button and Freezer button simultaneously
3 hours after the error : All errors, except for “Er rt”, “Er SS”,
“Er IS(except for Icing sensor)”, “Er gF”, “Er It” error, are displayed.
“Er IS” which is displayed without input of user is the error of Icing Sensor.

Hi. That’s strange that the unit did that after trying to put into a diagnostic mode. I have attached the service manual for you. Make sure you are getting proper voltage to the unit. My thought would be a bad main board as well, then maybe a bad User interface if the main board did not work. Have you replaced the main board and U.I.? Replacing the main board would reset anything strange that happened while trying to enter diagnostics also, so that still does not make any sense as to why the unit still will not come back on for you. There could be some electrical short somewhere in the unit. That’s a weird one.

Hi. The model number you provided is for a dryer. Please provide the washer model number.